Electrical queries

[lancialulu]

Excellent work Glyn! Of course if you want bright headlights just fit interposing relays as per the ebay kit (or something more discrete)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385828310833?hash=item59d528cf31:g:f9cAAOSwJu1kv5In&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8CzPZZgyFfHkSP0vBhoC8FE0NYchdCbxoZ6S7gq6mhjgMt58gAnmzVbn2fKWyjVr2d0FmDMViyosF34W6Gt3MfxpWpgBV6b6f1Fdc40EnTCwOH5L2cpyt3eiUyzb8GOID1xjifjU5kk9lUbvsCmMo1QenzNEk3PJJwZwVPAKLqRlMbpe%2FmneGG0HbcSnnaIRc5N%2BGUR2mjhmAX3yge3zvv8J44ErbZWR9Mph48aWSBlG%2FY5pBFjX1I87t1CdBeUoSDB6GuJ7KdDch%2BfzqoPmS7ekCG1wplsgXTUUjV5JZgZg6bBjrcjM4aCK7o%2FyKkf3AQ%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5yFrZeNYw

[GlynW]

Hey Glyn - daft question maybe, but you do have the cover for relay 31 don't you? 

Hi Norm, 
When I searched for CEAM on this Forum one of your old threads came up, so I can see you have already been here with your S3 Fulvia.  On that thread (https://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=9873.570), there were also questions about the wiring of relays 30 & 32.  When I dismantled my S2, I took notes on all of the wire colours and their destinations for each relay so will attach that now.  The pin numbers correspond to the relay diagram above.  I hope it is not too late to be of interest.
Glyn

[nthomas1]

That's a very useful chart Glyn!  I made sketches, both physical and logical, of each of my solenoids/relays.  Here they are for the outer light solenoid - the later version so a different design to yours but works the same way.   Between us we must have some useful documentation!

I have a spare CEAM solenoid like yours, but would be an expensive way just to get a cover - unless you wanted a spare mechanism as well.

[HBG]

Finally satisfied with my hazard light instalation. Had them working before with the Lucas switch but the switch kept releasing a touch leaving my indicators not working until it was pushed back in. I sourced a better switch but one that didn't quite work as a direct replacement. The new switch wouldn't separate the hazard connections to the indicators when not in operation which is required. The Lucas switch is entirely mechanical and when turned off keeps the flasher connection and the two wires to the indicators separate. The new switch wouldn't do this so I had to source a double contact relay too wire in. After a couple of issues (new switch being polarity sensitive and my flasher wired up the wrong way round) it's working.

Good job this is a hobby.....it's taken a heap of time. Might get the rear fog light installed ready for next winter!

[HBG]

The switch.

[nthomas1]

That's a neat installation Howard.  Worth all the effort!

[HBG]

Thanks Norm. For now I've tucked the wiring up behind the dash panel but will be happier when the relays are mounted some how. I'll see if I can find a suitable place to zip tie them on. The rear fog light which is next on the list will also have a relay to find a home for.

[HBG]

Educate me on the function of the ignition light.

When setting off in the car daytime the red light is mostly off or so dim that it can't be seen. At night, with the headlights (leds) and radio on the red light glows. After a while it dims, sometimes to the point I can't see it, othertimes it stays visible but dim. Also after a cold start when the car hasn't run for a couple of weeks and needed to crank for a while to start, the red light glows for a while.

What's happening here? Is the alternator not functioning properly? Is this normal or should I have the alternator checked? I changed the regulator for a solid state item a little while back.

The battery seems to keep its charge and the car starts every time.

Thanks.

[lancialulu]

The battery seems to keep its charge and the car starts every time.

Thats the main thing. I assume you have measured the battery volts when running (alternator check), which should be somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5v above 1000rpm.

The alternator light works on being always fed with battery volts (12) and has an earth path through the alternator rectifier circuit. When the alternator is charging the earth path sees nominal 12v or more) so does not have any volts across the bulb - in theory…..

[nistri]

The red generator light (S2 cars) is fed via a thin wire which decreases the current reaching the bulb even in standard conditions. This led to complaints about the red light on especially visible at night. Lancia actually issued an official note to change the bulb to get rid of this problem, although quite of number of owners chose to replace the wire with one of larger diameter (and therefore of lower resistance), thus solving the problem. In any case it is advisable to check with a multimeter that the alternator is working OK. This issue is not present in S1 Fulvias.

[HBG]

Tim, when I changed the regulator I measured a stable 14.5v at the battery.  If it is charging I should see no light? And an illuminated light when there is no charge? So when the light is on I should measure voltage again?

Andrea, what bulb was used in the change?

Thanks

[lancialulu]

As Andrea points out a thin wire from the bulb to alternator will give a small voltage drop across the bulb equivalent to say a 1.5v battery across the bulb dimly lighting it (only really noticeable at night). I wouldnt worry about it. You only need to respond when it is full on. You may have a lazy alternator/ dirty commutator that does not give out charge for a few seconds after starting up.

[nistri]

I regret to say I forgot the watt rating of the suggested bulb; if I come across it, I will send a message.

[lancialulu]

Specified is 3W. To reduce the glow it should be even lower - 2W?

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/903925-2w-12v-165ma-10mmx28mm-ba9s-miniature-lamp?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA8YyuBhBSEiwA5R3-EzVhC7pVxfdqmceqyktz-acDjxbZbFNCRCClmGdlFMPr6A-7x479choCvDsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[HBG]

Hope I haven't asked this already.

Early in my Fulvia ownership I discovered that the fuel guage, when below half a tank would move around rapidly with the attitude of the car. Braking or acceleration would have it swinging back and forth. Hit the brakes and the needle would drop and the red light come on. Quite irriating as it would be on and off all the time.

Now I have a situation where the light doesn't seem to come on at all. I'm reluctant to run the fuel right down to nothing to find out if the guage has somehow corrected itself. I've had the lamp holder out of the back of the dash and it tests fine.

Can someone explain how the low fuel warning lamp works electrically so I can test it?

Thanks.