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Author Topic: Progress Report on Fulvia S2 rebuild  (Read 3989 times)
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nthomas1
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Posts: 731



« on: 08 September, 2016, 08:29:00 PM »

My rebuild work will be on hold for most of the next 3 months, so I thought Iíd provide a brief recap of progress so far as many of you on the Forum have asked how things are going.  The car as it stands now is shown in the first two of the three pictures attached.

I have stripped the car of its interior and glass, and have removed the bonnet, boot lid and doors so that they can be worked on separately.  Iíve also removed the dashboard and surrounding trim. I have de-rusted and treated the interior floorpan and wheel arches and much of the underside of the car.  The lower surfaces of the bonnet and boot lid have been de-rusted and painted, see third picture.  I spent a lot of time on the external weld flanges - removing paint, grinding off rust, and getting into the gaps with narrow wire brushes and this abrasive disks on a Dremel.  After applying rust converter Iíve painted each of the flanges.  The first picture shows the front end  of the car - where the weld flanges have been treated, but thereís more work to be done on the internal surfaces.

Iíve recently been focused on the rear end of the car as any of you reading my recent posts about rear panels and rear valances will have seen.   I bought a new rear panel, lower rear valance and LH inner sill repair section from David Ashworth, and a driver-side front floorpan from the Netherlands.  I think Iíve found a bodyshop here in Lancashire that I feel comfortable trusting the welding work to.  I have quite a bit of work left to do on the sills and edges of the wheel arches. Iím looking forward to the time when the new coating of Bianco Saratoga can be applied.

Iíve taken my old seats to Brian Cates in Bournemouth.  He has already supplied door cards, front and rear trim and parcel shelf.  In October Iíll be collecting the re-trimmed seats, headliner, carpets and boot mat.  Through the winter Iíll work on cleaning and painting many of the parts  removed from the car - such as the seat frames and runners.  Iíll also take a stab at re-facing the wooden dashboard.

I have three decision points looming;
1) Whether to remove the fuel tank and either replace it or have it refurbished.  It looks like it has been patched in a few places.  Frankly, as a novice, Iím nervous about doing this as it looks a daunting task.  But then, removing the windscreen seemed a daunting task but I managed it somehow!
2) Whether to stay with the steel wheels for originality.  Theyíll need re-finishing as they have been (poorly) painted black, and in the case of the spare wheel, white.  Or do I fit the set of Flavia Cromodoras that I bought before I even bought the car?   Theyíll need refurbishing if I go down that route.
3) Whether to stay with the bumper-less look or re-fit the bumpers that came with the car.  Iím angling towards bumper-less, and have already acquired a pair of HF-style covers for the front bumper mountings.  Iíll have to decide how to handle the front sidelights - Iím leaning towards fitting the lenses directly to the bodywork.  I have a Vitaloni chrome mirror for the front wing and I quite fancy some black ďLancia ItaliaĒ decals for the leading edge of the bonnet. Iím not trying to make the car look like an HF, but Iíd like it to have itís own personality, and it was rallied in a former life!

Iím not looking for answers to these questions, but just wanted to share with you what Iím thinking about.  Of course views are always welcome.

Overall, I have enjoyed immensely working on the car and learning some of the basic skills. The challenge of working without mains electricity has slowed me down on some things but I feel Iím managing OK so far with my gaggle of 18v batteries.  The advice and encouragement that Iíve received from other Forum members has been outstanding and I thank you all for that. 


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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
frankxhv773t
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1911



« Reply #1 on: 08 September, 2016, 08:40:06 PM »

That's going to be a lovely car when finished Norman. As you have both sets of wheels why do you have to choose. The Cromadoras are going to suite the look you are after but it's always handy to have a second set of wheels especially if you are likely to use it in the winter.
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
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Posts: 731



« Reply #2 on: 08 September, 2016, 08:51:18 PM »

That's good advice Frank.  I might just do that.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
fay66
Permanent resident
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Posts: 5915



« Reply #3 on: 08 September, 2016, 08:52:11 PM »

Well done Norman, your work looks very professional, can hardly wait to see it finished. Grin
Personally I'm not keen on no bumpers although Fulvia Coupes do look good without bumpers, or even better with 1/4 bumpers, but think of all your lovely restoration work vulnerable to the slightest knock from a careless parker when there are no bumpers fitted Shocked

Brian
8227 Cool
« Last Edit: 08 September, 2016, 09:03:48 PM by fay66 » Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
nistri
Megaposter
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Posts: 345


« Reply #4 on: 09 September, 2016, 08:36:44 AM »

To my view bumpers are nice (if in good condition), complete the car originality and provide a touch of class, Andrea. PS: Without bumpers how is the registration plate illuminated at night?
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Andrea Nistri

Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
nthomas1
Rebel Poster
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Posts: 731



« Reply #5 on: 09 September, 2016, 10:27:57 AM »

To my view bumpers are nice (if in good condition), complete the car originality and provide a touch of class, Andrea. PS: Without bumpers how is the registration plate illuminated at night?


