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Author Topic: Cambelt tensioner spring  (Read 2424 times)
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neil-yaj396
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« on: 08 April, 2010, 03:26:25 PM »

Has anyone got any tips as to how to get the cambelt tensioner spring back on? The method shown in Haynes using a screwdriver as a lever is fine with the engine out, but 'in car' the screwdriver fouls the front cam wheel so that the spring end is shy of it's hole.

How annoying as I didn't need to take off the belt afterall! Cry

Any idea most welcome so the car can get off for it's MOT under it's own steam.

Neil
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1979 1300 Beta Coupe, 2014 Ypsilon 1.2 S Series Momo
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« Reply #1 on: 09 April, 2010, 07:00:04 AM »

Hi Neil,

On a Beta I've done it by re-fitting the pulley and spring together over the stud at the centre of the whole, but I'm not sure if there's enough space on a Monte to do the same.

Sorry if this sounds intelligible, but words fail me at the moment.. Roll Eyes

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Guy McDougall
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neil-yaj396
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« Reply #2 on: 09 April, 2010, 04:28:09 PM »

Thanks, presume you mean take off the pulley all together then re-fit with the spring? I'm doing it on a Beta so space shouldn't be a problem.

Neil
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« Reply #3 on: 10 April, 2010, 07:54:29 AM »

Yep, that's it.  Smiley
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Guy McDougall
www.facebook.com/RetroPart
Rare Parts for Rare Machines
Appia Coupé S3 (Rosina), Appia Berlina S3 (La Giaconda), Fulvia 1.3S 5 spd coupé (Tigger, belongs to Carol), Beta Spyder S2 (Vivaldi), Montecarlo Spyder S2, HPE VX (Pugsly) etc
SanRemo78
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« Reply #4 on: 12 April, 2010, 06:56:48 PM »

I used to use a long thin open ended spanner, just the right amount of leverage to let the spring drop back into the hole on the tensioner. But much easier with the engine out..
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pewe
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« Reply #5 on: 12 May, 2010, 11:01:06 AM »

For future ref. when adjusting my tensioner I use a length of push-bike inner cable (Bowden brake cable).
This is inserted through the hole in the plate, doubled back across the water-pump (i.e right side of engine) and tensioned by hooking it, then tying it around a G clamp or valve-spring compressor (screw type).
Find a suitable place on the body or engine for the clamp pivot and wind the cable into tension.
Can't see why that shouldn't work on the spring itself.
Saves skinned knuckles and is a lot more accurate than trying to lever it with a screwdriver.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe.
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