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Author Topic: Cylinder head removal  (Read 1331 times)
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Tom F2
Member

Posts: 2


« on: 14 January, 2019, 04:19:21 AM »

I am trying to revive a long neglected S.2. The cylinder head is well and truly stuck on the center head stud. I have been bathing it with penetrating oil and heat for weeks, to no avail. Any suggestions?
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Dikappa
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Posts: 354


« Reply #1 on: 14 January, 2019, 06:53:59 AM »

Here a picture of how I got some very sticky aurelia heads of.  Took a few hours to make, with old gaskets as a template.  I guess on an appia something like this should work too, if attaches to inlet and outlet manifold mounting bolts/studs

Big advantage is nothing gets damaged by prying with stuff between block and head....


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simonandjuliet
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Posts: 2124



« Reply #2 on: 14 January, 2019, 07:34:08 AM »

Jim at the Appia Consortium made up a similar plate for his Appia engine - it is a known problem. He may be able to send it to you, but he recently lost his mother and may not be able to get back to you immediately.

When I did mine I suspended the engine by its manifolds an inch above the bench and gradually eased it off (after penetrating oil etc)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #3 on: 14 January, 2019, 09:42:29 AM »

If it helps, the best penetrating oil I have come across is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and cellulose thinners. It was tested by a magazine against commercially available penetrating and releasing products and found to be several times as good as any of them. I now keep a stock of 5 litres of it that I decant into eye dropper bottles for regular use. I imagine you could increase the ratio of thinners to achieve even more penetrating power for really obstinate jobs.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #4 on: 14 January, 2019, 07:04:02 PM »

I did indeed make a puller plate after trying many other avenues and a lot of swearing...see the relevant section in Story so far S1 resto. I could not believe how tight the head was stuck on! it only budged under the power of the screw threads via the bolts through the plate. Easy enough to make with a good drill and a tap and die set    http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7050.270
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 144


« Reply #5 on: 15 January, 2019, 09:31:43 AM »

ATF with acetone is also very effective


Mike
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #6 on: 15 January, 2019, 11:46:45 AM »

Cellulose thinners is probably more readily available than pure acetone but it's the same effect. I'm glad somebody else approves of the technique. 
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Parisien
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« Reply #7 on: 15 January, 2019, 12:00:02 PM »

If it helps, the best penetrating oil I have come across is a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and cellulose thinners. It was tested by a magazine against commercially available penetrating and releasing products and found to be several times as good as any of them. I now keep a stock of 5 litres of it that I decant into eye dropper bottles for regular use. I imagine you could increase the ratio of thinners to achieve even more penetrating power for really obstinate jobs.

Frank, do have a copy of said test or remember which magazine?

P
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Frank Gallagher
will
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Posts: 76



« Reply #8 on: 15 January, 2019, 07:30:20 PM »

Some years ago I bought a 814 engine ( 8 port head )
It had been outside for a number of years and I was determined not to break anything I tried most
of the things suggested here to remove the cylinder head. In the end I suspendered engine from the cylinder head about 10mm of the ground.
I suspected it was the central stud. I left hanging  and every time I went into garage I hit the central stud with a copper mallet and after about a week I notice the head had come free.
When I first bought my Appia it was suffering running on 3.5 cylinders with loads of smoke coming out the oil filler with the oil cap removed. I went to see Harry Manning he said that engine had picked up ring often happens on Appia Harry said.  He said the head can be a b.. to remove he suggest hitting the central stud.
 
There is a new wonder release agent  Innotec Deblock Oil  which may be worth a try.
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #9 on: 16 January, 2019, 12:46:21 AM »

Frank, no the other one, I looked this afternoon but couldn't find a copy of the article. I suspect it was Practical Classics though. Their tests are very thorough I find.
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Tony Stephens
Senior Member
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Posts: 136


« Reply #10 on: 03 February, 2019, 05:40:11 PM »

Build a "container" round the stud and fill it with vinegar. Over time that will eat its way through the corrosion.
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