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Author Topic: Electrical queries  (Read 1151 times)
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HBG
Senior Member
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Posts: 154


« on: 02 November, 2023, 07:48:37 PM »

Hi folks.

I'll be following Norms lead and fitting hazards to my Fulvia 3. I have the same switch and have a led relay on the way.

At the same time I want to add a rear fog light and make provision for front spots in the future.

The fog will have an led lamp with a draw of 0.35 amps, so will I need a relay for this? Could this be direct wired through a switch?

I'll be needing two switches and would like to know what you've used and where you've located them. Ideally the rear fog switch and the front spots will be similar switches matching the style of the car.

Thanks
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Wangler
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Posts: 245


« Reply #1 on: 03 November, 2023, 08:05:28 PM »

The purpose of a relay is to protect the contacts in a switch to reduce the need for heavy cables when high loads (i.e. amps) are used. A relay is simply a heavy duty switch activated by a light duty switch. The light duty switch works an electromagnet in the relay which is attached to the heavy duty contacts.

LEDs require remarkably small loads in automotive applications, therefore relays are not required for them. Remember that volts x amps = Watts, and itís amps that melt wires and damage contacts!

If your reversing lamp is LED, simply connect it into the existing wiring that feeds your existing reversing lights.
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Fulvia Coupe 1976
Fulvia Coupe 3 1975
HBG
Senior Member
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Posts: 154


« Reply #2 on: 11 November, 2023, 08:20:18 PM »

Any ideas on where to put the three knobs? Hazards, rear fog and future front spots?

Yesterday I fitted led lamps to the front headlights. Pleased so far but need a drive down an unlit lane to confirm. May also need to do some alignment.

I've noticed when driving at night that the ignition light glows a little. Can't see it in daylight, either because it's not on due to low load (headlights off) or the daylight is too bright. I took readings with a multimeter of the voltage across the battery with the engine running and found the voltage at about 15.something at idle and jumping about a bit up to 14.8 when revving. I'd opened up the original Ducellier voltage regulator some months ago and cleaned it up and all looked good but it seemed to be beyond its adjustment limit. As an experiment and in the interests of future reliability of a car that is driven distance I replaced the regulator with a solid-state item. The volts now read 14.8 at idle and 14.5 revving and are rock steady. Time Will tell if this makes any difference though the short night drive I had after seems to have the ignition light off. Not sure what, if anything, this proves.
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Jaydub
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Posts: 343


« Reply #3 on: 12 November, 2023, 07:55:10 PM »

  I would say that the voltage readings you have are slightly high, Normally you want to see 14.2v max, but remember always check charging rate with headlights on to see if the alternator is coping. Most of the time a glimmering  warning light isn`t a problem, just a slightly weak diode in the alternator.
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1600 HF. S2.
HBG
Senior Member
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Posts: 154


« Reply #4 on: 13 November, 2023, 09:42:20 AM »

Thanks John, I'll check with the headlights on, but now that the lamps are led they won't draw much current.

I'm still after inspiration for the location of hazard/rear fog/ future front fog light switches. Where to put them?

Another item I'd like to address is the headlight flasher switch. With side lights on or off the push button on the indicator stalk operates the dipped headlights, which are the outer lights. With the dipped headlights on there is no flash as the lights are already on. Has anyone attempted to make the flasher operate the inner main beam lamps? Seems to me that the wiring has to be altered, if possible, within the switch housing
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Jaydub
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Posts: 343


« Reply #5 on: 13 November, 2023, 08:04:16 PM »

 Hi Howard, I gave all this information to Norm Thomas regarding flashing inner lamps as well as outer, and he will have the information all written  as he is great at recording everything. All my diagrams are in storage as we moved house in July and my Fulvia is also at a friend`s house. Basically you need to fit a 4 pin relay. Trace the wire  that is switched by the H/Lamp flasher feed to the outer lamps and connect it to pin 85. Connect pin 86 to an earth. Connect pin 30 to a permanent battery (12 volts) feed. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the inner headlamps. That way they will all flash together. As I said, I don`t have my car so I can`t advise on the switch panel location.
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1600 HF. S2.
HBG
Senior Member
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Posts: 154


« Reply #6 on: 14 November, 2023, 08:58:52 AM »

Thanks John. I'll get the wiring diagram out and plan it on paper first. When splicing cables do you use a simple spade connector with insulation or the same in a plastic holder?
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lancialulu
Press Officer
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Posts: 4830



« Reply #7 on: 14 November, 2023, 09:25:12 AM »

I'm still after inspiration for the location of hazard/rear fog/ future front fog light switches. Where to put them?

