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Author Topic: Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress  (Read 25354 times)
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lancialulu
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« Reply #240 on: 11 January, 2020, 03:36:16 PM »

Norman you may wish to check but the 2 empty holes on the regulator may be where the factory put in self tappers(!) to lock the regulator after adjustment. If thats the case you should also lock it as the effort of operation will move the regulator out of adjustment.....
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia HFR
1972 1600 HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1978 Transformer HF3000 Strato's replica
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi.e.
Jaydub
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« Reply #241 on: 11 January, 2020, 05:09:13 PM »

Excellent work and very useful narrative on reassembling everything. It takes enough time to do the work without having to sit down and explain it all, so for that effort, thank you very much Norm. Keep up the good work.
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1600 HF. S2.
nthomas1
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« Reply #242 on: 12 January, 2020, 07:35:05 PM »

Looking great - but doesn't it all take time !

Maybe try some talc on the window channels until they bed in ??

You are absolutely right Simon about it taking a long time - especially for a mechanical novice like me!   Thanks for the talc suggestion.  I'll also have a chat with Omicron who supplied the channel and see if they have any suggestions.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
nthomas1
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« Reply #243 on: 12 January, 2020, 07:42:49 PM »

Norman you may wish to check but the 2 empty holes on the regulator may be where the factory put in self tappers(!) to lock the regulator after adjustment. If thats the case you should also lock it as the effort of operation will move the regulator out of adjustment.....

That's really useful input Tim.  I have the original screws, and yes, they are self tappers.  There was one on the driver side and two on the passenger side.  I thought they were a bodge by a previous owner but now I can understand their purpose.  The only challenge is whether to slacken the three machine screws that hold the regulator in place and jiggle the regulator around until the holes for the self tappers align, which would get my regulators back to where they were before disassembly. Or to drill new holes through the outer skin holes.  Decisions, decisions!   
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
nthomas1
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« Reply #244 on: 12 January, 2020, 07:45:21 PM »

Excellent work and very useful narrative on reassembling everything. It takes enough time to do the work without having to sit down and explain it all, so for that effort, thank you very much Norm. Keep up the good work.

Thanks John. I may well be too verbose for some, but as a novice mechanic myself I thought it worth including a lot of detail to help anybody else with a similar lack of mechanical expertise undertaking the task in the future!
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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« Reply #245 on: 15 January, 2020, 01:17:21 PM »


Following on from Tim's comments I've attached small self tappers to keep the the window regulators in position.  There were two holes drilled in each inner door skin which lined up with corresponding holes in the regulators.  The holes for the three main attachment screws are quite large to allow some movement of the regulators during adjustment, so the self tappers are essential to avoid movement after final positioning. 


* a self tappers - Left copy.JPG (1021.83 KB, 2551x1254 - viewed 2 times.)
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
nthomas1
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« Reply #246 on: 15 January, 2020, 01:36:12 PM »


A couple more small jobs on the doors completed.  In each door there are two foam rubber blocks that the window rests again at the lowest point of travel, I presume to stop the window rattling.   I had removed these during disassembly and have now refitted them.  Also, there is a plate attached to the rail at the bottom of the door glass in each door.  The plates incorporate a small rubber block and stop the window glass from being raised too far.  They stop against an adjustable screw at the top of the door.  I have now refitted these. See pictures three and four.


* b Pads copy.JPG (806.55 KB, 1984x1286 - viewed 3 times.)

* c Pads copy.JPG (907 KB, 2126x1188 - viewed 3 times.)

* e plate copy.JPG (973.08 KB, 2268x1768 - viewed 3 times.)

* f Iplate stop.JPG (930.82 KB, 2268x1701 - viewed 3 times.)
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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« Reply #247 on: 16 January, 2020, 08:29:45 PM »


I've been getting the door handles and locks ready for reattachment and have a question that I could do with some help with.  What would be the best lubricant to use on the lock mechanisms, and what is the best way to apply it?


* IMG_3257.JPG (866.35 KB, 1701x1268 - viewed 2 times.)
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
jimbo64
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« Reply #248 on: 16 January, 2020, 10:06:31 PM »

Hi norm Iím going to use wurth white, long-life maintenance grease with PTFE
Iím no expert but think it will be up to the job, nice work by the way
Jim
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #249 on: 18 January, 2020, 09:08:14 AM »

For I job like that I go for grease in a spray can because it blasts into the nooks and crannies. However I am conscious that it is thinner in consistency than grease in a tub.
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