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Author Topic: Dashboard restoration  (Read 15362 times)
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nthomas1
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Posts: 769



« Reply #45 on: 18 January, 2017, 01:31:14 PM »

Here's the finished article, after five coats of clear gloss varnish.
Thanks to all for the help and encouragement.
Cheers, Norm


* 125 IMG_4143 copy.JPG (969.03 KB, 3019x1755 - viewed 304 times.)

* 126 IMG_4145 copy.JPG (1323.32 KB, 3264x2448 - viewed 304 times.)
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
Parisien
Administrator
Permanent resident
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Posts: 4041



« Reply #46 on: 18 January, 2017, 01:42:58 PM »

Excellent bit of work Norm, now you've just got to bring the rest of the car up to the same standard!!!!


P
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Frank Gallagher
stanley sweet
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WWW
« Reply #47 on: 18 January, 2017, 02:45:23 PM »

That's excellent, a very nice piece of work. I hope you don't suddenly remember you've bought a LHD.
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1971 Fulvia 1.3S 'Leggera'  1999 Lancia Lybra 1.9JTD LX SW
nthomas1
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Posts: 769



« Reply #48 on: 05 March, 2021, 08:48:30 AM »

******** Amendment added in March 2021.  After five years the veneer on my dash has lifted (bubbled) a few millimetres in a couple of places.  In retrospect I donít think the adhesive that is on the back of the iron-on veneer is entirely suitable for long term application and associated temperature variations.  If I were doing the job again Iíd use plain veneer (without the self-adhesive backing) and  apply an appropriate glue and then clamp the dashboard while the glue is drying.   Many apologies to anybody who has followed my advice (which was based on information I took in good faith from somebody else's blog), and has encountered similar issues. **********
« Last Edit: 05 March, 2021, 09:01:33 AM by nthomas1 » Logged

Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
RDG496
Member
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Posts: 42


« Reply #49 on: 05 March, 2021, 11:13:16 AM »

I recently made a new dash fascia out of ply also as my original plastic one had been butchered and cracked to fit the radio.
It may offend the purists but I decided to try something different and covered with perforated vinyl, may yet add some chrome trim to the speedo/tach.
Getting the hole spacings correct was little tricky but Im happy enough with the outcome......not perfect but pleasant enough I think.




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* IMG_3610.JPG (137.03 KB, 640x480 - viewed 206 times.)

* IMG_3612.JPG (118.47 KB, 640x480 - viewed 204 times.)

* IMG_3613.JPG (124.76 KB, 640x480 - viewed 203 times.)
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fay66
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Posts: 6006



« Reply #50 on: 05 March, 2021, 02:37:00 PM »

I recently made a new dash fascia out of ply also as my original plastic one had been butchered and cracked to fit the radio.
It may offend the purists but I decided to try something different and covered with perforated vinyl, may yet add some chrome trim to the speedo/tach.
Getting the hole spacings correct was little tricky but Im happy enough with the outcome......not perfect but pleasant enough I think.



Looks very smart, and no reflections.
Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
andyps
Megaposter
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Posts: 276


« Reply #51 on: 05 March, 2021, 05:40:16 PM »

I recently made a new dash fascia out of ply also as my original plastic one had been butchered and cracked to fit the radio.
It may offend the purists but I decided to try something different and covered with perforated vinyl, may yet add some chrome trim to the speedo/tach.
Getting the hole spacings correct was little tricky but Im happy enough with the outcome......not perfect but pleasant enough I think.




That looks really well done, how did you ensure the holes were round when cutting?
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RDG496
Member
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Posts: 42


« Reply #52 on: 05 March, 2021, 06:22:48 PM »

For the speedo/rev counter I used a dremel with a router attachment pining it through the mounting hole to the plywood to use like a compass.....they were the tricker ones but worked out fine. For the smaller gauges I bought a set of hole saws,I think 45mm or so for these. I also used those to cut the ends of the opening for the heater controls. And for the rheostat holes and end of warning light slot a flat headed drill bit 12mm form memory.
There was some marginal size differences maybe 2-3mm vs the original but not enough for it to look odd.
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