Andrea - I don't believe the front number plate is illuminated even with bumpers fitted.  For the rear plate I would have to fit lamps either side of the plate - similar to those fitted to the HF.
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
the.cern
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1488


« Reply #6 on: 09 September, 2016, 12:07:25 PM »

That is looking so good!!!
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davidwheeler
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Posts: 1183



« Reply #7 on: 16 September, 2016, 08:45:04 AM »

ke the tank out!   It is not difficult and it would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
nthomas1
Rebel Poster
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Posts: 731



« Reply #8 on: 17 September, 2016, 03:52:31 PM »

ke the tank out!   It is not difficult and it would be a shame to spoil the ship for a ha'porth of tar.

OK David - I'll give it a go.  Is there anything I need to watch out for while doing it?  I have never undertaken anything like this before!
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
davidwheeler
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1183



« Reply #9 on: 21 September, 2016, 09:48:09 AM »

I seem to remember taking a tank out just by undoing the bolts and lifting but it was a long time ago so if anyone else knows any better...  At least all the connections are on the top so easily accessible.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
lancialulu
Press Officer
Permanent resident
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Posts: 4122



« Reply #10 on: 21 September, 2016, 10:52:13 AM »

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi
1998 Zeta
fay66
Permanent resident
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Posts: 5915



« Reply #11 on: 21 September, 2016, 11:34:28 AM »

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!
I know it's a long time ago but mine came from omicron.

Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
lancialulu
Press Officer
Permanent resident
*****
Posts: 4122



« Reply #12 on: 21 September, 2016, 11:59:03 AM »

Guess you could try Omicron but this was a cheap and invisible solution!
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi
1998 Zeta
the.cern
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 1488


« Reply #13 on: 21 September, 2016, 01:31:48 PM »

you may still need to reuse the drain plug/internal filter (if it is still there) in which case you need to undo the drain plug which could be stuck. Given your tank has had some work on it then it should come out but beware that unless it comes out completely the residual fue;l will spray out horizontally and not into any container.

Generally the gauze filter will have rotted and you can use the taller version of this

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/25336/i/drag-specialties-clear-fuel-filter-replacement-element

Which you can find in some motor stores as a pack of 3!

Or Norman, if you have a few hours to fritter away and you want to drive yourself to the verge of insanity, you can have a go at making your own!!!! Have a look at this, the post of 19th February is the relevant one .... http://www.lancia.myzen.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2928.360

Good luck with it whichever way you go. I am enjoying reading about your efforts, please keep posting.

                                                           Andy
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nthomas1
Rebel Poster
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Posts: 731



« Reply #14 on: 22 September, 2016, 03:35:28 PM »


If I had Andyís range of technical skills - from Southend Pier trains to micro-brazing - Iíd be in better shape for the task in hand!  As a first step to removing the tank Iíve researched the subject with the parts manual and previous LMC forum threads.  It appears that there are seven steps to removing the tank:
1) Empty the fuel. 
Iíve obtained a siphon and some fuel cans so am ready to start (albeit Iím two thousand miles away from the car for the next few weeks).
2) Disconnect the filler pipe from the tank. 
Research says that the ďbrassĒ nut might take some shifting, and that fastening a jubilee clip and using a ďCĒ spanner may be the best way to shift it.  Also WD40 on the thread.  Sounds like Iíll need a square section seal when I refit it.  Apparently the large seal that fits in the front S2 brake caliper is the same size and has been used by others with success.
3) Remove the filler pipe.
I havenít seen any references to how it is secured (if at all) to the metal shroud under the filler flap.  Perhaps it just pulls through?
4) Remove sender.
From the parts manual it looks like there are 8 bolts holding it in place.
5) Detach fuel feed pipe.
I canít see any references to this and it isnít shown in the parts manual.  Hopefully the method for detaching it will be obvious when I see it.
6) Remove drain plug (could be done after the tank is removed),
Sounds like I need a 14mm sump wrench - presumably hex?  Iím told it might take some effort to free it.  The details of the in-tank filter are quite comprehensive in this forum thread and others, with plenty of hints and tips. Iíll stop well short of trying to emulate Andyís fabrication of the filter cage. 
7) Remove the bolts holding the tank in place.
Looks from the parts manual like there should be 10 bolts.  Forum advice warns that drilling may be necessary if some of the bolts wonít budge - but Iím used to that by now!.

All hints and tips welcome as always!
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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
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