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Author Topic: Fulvia series 1 tyres and heater  (Read 5546 times)
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Permanent resident
Posts: 1157

« Reply #15 on: 12 October, 2017, 03:35:16 PM »

Maybe the standard temperature 2c, can you fit second series coupe matrix?


1973 Fulvia S2 1.3
Senior Member
Posts: 116

« Reply #16 on: 12 October, 2017, 08:58:49 PM »

No idea why my heater should work so well.
It uses a simple water valve and also two flaps in the heater box that direct either all or some of the air through the matrix. I guess the flaps give a but more control.
I suppose if the flaps aren't adjusted right this would reduce the amount of heat.
I do know the S2 & 3 heaters are better than on S1 cars.
Last winter I never needed to have the heater on full. Also it heats up really quickly from cold.
Permanent resident
Posts: 6052

« Reply #17 on: 12 October, 2017, 11:35:07 PM »

Tim, as the other member of the highly exclusive 2C Club, I would stress neither I or Brian own a  fur coat ! We do share equally inefficient heaters though!!

2C = Too cold???
No, no problems on that score.
8227 Cool

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser

Posts: 3

« Reply #18 on: 25 October, 2017, 11:36:53 AM »

Refurbmishment of my 1600 HF just complete. Fitted Toyo Proxes 185/65/14 to cleaned  up wheels. Seem to work very well and don't look too modern.

Have replaced heater valve but still runs hot all the time.
Senior Member
Posts: 175

« Reply #19 on: 29 October, 2017, 01:21:06 PM »

Here is an explanation of the controls of a Series 1 Fulvia heater, which may (or may not) answer some of the questions :-

The blue knob wheel is connected to a flap on a vent in the scuttle and controls the amount of air entering the heater system.  Fully clockwise, the vent is closed and no air enters the heater.  Anti-clockwise the vent is fully open for maximum air.

The red knob wheel is connected to a flap over the leading face of the heater matrix.  Fully clockwise, the flap is against the heater matrix and prevents any air going through the (hot) core (if the water valve is open).  It is really an air temperature balance control.

The short lever works the water valve - forward: closed;  back: hot water valve open.  Touching the hoses would show if the temperature is the same on either side of the valve and on either side of the heater core.

The long lever obviously directs the air to the screen/vents or footwell.

As a radiator core can silt up in certain circumstances, similarly so can the heater core.

A final important point is to remember that the Series 1 system is designed to use a .25 bar radiator cap.  If you use a higher pressure cap, viz: Series 2 .5 bar, there is just a risk that the heater core may perforate.

Regards -

Roddy Young
Dunfermline, Fife

1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
Posts: 486

B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored

« Reply #20 on: 29 October, 2017, 07:59:52 PM »

Many years ago (when the cars were a bit fresher) we used to check two things for heat:

First, we'd check if the engine water was hot enough. We'd put a big piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to raise the water temp. Never got too hot. Still do that today on other Lancias. 

And second, we'd check the rubber diaphragm at the heater valve. They sometimes need replacing, as they would swell up and constrict water flow.

Probably, by now, the heater cores might need cleaning out, as noted above.

B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored
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