stanley sweet
Lapsed
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« Reply #15 on: 25 May, 2018, 02:26:05 PM » |
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That's impressive!
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1971 Fulvia 1.3S 'Leggera' 1999 Lancia Lybra 1.9JTD LX SW
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #16 on: 25 May, 2018, 02:46:15 PM » |
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I like the way the surface rolls into the big square hole.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #17 on: 29 May, 2018, 06:20:00 PM » |
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My late best man gave me a joddler when he gave up working on cars. The head just fits through the square hole so I was able to run round with that to make the flange. I suspect it's important to the rigidity of the panel.
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frankxhv773t
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Posts: 2216
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« Reply #19 on: 30 May, 2018, 05:53:31 PM » |
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The hole punch in the joddler is for plug welds which, after the link about welds for MOTs, I shall be using later in the project.
My rail track anvil was acquired from a blacksmith at a re-enactors fair but they don't turn up very often. It was surprisingly expensive for a couple of inches of scrap steel but is infinitely more convenient than carting my 1/4 size anvil to events.
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frankxhv773t
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Posts: 2216
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« Reply #20 on: 01 June, 2018, 07:08:14 PM » |
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The replacement bumper bracket mount has had reinforcing plates fitted to bridge the gap where it folds outwards and captive nuts welded in for the bumper bracket to bolt into. The first cut has been made on the off side to reveal the extent of the internal rot which actually isn't too bad on the inner arch. I have included a pre dismantling picture of this area to show how hidden the problem was. Also there is a close-up of the Joddler for David.
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frankxhv773t
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Posts: 2216
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« Reply #21 on: 04 June, 2018, 06:29:16 PM » |
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The NSR bumper bracket is in place and the NSR inside corner is complete and primed. It isn't the prettiest job in the world but hopefully things will improve with practice. Cutting away the OSR corner has started cautiously. There are five layers of steel in this cunningly designed rust trap. I have remover the remains of the top part of the bumper bracket and plan to try patching the least damaged parts in situ this time to maintain better reference points for reconstruction.
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DavidLaver
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Posts: 4365
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« Reply #22 on: 04 June, 2018, 08:38:13 PM » |
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Looks good from here. Certainly looks BETTER
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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lancianut666
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Posts: 1688
Slow but rough
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« Reply #23 on: 04 June, 2018, 09:06:31 PM » |
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Hi Frank where did you source the back exhaust box? Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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frankxhv773t
Permanent resident
Posts: 2216
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« Reply #24 on: 05 June, 2018, 09:21:20 PM » |
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I expect the back box came from Halfords as I have a trade card that makes parts quite reasonably priced.
Today I plated the OSR outer panel and got a coat of paint on it. All this will be covered by the rear light so the finish doesn't matter too much.
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DavidLaver
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Posts: 4365
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« Reply #25 on: 06 June, 2018, 11:06:40 AM » |
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Is this the bit you didn't want to weld? What was the decision on that? One approach might be to weld it, but forgive yourself whatever thickness of filler it took to make look reasonable. Then again you might distort the whole panel and have problems elsewhere... Alas I don't have the experience to know. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htmHave also seen it done as tacks, then fill in between the tacks, then in between again and again until its continuous. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/removing-floor.htm" Distortion is always a risk when welding a long seam on a flat sheet. Distortion is caused by heat build up in the panel, so the way to reduce distortion is to weld small areas at a time and allow the area time to cool before doing any more welding nearby.
A 1 inch seam was made 1/3 of the way along the floor, then a second further along the floor. Further seams were welded between those seams and so on until the the joint was fully welded. A complete seam probably took around half a day, allowing plenty of time along the way for everything to keep cool."
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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DavidLaver
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Posts: 4365
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« Reply #26 on: 06 June, 2018, 11:11:14 AM » |
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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fay66
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Posts: 6194
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« Reply #27 on: 06 June, 2018, 02:03:16 PM » |
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Many modern cars are constructed using industrial adhesives, if you have had to joggle the panel why not stick it together and finish with filler when panel is prepared for painting Can't see why you can't, but not on load bearing structures? Brian 8227 .
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay" 2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer Dedra Technical Adviser
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frankxhv773t
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Posts: 2216
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« Reply #28 on: 06 June, 2018, 06:34:57 PM » |
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Following David Lavers' post on 24th May It seemed the MOT requirement is for seam welds where a panel has been cut into and spot welds where panels were originally spot welded. As a result I seam welded in the new metal and plug welded where it overlaps the rear panel.
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DavidLaver
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Posts: 4365
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« Reply #29 on: 07 June, 2018, 07:50:47 AM » |
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I think the MOT requirements are within "proscribed areas" - near suspension and seat belt mounts, I'd assume also engine mounts.
For bodywork - while not best practice - am sure most LMC members will have come across the "self tappers and wodge it full of filler" technique.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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