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Is it happening all time you change from 5 to 4th? What carbs do you have the nasty emission ones?

What revs are you in in 5th when you change down. Does it also happen in other gears changing at same revs?

I've never used lead additive in my Y10 in 16 years and 60k miles. I always use E5 which at the local Esso station is zero methanol.

I like your wheel nuts. Can you share the specification and where you got them as I could do with a set.

I would like to get hold of a Series 1 PLASTIC dashboard for my Sport .  Absolutely any condition and very poor or even  broken (cheap) preferred , so that I can re-veneer it .  Mine has been replaced with a series 2 aftermarket plywood one ,  which I don't like it and doesn't fit very well  .  Failing that , does anyone have an accurate template which would save me a few hours of trial and error making up a new one from scratch .

Hi Frank

I went there to the classic car rally last year, personally I preferred the aircraft museum at Newark which to my mind is better laid out and organised from a display point.

This post is just a reminder for the Betameeta weekend to anyone else who is hoping to attend, either on one of these days or the whole weekend.

I shall be firming up the Saturday evening meal numbers early in July, so please let me know if you wish to come along.

Thanks

Peter

I have 6mm and 9mm width metal tape and the clamps/pins for these (the brand which I think was the standard supplier to the Italian car industry in the 50s, though I could be wrong about that is Norma - Normafix Normetta).

A bit of practice is needed to install, and the photo below and this discussion on the Alfa BB (https://www.alfabb.com/threads/copiglia-hose-clamps-any-tips.418545/) are both helpful.

Photo also included of my lifetime supply of 9mm tape and clamps. They were so expensive singly that I bought 100 of each size... that was 10 years ago and I have probably used 12 of the 200.

hi Tim. What other info can I send you to help you understand the problem better

See attached business card, I spoke this guy at the Classic Car Restoration show at the NEC earlier in the year. They come to you, so you either need your own facilities for accessing the underside of the car or somewhere locally you can hire a workshop with a lift for the day. They had a Morris Minor shell at the exhibition which had been half stripped of underseal, it didn’t seem to have damaged the paint underneath, loose rust had been removed but would still need to be treated. If you send them some pictures of the underside of your car they will give you an estimate. It’s an interesting process but having removed all the underseal I would want to epoxy and Raptor coat the underside, major rebuild territory, so it’s not for me at the moment.
I’m using a variety of Bilthamber products to treat rust, on the underside, Hydrate 80, followed by brush painting there two part epoxy, didn’t brush on well but that could be me so still experimenting! Also used Hamerite, again brushed on over Hydrate 80, much easier to apply but have yet to see how well that holds up. I would be interested to know what the costs are for Ice Blasting if you decide to make enquiries.
Regards Simon

Not really enough information.....

I don't think so. I drained the tank and didn't see any water

I'd suggest removing it and replacing bearings with sealed type.
You can get a bit of movement and no leakage now because the seal face is spring loaded/ self-aligning to some extent.