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Let us know the results in 500 miles. Fingers crossed. Hoping to visit the Cape wine lands either this autumn or 2025

Water pump is making a noise. It’s also possible to wiggle the pulley by hand so some play there.
It was refurbished before I got the car and isn’t leaking. I assume the bearing has worn prematurely.

Any advice anyone?

Cheers
Mark.

Thanks for the advice guys. Tim, I know the sensible thing is to take the box out and inspect - the prospect fills me with dread to be honest. Ive only just begun to drive the car properly and enjoy it to the full. I think I'll drain the box oil in 500 miles and take a view then.
Thanks again all. Your advice is always much appreciated

Hydro carbons are unburnt fuel caused by an out of tune engine, not necessarily a rich mixture. It could be uneven compressions, badly seating valves, tight valve clearances, worn spark plugs, air leaks, incorrect ignition timing etc etc. As has been suggested, it may help to adjust the mixture to get the engine to run more evenly, but everything else needs to be correct first and then balance and tune the carburettors. Also make sure the engine is fully up to temperature before the emissions are checked, and not having sat around waiting for the test to be carried out. Most MOT testers, especially the younger ones, have no knowledge or understanding of carburetted engines.

Having just had my 1972 Fulvia MOT'd yesterday, I understand that the MOT is purely a checklist of visual inspections. Mine did not have an emissions test (none of my classic cars do,) as they would not meet the emissions requirements of much more efficient modern engines.
Dave Gee

Just found this on the Government Website if it helps:

"Petrol before 1975 tested by sight"

You need to find an MOT garage that will let you fiddle with the carbs during the test, most places are only used to modern cars and have no clue. Luckily my local was happy for me to adjust and it may have been a calibration issue with the tester they were using but my CO was 3% with high HC and by tweaking the CO up to 4.5 it brought the HC down.

Sean 

Hi all
Thanks for responses so far.
A follow up question, as my interpretation of a couple of the responses seems to contradictory.
My understanding was that is the HCs are to high, I’d need to turn down the mixtures. This seems to be implied in 1 of the responses.
However, a later response suggests the opposite ie turning UP the mixtures in order to reduce HCs.
Can anyone confirm definitively please?
Thanks

I have used 75/90 Mobil 1 SCH fully synthetic for last 20 years.

If you know about Fulvia gear boxes when the synchros stop working (even partially) the small engagement teeth of the gears take a hammering which is generally where the swarf is generated.

Sunny day and a not so nice drive as we suffer a double whammy of sticking accelerator pedal and much worse, broken clutch pedal stop! The rubber rollers in the accelerator pedal expanding in the heat I’ve read about before, along with the relatively easy roller bearing fix. However the clutch pedal stop is not so easily resolved, my foot slipped off the clutch pedal when fully depressed and the return spring launched the pedal back up with enough force to break the pedal box casting and stop clean off. There is a darkened area on the casting, typical of a fatigue crack, but that doesn’t make it any easier to bear. Wondering if anyone has any bright ideas? don’t fancy removing the pedal box and getting it welded, I’m thinking it’s not going to be a quick job to remove a pedal box? Perhaps a high strength epoxy (any recommendations?) and I could attempt to strengthen with a couple of small pins or bolts. The casting doesn’t lend itself to mounting a strengthening plate. Anyway folks, take a look at your clutch pedal rubbers and if worn, replace without delay!!

 

Finally found that receipt and swapped the plugs for the correct ones put them in and the little monkey started with out even having to charge the battery...the petrol is months old so the theory about the plugs might be true.
As the Y10 has been neglected a bit lately I treated it to a set of chrome locking wheel bolts.
Clarkey