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For information - I bought my NORMA NORMETTA  hose clamps from www.iq-parts-shop.com in the Netherlands in 2018. The cost then for 100 x 5mm and 100 x 9mm clamps, 25m of 9mm band and 20m of 5m band was 75 Euros including shipping. Their prices today are not dramatically increased, but of course there's the risk of inport tax on top of the purchase and shipping.

I read the same article Tim and have used that method for a few small repairs, it certainly works. As you say it’s also very messy but a good way not to disturb sound material. The prospect of doing a whole car though, perhaps rear axle out one year and front subframe the next, assuming you’ve recovered sufficiently!

I've just put my Fulvia Coupe S3 up for auction with Evoke Auctions, I bought it a couple of years ago with some plans but a combination of factors mean that I haven't been able to do anything with it so far and it will be at least a year before I can so being sensible (not like me with cars!) it makes sense to sell it and then find another when I can actually do something with one. Advert for it is here - https://www.evoke-classics.com/auction/#/lots/481

In the course of clearing my garage as part of downsizing, I have discovered an Appia S1&2 parts catalogue and a S3 supplement, Does anybody want these? Same rules of buyer collects and donation to charity.

Good tip about bleeding the fluid from Brian. New brake light switches are available from the Appia Consortium.
Clarkey

Top info from Brian! The good news is the Appia Consortium still have new dampers available.
Clarkey

 Thought the following might be of interest:-

The rear dampers are located at the top in circular turrets with the securing nuts under rubber covers in the boot. The lower nuts are underneath the mounting brackets attached to the rear axle.

Firstly remove the spare wheel and top mount covers from the boot. Remove rear wheels and jack up axle and install axle stands.

The lower securing nuts need a 19mm spanner and a 8mm open ended one to slip onto  the flats on the lower shaft. Even after application of copious amounts of Freeze Release spray the torque required to turn the 19mm nut was too much for the 8mm spanner locked against the brake drum and it turned on the flats. The solution was to use a pair of Mole grips set very tight and locked against the axle. 

The upper mounts are more complicated. The damper upper body is secured to the turret by a hollow collared nut. By using a light and a mirror it is possible to see the top of the upper shaft which is hexagon shaped with a slot for a flat screwdriver. A screwdriver cannot created anywhere near enough torque to move the shaft in the nut and the hexagonal shaft head is impossible to reach without a special thin walled long socket – hence why the workshop manual states that a special Lancia tool is needed.

 Freeze release spray is only useful when applied down  through the top of  the nut not around the washer area.

Eventually the solution turned out to be locking a 24mm (or 15/16 AF which is 24.2mm) spanner on the nut by supporting it on a suitable block of wood and  jamming against the  bulkhead between boot and cabin on RHS and onto the inner wing on the LHS. The task is then to turn the damper upper body under the car by using a small bicycle chain type oil filter wrench (£6.35 from B&Q inc. p&p!). Even using this requires too much torque for the chain which slides on the chain locating pegs. This problem is solved by clamping chain to tool pegs with the trust Moles!   Problem solved and damper removed.

Fitting the Spax replacement sourced by the consortium is simple. Both upper and lower damper shafts have 6mm flats on the shafts and are secured via14mm spanner. The rubber bushes have slightly smaller diameter collars so need to be as central as possible in the mounting holes to minimise any  minor misalignment.
Locating the adjustments screws towards to centre of the car gives access from under the rear. Set up adjustment is well described in the Spax document.

Brian Mills

Incorrect valve timing can cause the Fulvia engine to "stagger" around 2000 rpm under load as the incorrect timing causes a hole in the torque curve....

I have the standard Solexes - not the emission ones
When I change down from 5th I'm probably between 3 and 3500 RPM and it mainly happened when changing down from 4th.
As I said initially, the only thing I changed during the service was the plugs - to the correct N7Y's. Could it be that the plugs would make such a difference. More out of interest than anything else as the problem seems to be resolved now

This is a fairly easy task but I thought i'd write it up anyway.

Access to the switch is very easy once the front wheel has been removed. Lift up brake fluid reservoir  pressure plunger and lock up with mole grips or similar.

Disconnect the wires from the switch and remove it using a 24mm open ended spanner (An 15/16 AF will work just as well at 24.2mm).  Replace the copper washer and attach the new switch. Before tightening fully, release the fluid reservoir  pressure plunger and allow fluid to flow from switch to avoid possibility of air in the system then fully tighten.

Connecting wires will need to have connectors cut off and replaced with modern 6mm spade type – use blue insulated ones. As wires are quite short cut just above the original connectors.

Brian Mills