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Author Topic: Zagato reassembly  (Read 6765 times)
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ben
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« on: 29 April, 2013, 03:00:54 PM »

Having had it painted I started putting my S2 1600 Sport back together recently with the vague intention of getting it to the 50th celebration. Slim to zero chance of meeting the time frame but I am trying to keep it moving along inspired by Robins Fanalone that is at a similar stage.

Trouble is that I took it apart about 20+ years ago and made no notes!

So---Can anybody tell me if there should be any sort of "gasket" between the alloy castings that carry the front suspension etc and the steel subframe onto which they sit and are bolted? I seem to recall seeing signs of electrolytic corrosion at the interface when I stripped it down.

        Also is it possible to get the screen back in without taking the dash out.  And am I deluding myself thinking I can re-use the old rubber?

        Finally are the front brake calipers (twin-pot Girling) ameniable to a DIY rebuild and if so where to go for the seals?

                             Many thanks
                                                  Ben
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Dilambdaman
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« Reply #1 on: 29 April, 2013, 06:36:44 PM »

Hi Ben,

Nothing on our Fanalone between the alloy struts and the steel sub-frame except a coat of paint.

The calipers usually corrode badly during a long period of inactivity but we had inserted stainless steel liners in the front pots 15 years ago and they are still fine. The rears were badly pitted so we had them lined with stainless steel this time round. Don Cross recommended Steve of GPA Engineering in Wilmslow who did an excecellen job on them, in very quick order and for a very reasonable price. His telephone number is 01625 527062. Rubbers are available on Ebay or from Omicron.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Robin.

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Robin Lacey 3222

1932 Dilambda
1992 Y10 GTie
2012 Delta Mk3
Richard Fridd
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« Reply #2 on: 29 April, 2013, 07:27:09 PM »

Thanks for the GPA contact info Robin. I will call Steve to disscuss my PF brake piston assemblies. I think the Girling brakes sometimes need new pistons once the old ones become corroded. Richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd                                                                      Happy Lancia, Happy Life
Dave Gee
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« Reply #3 on: 29 April, 2013, 08:47:31 PM »

Ben
I am in a similar position - I was trying to build a S2 sport in a similar time frame, (see S2 Rebuild on this forum...needs updating, I know!). Windscreen rubbers are available from Italy cheaper than in the UK and can be got within 2 weeks. You should be able to put the screen back in without taking the dash out. I stripped and rebuilt my own brake calipers. Be careful not to lose the small o ring between the two halves of the caliper as it is difficult to find replacements.
If I can be of any other help, please contact, though do remember, this is my first Fulvia rebuild (but not my first Lancia rebuild).
Regards
Dave
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phil-m
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« Reply #4 on: 29 April, 2013, 08:59:50 PM »

There is no gasket between the subframe and the aluminum suspension castings although a smear of copperslip would not go amiss. As for the dash, you can fit the screen in afterwards, and yes you are deluding yourself you can reuse the rubber! used seals look awful on a freshly painted shell plus will probably split at the corners on refitting.
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davidwheeler
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« Reply #5 on: 03 May, 2013, 09:05:17 AM »

Copper + aluminium = corrosion!   Paint or straight grease only I think.   I fitted my screen with the dash top out, I cannot see how you would get the edge of the rubber over the bottom of the aperture assuming you fit the rubber to the screen first.  Removing the scuttle panel is not that difficult.  I had a bit of corrosion on the aperture to deal with also.  Unfortunately the top cracked when I put it back in so will have to come out again some time...
Where had you got that one hidden anyway - I don't remember seeing it?
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
LanciAlan
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« Reply #6 on: 03 May, 2013, 11:23:16 AM »

Can anybody tell me if there should be any sort of "gasket" between the alloy castings that carry the front suspension etc and the steel subframe onto which they sit and are bolted?

