815 coupe restoration

[Kevinlincs]

I had a spare crankcase with liners still in place so I decided to have a practice on this first before making any irreparable damage.
I figured some strong box section with a hole through for some 3/4" threaded bar ought to be strong enough.
Wood pieces protect the block face and allow space for the liner to be pulled up into.
I was very surprised at how easy they came up, somewhere near to pressing a bearing race out was my thoughts on how tight they may be but with just a spanner without much strain at all it started to rise up.

[Kevinlincs]

The underside I need to modify, I'd assumed that once it came up an inch or so then it would be able to be lifted out but not so. My box section overhangs the block casting so a new piece will have to be made that is just wide enough to fit over the liner but not so wide that it scores the block opening while pulling the last but through. A stiff nylon piece may be the answer, something that won't harm the liner or relatively soft aluminium casing.
Dave called and offered good advice, very much appreciated as ever. Much more confident that all will be well. I've rebuilt many an engine but never a wet liner one, stories of disasters always put me off. Stick to the program, excerise due diligence and all should be well.

[Kevinlincs]

Dan has made a start on the welding repairs.
The sills need replacing which means most likely the centre sills will need fabricating and maybe even the inner sills.
Before then he is doing a few jobs inside the car, probably to make it slightly more stable before cutting the sides out. I've left him to do it as he sees fit, far more qualified for the job than me!
I will post a few pictures as I get them if there's an interest, certainly makes a change for me to look forward to seeing progress rather than being the one making the progress!

We had discussed how to go about making repair panels, for the floor etc, I was ok with having just flat panels or making them like the originals with the pressings.
He likes making tools for the fly press so he knocked up one to make the circular indents for this piece that goes under the rear seat next to the wheel arch.

[Kevinlincs]

The lower section of the arch was cut out and a new piece made to blend in nicely. The underside of this section is near the rear spring mount which needs quite a bit of repairing so it'll be nice to see how it goes.
I look forward to the bigger tasks and seeing it progress but happy to see that he intends to blend in repairs nicely

[BlueKSO]

Hi Kevin,

Quick question.  Do you know how to remove the pieces of trim (s/steel) ?  that run along the top of the rear wings, visible in your last two pictures.  I know that there are long threaded studs at the rear of the trim that protrude inside the wings.  I’m wondering if once these are released, the trim lifts, moves forward and clears some sort of catch?

Cheers,  Peter

[Kevinlincs]

Hi Kevin,

Quick question.  Do you know how to remove the pieces of trim (s/steel) ?  that run along the top of the rear wings, visible in your last two pictures.  I know that there are long threaded studs at the rear of the trim that protrude inside the wings.  I’m wondering if once these are released, the trim lifts, moves forward and clears some sort of catch?

Cheers,  Peter

Hi Peter.
Exactly as you describe, undo the small nut on the long bolt at the rear from inside the boot then lift the rear enough to release the stud then push it forward, the stainless trim is held to the car by an angled hook type fastener so fear not about bending it from any hidden fasteners!
If I get to the car tomorrow, weather permitting as we've a lot of flodding today around here I will take a picture for you, but it is as you describe.

[Kevinlincs]

Hi Kevin,

Quick question.  Do you know how to remove the pieces of trim (s/steel) ?  that run along the top of the rear wings, visible in your last two pictures.  I know that there are long threaded studs at the rear of the trim that protrude inside the wings.  I’m wondering if once these are released, the trim lifts, moves forward and clears some sort of catch?

Cheers,  Peter

Hi Peter.
Exactly as you describe, undo the small nut on the long bolt at the rear from inside the boot then lift the rear enough to release the stud then push it forward, the stainless trim is held to the car by an angled hook type fastener so fear not about bending it from any hidden fasteners!
If I get to the car tomorrow, weather permitting as we've a lot of flodding today around here I will take a picture for you, but it is as you describe.

Front end securing clip

[BlueKSO]

Many thanks Kevin.

Cheers,  Peter

[Kevinlincs]

A slight hiccup in procedings.
Dans' workshop which he hasn't been in for long has recently suffered badly with the floods, so much so that he's moving units rather than risk further incedents.
So before the car gets too immobile it will be back on its' wheels for the move in a few weeks, which inevitably delays the welding process somewhat.
Hopefully we will still be on track for an early 2024 return...

[Kevinlincs]

In the meantime I have cleaned the block halves and withdrawn the cylinder liners. Well 3 of them came out with my home made tool, some bits of box section and threaded bar.

[Kevinlincs]

The top block face was protected by some wood pieces rather than just metal, also to provide a recess for the liner to be pulled up into.
Once moving the base box section was swapped for another piece of wood cut into shape so it would follow the liner out through the block.

[Kevinlincs]

The waterway cavity and the liners need some cleaning for scale but thankfully the seats for the liners are perfect and not pitted so once all is clean and new gaskets it should be fine.

[Kevinlincs]

For the remaining stubborn liner I resorted to using a bit more force, an easy to regulate force in the bearing press after making sure I had a great deal of support for the block to head face.
In the end it shifted quite easily, first real pump of the press and it released its grip.
I hope to get chance to measure the lines for out of round and bore size this weekend, hopefully they will be ok as they appear to have no wear lip or scoring so fingers crossed just a new set of piston rings and a hone to the liners should suffice...

[lancianut666]

Nice work Kevin...
Clarkey

[Kevinlincs]

Thanks Jim. Just glad to have success at vintage Lancia engine stripping at last! Hopefully the Flaminia will follow suit for you. 

I've managed to get the last liner out this morning once the aluminium block was warmed slightly with the blowlamp, a very cold morning so things were reluctant to release.

Pistons and liners now measured and well within wear limits so that's a big plus, just a hone and a clean up with new piston rings will see that part fit for purpose.

For now I've soaked the liners in WD40 type oil to hopefully prevent any rust starting from finger marks or any water residue from cleaning until I start to prep it all.
What do people use on parts such as the liner face when building an engine that may subsequently sit on the shelf for a year or so until being put to use? I don't want rust to start forming on any internal parts. I have some assembly lube that is for camshafts and bearing surfaces but it makes no mention of being suitable for use in the bore area.
Or is it just a case of assembling clean then the oil used for fitting the pistons into the liners will suffice once the engine is turned over manually whilst checking the cam timing?