I finally have a Fulvia!

[IanC]

A bit of decent progress today in terms of moving toward starting the car.  It seemingly hasn’t run since 2001, so that combined with my luck meant it wasn’t going to be straightforward!  After removing the old distributor we fitted the new 123 version and got it set up once the timing marks were found.  A new Varta battery fitted, new plugs and leads and some fresh fuel into the tank.  Off we went.  Well, not exactly.  Turned over really well so that side is good but did not fire.  Checked spark at the plugs and it’s ok but the plugs were dry.  No fuel getting to the engine. Checked pump function by disconnecting the supply pipe into the pump and putting it into a cup of fuel, it sucked a bit but not much and not as much as expected.  Removed the pump which seems to be a Fiat item and tried working it off the car with a fuel supply and it didn’t work.  Is the pump pictured below the right pump and can there be issues with the push rod/actuating rod in terms of shortening with wear?  Thank you.  Ian

[Beckerman67]

 An original should look something like this:

 

[lancialulu]

An original should look something like this:

 

Sorry but that is an after market pump. Originals had an oval body made by Fispa stamped on the pressed steel lid. That one should work though. The push rod should protrude from the housing (I dont have the spec off hand but it is in the TD) and thickness of the gasket (s) may be an issue.

[nistri]

The pump fitted to Ian's car does not look right. I suggest to replace it. Ideally a second hand pump from S1 cars is the best as long as it is serviceable (with a removable clean filter). Otherwise modern aftermarket ones can be OK. However, while shopping for a pump at the Padua classic motor show, we noted that several new pumps (still in their boxes) had a very stiff or actually blocked mechanism that could not be moved by hand. Worth checking carefully what one buys. Andrea

[nistri]

BTW, the fuel pump should send out fuel at a pressure in the range 2-4 psi. Higher values give carburettor problems, Andrea

[Wangler]

May be worth buying one of these to play with. Cheap, effective and near enough the right pressure. Wouldn’t suggest permanently using it as your fuel pump, but a handy thing to have for testing.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323857045463

[fay66]

I fitted a replacement pump from Omicron about 20 years ago.
Today coming back from theTewin Car Show, there was a very strong smell of petrol.
When I stopped I could hardly believe my eyes as one of the brass stubs had pulled out of the pump body! Why now after 20 years?
I have RAC cover with my policy with Hagerty so I rang the help line, within about 25 minutes a RAC man turned up, and using chemical steel epoxy adhesive refixed the Stub into the pump body, and within 50 minutes from ringing the RAC, I was on my way home with the problem fixed.
Pretty impressive that!
But still puzzled why now?
Brian
8227

[IanC]

Thank you all again.  I’ve ordered a new one from omicron and it wasn’t expensive at £34.  On to the next challenge.  After taking off the old pump I noticed that the pushrod and that activates the pump had a burred end and thought I would remove it from the housing.  It wouldn’t come out. Could anyone please help with comments on how this should be done (I’m sort of hoping the answer isn’t “it should just pull out” because it won’t)

Thank you

Ian

[fay66]

Does anyone have any idea if the current price of the Esso synergy 97 or 99.
I've just rang my local esso shop/ Petrol station at Shefford bypass.
And no one seems to know, or is prepared to tell me how much they are charging, as they only display E10 and Diesl prices!
As it happens its the nearest place to me that sells E5  and where I normally fill up, but I know previously that it has always been pretty pricy.
Brian.
8227

[lancialulu]

Thank you all again.  I’ve ordered a new one from omicron and it wasn’t expensive at £34.  On to the next challenge.  After taking off the old pump I noticed that the pushrod and that activates the pump had a burred end and thought I would remove it from the housing.  It wouldn’t come out. Could anyone please help with comments on how this should be done (I’m sort of hoping the answer isn’t “it should just pull out” because it won’t)I am afraid it should pull out😧

Thank you

Ian

[IanC]

Can anyone help with my question above please regarding the fuel pump actuating rod. 

Thank you

Ian

[lancialulu]

Can anyone help with my question above please regarding the fuel pump actuating rod. 

Thank you

Ian

It should  pull out.... I thought I had typed that in my previous response. The cam at the other end may have burred it over. The arrangement is like a Chinese jigsaw inthat you have to pull the pushrod out before you can withdraw the cover over the oil pump drive/fuel pump camshaft

[IanC]

Thank you, I was afraid of that.  It’s stuck, probably due to burrs.  I will have another go using another method but don’t want to damage anything.  I guess part of the problem though could be that it is now too short to work effectively.  Interesting challenge so if anyone has figured out a way to remove a stuck pin then please let me know.

[lancialulu]

The push rod is a sliding fit in the support hole in the front cover. Depending on  the damage you may need a new front cover. This is something I have not come across Possibly the end has mushroomed if a fuel pump has seized but otherwise the load is low. S1 andS2 push rods are different lengths. I may have a spare push rod.... (and front cover)

[IanC]

Thank you again, useful.  I guess the simple thing to do is try the new pump to see if the rod is long enough to produce enough pumping effort.  If not then it needs replacing, obviously.  Thank you also for the offer of parts, I will see where we go once the pump is fitted.