Fulvia Fuse Layout & instrument panel lighting

[blueboxer]

Could someone please tell me what circuits each fuse covers from left to right (73/4 Fulvia Montecarlo). Nothing in the handbook and the fuse cover seems to be abbreviated Italian which google translate couldn't help with!
Did a search and a few posts about ratings but couldn't find anything that says what fuse1=, fuse2=, etc.
I can see a circuit diagram in the back of the handbook but haven't been able enlarge it to the point where I can actually see it!

[richardgcs]

There is a flowchart on Lancisti site, dont know if this is in LMC site. try  www.lancisti.net/forum/showthread.php?5150-S2-Coupe-Fuses&highlight=fulvia+fuse   
 

[richardgcs]

PS. entry no 16:23/6/2013

[blueboxer]

that's just what I needed. Thanks

[blueboxer]

One of the reasons I wanted to know the fuse layout was to trace a few things that weren't working.

One of these are the dashboard instrument lights. Turn signals, handbrake, main beam all work & illuminate on the panel but I'm struggling to get the instruments lit up.
I've changed the dimmer rheostat and have put a test probe on and confirm it is live.
I've also taken the instrument panel out, replaced all the bulbs and passed a live to some of the individual connections (I had to remove the red and white connector blocks to get the panel out).
When hooking up a temporary live feed, I've checked the back of each bulb holder with the test probe and confirm all appears good.
Obviously, I'm working in daylight and everything appears to test ok but I can't see any sign of illumination when I put everything back together. I would have expected to see some illumination of the dash lights. Could there be something I've missed or are the dash lights feint at the best of times?

[richardgcs]

as has been said many times , electrical faults are more often than not caused by poor earthing. also try by-passing the rheostat so you know you have a current. the lights probably wont very visible in daylight, they should be in the dark.

[blueboxer]

yes, your probably right. Checked the rheostat and all is well. Now have one dash light so others are likely still a duff connection somewhere. Going to remove the unit once again and be a little more thorough with the cleaning of the circuit board.

[stanley sweet]

For the future Omicron do a fusebox sticker in English and Italian which I have on mine. Also, don't hold your breath on instrument lighting. Yes, they light up, but more in the fashion of a WW2 bomber than a modern car. The brightest setting on the rheostat is probably equivalent to the lowest on a modern. You won't be needing sunglasses!

[DavidLaver]

Has anyone tried LED bulbs?

David

[blueboxer]

As a precaution, thinking that my efforts with the existing bulbs might end in failure I have ordered a set of led bulbs and what appears to be a very similar bulb holder from ebay.  I thought I'd either try and fit to the existing fitments in the instrument panel and failing that, rig up some alternative with a new feed.
I'll let you know how I get on. Suffice to say, I can't live with the WW2 Bomber lighting mentioned earlier!

[DavidLaver]

A "before and after" shot here:

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/upgrades/instrument-illumination-upgrade/

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/DashLEDCREEstdNewweb.jpg

Its also interesting to see that they do "heat and sound" upgrades as well:

http://www.rswilliams.co.uk/upgrades/heat-sound-insulation/

David

[davidwheeler]

Have to say, I prefer "before".  The leds seem too bright and definitely too white.   On the other hand, Fulvia lights are particulrly dim!

[stanley sweet]

Must say, I have a soft spot for my Lancaster's, I mean Fulvia's feebly lit instruments. To me it's part of stepping back into that era. Maybe the LED's turned right down might give an improvement but still look a bit period.

[blueboxer]

I've made some progress on this. I have managed to get all backlights working on the binnacle with the exception of the main beam blue light (next job tomorrow). As suggested, all down to bad earths. I have replaced the bulbs for leds and they are an improvement but still not very bright. That might be due to the speedo and rev counter not letting much light through. Certainly the indicators/headlamp & other warning lights are brighter. Overall, a big improvement on before which was the main objective.
I could improve the backlighting further by adding additional bulbs or perhaps even modifying the instruments to allow more light through but I'll probably leave as is.
At least I can now actually read the speedo and rev counter at night which before was impossible.

Next job will be checking the remainder of the wiring and then having a go at getting the door courtesy lights & under bonnet light working. Again, I'll probably use led.

[chugga boom]

havin just read this thread , I have a zagato in at the moment with similar faults, main cause is bad connections in the fuse box mostly corroded connecters and corrosion where the wire goes into the spade connectors , quickest solution I've found on the last 3 fulvia's has been to cut off every connection to the fuse box and relays, clean the wire where it goes into the new connector as this often corrodes under the pvc and everything works, all I've found in the past is that the faults generally spread to other electrical circuits and your for ever taking the dash apart, I will take a photo of what I've done and post it up over the weekend, sounds more daunting than it is and 1.5 full days (a weekend) you could sort it easily, I absolutely hate electrics but fulvias are pretty straight forward and if done right will last another 20>30 yrs , hope this helps and good luck j