Another item I'd like to address is the headlight flasher switch. With side lights on or off the push button on the indicator stalk operates the dipped headlights, which are the outer lights. With the dipped headlights on there is no flash as the lights are already on. Has anyone attempted to make the flasher operate the inner main beam lamps? Seems to me that the wiring has to be altered, if possible, within the switch housing

Re switches is your centre console populated with a switch either side of the central air vent. This is where my fog and hazards switches are. Some Fulvias have no switches here just a blanking "plug". Re headlight flashing this is a curiosity of rhd fulvia wiring. I would strongly advise against messing with the switch as it is very delicate. Better to wire in the inners with additional relay to come on as additional main beam so if you want to tell an on coming car they are on mian beam etc just go from dipped to main and back. General day time flashing is done with the little button....
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
Lancias:
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
1983 HPE VX
1988 Delta 1.6GTie
1998 Zeta 21.  12v
Wangler
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Posts: 245


« Reply #8 on: 14 November, 2023, 07:10:50 PM »

Thanks John. I'll get the wiring diagram out and plan it on paper first. When splicing cables do you use a simple spade connector with insulation or the same in a plastic holder?

The best thing is I have discovered for messing about with wiring, and seeing what works, are Wago connectors. They are absolutely brilliant, and if you donít mind how they look they can be pretty permanent too.
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Fulvia Coupe 1976
Fulvia Coupe 3 1975
HBG
Senior Member
*****
Posts: 154


« Reply #9 on: 14 November, 2023, 08:27:26 PM »

Thanks Tim. I'll do as you and John suggest which is to add a relay for the flashers.

Either side of the cabin vent on my car is a thumb screw of the same type used to hold the fuse box panel up. Behind the screw metal framing to receive the screws, so no chance of putting the switches there.

Think I'll make a steel bracket to attach under the ashtray. It will part fill the cubby space below which is a shame as it's a useful space but options are limited.

Must get on with the hazards - when out in rain and heavy traffic this morning, was wondering how vulnerable I'd be with a breakdown.

I like Wagos, use them at work but probably wouldn't leave them as a permanent feature on the car only because they don't match the original style.
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nthomas1
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Posts: 838



« Reply #10 on: 15 November, 2023, 05:08:40 PM »



Here's the hazard flasher that I bought, and pictures showing the bracket I made to fit it discretely under the right side of the dash.   I've also attached a diagram showing how I wired it in. 

With regard to switch positions, in my car I have three pull switches on the dash.  The first is to the right of the heater controls and is for the heated rear window, which I don't currently have connected.   The other two are either side of the heater vent underneath the heating controls.  The right one of these originally operated the inner headlamps.  It is now repurposed as a manual override for the radiator fan, as I have rewired the inner headlamps to come on with the outers.   The left one is not currently in use so can be repurposed at some time in the future if required.


* a - Ebay Kit.png (634.9 KB, 1756x798 - viewed 13 times.)

* b Bracket.JPG (821.52 KB, 1843x1382 - viewed 13 times.)

* c Fitted.JPG (922.38 KB, 1701x1855 - viewed 20 times.)

* d Wiring.JPG (707.81 KB, 1276x1297 - viewed 20 times.)

* x Push-Pull Switches.JPG (883.53 KB, 1559x1548 - viewed 15 times.)
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
HBG
Senior Member
*****
Posts: 154


« Reply #11 on: 15 November, 2023, 10:21:41 PM »

Hi Norm.

I considered that position but thought it would be in the way when reaching for the choke or bonnet release. Do you find it OK?

I've got that switch and was messing about this evening making up a panel for three switches, probably to be mounted under the ashtray. It's a work in progress, maybe a crackle black finish, not completely sure how ill fix it invisibly.


* 20231115_222043.jpg (3185.07 KB, 4032x3024 - viewed 24 times.)
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HBG
Senior Member
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Posts: 154


« Reply #12 on: 15 November, 2023, 10:25:37 PM »

That diagram is most useful. Thanks.
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nthomas1
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Posts: 838



« Reply #13 on: 16 November, 2023, 01:23:09 PM »

Howard - you asked about my hazard flasher switch interfering with choke and bonnet release.  My choke lever can still be reached easily with the hazard switch in place, though I rarely use the choke.  .My car is RHD so the bonnet release is on the left side so obviously not an issue.    Your solution with the three-switch panel in the console could work well.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
GlynW
Member
***
Posts: 32


Fulvia S2 1600HF (1971)


« Reply #14 on: 25 November, 2023, 02:48:46 PM »

Thanks for the details of your hazard flasher unit, Norm.  It is a very neat installation.

I have mounted additional switches for my rear fog light and auxiliary fuel pump on the floor, next to the handbrake, which are easy to reach while driving.  They are mounted on a flat plate which is screwed to the floor under the carpet (you can do without the plate, but there is a corrugation in the floor panel here which limits the position otherwise). 

The live wires from an additional fuse (installed in the fusebox) have been run under the carpet, but could probably also come in through the handbrake/gearbox tunnel.  Both loads are at the back of the car, fed by wires that run under the carpet and into the boot.  All very accessible and easily removed without visible marks.

Congratulations on your restoration too!

Glyn


* Additional_switches.jpg (974.09 KB, 1800x2400 - viewed 14 times.)
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