I had extreme amounts of flaky powdery corrosion here - on reassembly I used some black mastic (can't remember what sort it was) but now I have a very factory-looking sort of seam of hardened goo that was pressed out all around the base of the castings when I tightened them down. As well as limiting any metal to metal contact, I had half a notion this would inhibit corrosion and maybe even act as sound/vibration insulation between the separate parts of the subframe.

Also is it possible to get the screen back in without taking the dash out.  And am I deluding myself thinking I can re-use the old rubber?  

I had no problem here (2000HF) either as regards re-installation of screen with dash in situ - just sit it onto the bottom lip first - or as regards re-use of the rubber which would obviously depend on condition and the availability/cost of replacements. My restoration work is not of such a high standard as to warrant this level of perfection - I settle for functional over beautiful!

Finally are the front brake calipers (twin-pot Girling) ameniable to a DIY rebuild and if so where to go for the seals?
Yes. I even went so far as to split the calipers for ease of cleaning out the cylinders (although this is not recommended) and reassembled with a seal and caliper overhaul kit from Omicron costing around £30 per axle and which includes piston seals, dust covers/clips and bleed nuts/covers. The seals only (and I presume the other bits and bobs) can also be sourced for pennies (pennys?) from other suppliers once you can specify the size. Some say that an already-overhauled caliper available for £100+ from Omicron is the way to go but I have had no problem with mine (2 sets reconditioned and in use) though my brakes are crap for other reasons…
« Last Edit: 03 May, 2013, 11:28:45 AM by LanciAlan » Logged

Alan Murphy

Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
LanciAlan
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« Reply #7 on: 03 May, 2013, 11:31:32 AM »

[.
« Last Edit: 22 May, 2013, 07:06:17 AM by LanciAlan » Logged

Alan Murphy

Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
ben
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« Reply #8 on: 04 May, 2013, 02:59:12 PM »

Many thanks for all your responses.
I will try to provide an update in due course on which way I proceed.

                                         Ben
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ben
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« Reply #9 on: 19 May, 2013, 11:20:55 PM »

Just in case you thought I was making it up here are a couple of pictures of my progress (or lack of!!)

See you at Goodwood in the Aprilia!!

                                 Ben.


* Fulvia progress 003.JPG (740.92 KB, 2016x1512 - viewed 385 times.)
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ben
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« Reply #10 on: 19 May, 2013, 11:24:28 PM »

More pics


* Fulvia progress 001.JPG (737.24 KB, 2016x1512 - viewed 399 times.)

* Fulvia progress 007.JPG (752.09 KB, 2016x1512 - viewed 385 times.)
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simonandjuliet
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« Reply #11 on: 20 May, 2013, 06:51:35 PM »

Have the "boys in blue" ever had words about the number plate on the Aprilia ? I have never seen anything quite so .... individual !
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AmilcarCGS, ApriliaCabrio,S2Aprilia,Ardea c'cino,S4 Ardea, Appia c'cino, Appia f'cino,B20 s4,4 R4 Sinpar, R4 Rodeo, 65 Moke, 2xR60 Tractor, 2xToselli 78, Moto Guzzi Ercole, Disco 3, Mini ALL4 JCW, Moto Guzzi Cardellino, Fulvia GT, RE Himalayan, Ypsilon
ben
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« Reply #12 on: 24 May, 2013, 12:03:59 AM »

No problems so far Simon but I have only had this version for about 3 years.

Whatever you do with a correct UK style number plate tends to look pretty ugly, IMHO.

I like the "no bumpers" look with the reg painted on the wing, except for the lack of symetry, but I think that is probably even less legal!

The original early series tapered alloy bumper would be nice of course but again would be spoiled by having a great big UK plate hanging off it.
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peteracs
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« Reply #13 on: 24 May, 2013, 06:16:21 AM »

Have the "boys in blue" ever had words about the number plate on the Aprilia ? I have never seen anything quite so .... individual !

Suspect it would be difficult to 'blend in' to modern traffic, so the first few letters would suffice to identify the car. Also given its age and probably more relaxed regime on numbering then, how would anyone know that was not the original layout?

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
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