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 21 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 07:27:30 PM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Charles
Very encouraging news about the balancing - I will renew my efforts.  I got the Blockleys fitted - no trouble - and they don't rub on the sliding pillars - phew!

 22 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 07:24:24 PM 
Started by RDG496 - Last post by RDG496
Thanks for coming back, I shall trawl the net....I'll find clarification somewhere !

 23 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 06:08:06 PM 
Started by RDG496 - Last post by Jai Sharma
I think, but am not sure, that all the sump pans will fit.
There were a few that were a bit deeper, so presumably hold a bit more oil, I think these were on the very last cars but am not sure.

 24 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 05:10:51 PM 
Started by my69S1 - Last post by fay66
If you want to remove the grill to make the job easier, then removing the rad makes sense….

I have the grill off the car.  That is why I was asking because I can see all the bolts for the water pump and it doesn't look like they would be obstructed by the rad.  I can pull the water pump out the hole where the grill was located.  The manual does say to remove the grill and then the rad.  Maybe that is applicable to the earlier 1.2's or maybe the S2?
S1 Berlina, you not only need to take the grille off which also means the air cleaner, the fan and pillar, loosen the dynamo.
The trim that goes all the way around the grille and headlamps, to get at the fixings on the passenger side you have to remove the air collector box .
Even then it's a fiddle to get the radiator out.
With the radiator in situ you can't even see the bottom hose and the hose clip.
It's what you could call a pig of a job Shocked

Brian
8227 Cool

 25 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 12:38:50 PM 
Started by lancianut666 - Last post by lancianut666
new boot...I will give the car a bit more of a run out when the new boot is on so as not to get grit in the linkage.

 26 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 11:04:06 AM 
Started by my69S1 - Last post by my69S1
For anyone doing this you do not need to remove the rad to remove the water pump.  Just take out the grill.  The stopcock bolted to the frame drained most everything.  More spilled out when the water pump was removed so have another catch basin ready.  Thanks for the heads up lancialulu.

 27 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 10:54:45 AM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Mikenoangelo
Karl I have sent you an email with the details of the suppliers of the fabric discs but here they are in case anyone else is interested.

http://www.gmspolymer.co.uk/flexible-couplings.htm

I am very please with the discs they supplied.


 28 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 08:49:21 AM 
Started by Mikenoangelo - Last post by Kari
Brilliant! I think we should nominate Mike for the "Golden Drive Shaft Award".

The findings of Mike confirm that small amouts of mass at the wrong place can upset balance.

Yesterday I jacked up the car at the rear and run the the drive train up to 4000 rpm. All was fine, no undue vibrations noted. Then I have removed the drive shaft and the flex couplings.

I installed the couplings on a spare spider and together with a spare output shaft installed it in a handheld electric drill. There were no vibrations up to 2900 rpm. So far so good.

I have bought the flex couplings in Italy early this year, and when they arrived, I noticed that they are made from very stiff material, much more stiff than those I have been using before. They are stiff enough that the disk supports the drive shaft with little deflection as in the photo. Now my concern is, that the stiff material imposes exessive loads onto the arms of the spiders and bending loads onto the dive shaft at every turn of the shaft, leading to metal fatigue. For the time being I will install my old couplings.
 
Most probably there is no specification avaliable, but I would be interested in a possibility to compare the materials.
And I am open to any info where to get flex couplings in the UK.
May I send a PM, Mike?

Karl

 29 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 08:44:26 AM 
Started by RDG496 - Last post by RDG496
I may need to source a new sump, when we last changed the oil it seemed the current one had been welded at one point and the threads on the sump plug required pfte tape and some sealer.
It does not leak at all but I suspect at one point a replacement may be needed.

Used is the best/only option ??

Are all Pans the same on the 1.3 whether S1 2 or 3 ?


 30 
 on: 06 May, 2021, 06:35:15 AM 
Started by Kevinlincs - Last post by lancianut666
Loving that reg  Smiley Smiley Smiley The auction house is not far from me might pop along and check out the car before it is sold.
Clarkey

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