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Author Topic: E55 LBR the parallel project  (Read 105936 times)
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #270 on: 27 September, 2024, 04:33:55 PM »

Thwarted by the horrendous weather this week I will have to try again next week to fit the various brake and suspension parts that came with the car and I have added to. Had a delivery yesterday of some new discs, pads, drums, rear bearings and the steering rack boots. If we get a couple of decent days I will put the car up on some axle stands and get on with it. Yesterday's Typhoon saw the road to the unit flooded so no work done, however the wind got some work in as it ripped off my little top cover and shredded it and the elastic restraining straps.
Clarkey buffeted but not beaten!


* box of goodies for the Y10.jpg (304.31 KB, 2000x1500 - viewed 131 times.)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #271 on: 28 September, 2024, 08:03:21 AM »

I always run a couple of ratchet straps over my car cover to stop them being damaged or removed by excessive wind. I haven't found ratchet straps wide enough to prevent the cats shredding the covers though (perhaps I should put the straps round the cats rather than the car). As to painting things like the brake backing plates I'm addicted to smooth hammerite regardless of the cost. It seems to last very well.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #272 on: 28 September, 2024, 11:33:18 AM »

I think the Hammerite might of been better as the spray paint reacted badly with what was already on.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
peteracs
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« Reply #273 on: 28 September, 2024, 09:42:31 PM »

Also a fan of Hammerite, but some primer and/or rust converter first seems to give a better result after wire wheeling.

Peter
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Beta Spyder S2 pre F/L 1600
Beta HPE S2 pre F/L 1600
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #274 on: 29 September, 2024, 08:54:56 PM »

Yes, always rust converter then rust inhibiting primer and smooth hammerite to top it off.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #275 on: 30 September, 2024, 07:36:58 AM »

Can anyone recommend a rust inhibitor? I have used these many years ago but was never impressed by the results this was the type that converted the rust into some sort of primer.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Parisien
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« Reply #276 on: 30 September, 2024, 05:10:36 PM »

Can anyone recommend a rust inhibitor? I have used these many years ago but was never impressed by the results this was the type that converted the rust into some sort of primer.
Clarkey

Not an expert by any means Clarkey, my understanding was it merely "converted"  the ferrous oxide into a stable inert material, thereby preventing further rust forming and then enhance by initially priming, then painting said surface

I use "Krust" by Hammerite

P
« Last Edit: 30 September, 2024, 07:31:19 PM by Parisien » Logged

Frank Gallagher
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #277 on: 01 October, 2024, 10:50:54 AM »

I used to use Trustan23 but don't seem to be able to find it these days so use Kurust instead. I use the liquid rather than the gel which has to be rinsed off after it's done its job. It feels counterintuitive to protect something from rust then dunk it in water. I remove as much rust as possible by mechanical and abrasive means, degrease then coat with rust converter, sometimes twice. I think both Trustan23 and Kurust convert the ferrous oxide to ferrous phosphate which is inert. After that I typically prime with Isopon 182 Zinc primer then for suspension components and engine ancillaries I top coat with smooth Hammerite in gloss or satin as appropriate. The belt, braces and another belt approach seems to be very effective even on a car that lives outdoors all year round.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #278 on: 01 October, 2024, 02:13:36 PM »

Hi all
Thanks for the advice on the rust inhibitor stuff will get some bought and get those flap wheels and wire brushes out. managed to get the Y10 a nice little drive round the units yesterday...I think 4th gear was even engaged a few times! Total was by the speedo 5 miles so a useful run out, had the radio on and the heater going. The brakes seemed better i.e. not locking on so with a couple of better days coming up I might get some work done on the little (more like tiny) beast.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #279 on: 28 October, 2024, 05:18:38 PM »

The job list:
2 front struts
2 front springs
2 top strut bearings
antiroll bar rubbers
2 steering rack boots
all CV joint boots
1 CV joint
1 front hub with bearing
1 bottom ball joint
2 disc backing plates
2 front discs
set of front pads
2 rear hubs and bearings
2 rear drums
set of rear brake shoes
master cylinder
servo
change bonnet
change hatchback
replace sills
patch up floor, windscreen, arches and probably bumper mounts
sort a respray
It is OK Terry said he would come over to help
Clarkey
Should be starting Wednesday (budget day)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #280 on: 28 October, 2024, 05:21:43 PM »

Also the rear flexi brake pipe but i understand this is a bit awkward to get at.
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #281 on: 28 October, 2024, 07:25:37 PM »

Quite a list there Jim!
I seem to recall the central rear brake flexi being awkward for some reason, when I did the resto on the blue one that was one of the items that was changed with the rear axle off.
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Flavia 815 coupe
Delta integrale
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #282 on: 28 October, 2024, 10:48:51 PM »

Hopefully parts are cheap as chips. The rear brake flexi pipe is inside the centre mount of the omega beam hence the need to remove it. However it's probably only about three bolts and a chance to clean everything up.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #283 on: 30 October, 2024, 08:50:36 AM »

I was wondering about taking the back axle off as there will no doubt be some welding to do in that area.
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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