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Author Topic: Noisy brake shoes .. (1954 Aurelia B20 2,500 GT)  (Read 1596 times)
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Aureliaman
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« on: 16 March, 2016, 05:10:40 PM »

Hi Guys,

My front brakes squeal and I have not been able to fix the problem! The shoes were relined before I bought the car and I think this might be where the problem lies. I have some old shoes that I bought from Robin and I've noticed that these have Graphite buttons set into them where's the new ones don't - is this it? The brake shoe lower bolts and bushes also need replacing - are these available somewhere?? As always any suggestions would be appreciated - PLEASE!

Thanks,
Mike Huh?
   



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chriswgawne
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« Reply #1 on: 16 March, 2016, 09:15:41 PM »

Mike,
There has been quite a lot on the forum about Aurelia front brakes, shoe material etc so I would suggest you have a poke about using the search engine.
Assuming your car us single leading shoe - ie 4th Series or before -  then to set up new brake linings is very simple and I have personally never had noisy front brakes on any Aurelia. I always use the same material whether racing, single leading shoe, twin leading and so on. It takes a little time for new shoes to bed in but an enthusiastic 20 mile or so drive with smooth increasingly heavy braking always seems to do the trick.
You should particularly check the roundness of the drums and how much larger than standard they are, whether the linings are contaminated and that everything is pivoting properly in the correct plane. Are your brake shoe bolts and bushes very worn I wonder allowing the shoe to 'chatter'? I have never seen this and I cant see quite why they should be worn as the rotation is minimal.
I believe that Cavalitto can now offer new front drums?
Chris
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Chris Gawne
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fay66
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« Reply #2 on: 18 March, 2016, 12:24:37 AM »

Can I butt in on this thread to ask a question about a friends 1930's Morris Tourer with Hydraulic brakes all round, although I suspect the subject itself is relevant to anything with hydraulics and drums.
He's rebuilt the car but one front brake grabs, drums, linings, cylinders have all been checked, including trying different brakes drums, all to no avail.
While watching the cylinders today when he applied the brakes, after the brakes had been at rest for a while, the piston for the trailing shoe lagged slightly behind that of the leading shoe, the brake lining were a bit glazed so I suggested he rough them up.
Has anyone any thoughts please?

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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Aureliaman
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« Reply #3 on: 18 March, 2016, 10:43:41 AM »

Hi Chris and Brian,

Thanks for coming back to me! The brake linings are new and because of your comments Chris it could well be that the material used is the culprit here. Unfortunately they were re-lined in the US well before Anthony Pritchard bought the car so I cannot check what this material is - what material do you use please?

The bolts and bushes are not really that bad so I'm just (I feel) clutching at straws here.

As suggested I'll have a hunt see if I can find any other wise words.

Thanks,
Mike
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chriswgawne
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« Reply #4 on: 18 March, 2016, 06:01:52 PM »

Have a look at the 'bonded brake linings thread'. The Wolverhampton outfit will point you in the right direction but......you must measure your drums accurately for roundness and diameter to arrive at the lining thickness you want to specify to them.
I am away at the moment and so can't remember the code fir the lining material but I am sure they will help.
Chris
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Chris Gawne
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Jaydub
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« Reply #5 on: 19 March, 2016, 11:47:19 AM »

Brian,
Ref. Morris Tourer. It may be that the opposite brake is lazy and therefore the good one is grabbing. Also worn steering joint or incorrect tracking can cause grabbing, eg. if the offending wheel is toeing out excessivly.
Different tyres/pressures.

John
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Aureliaman
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« Reply #6 on: 19 March, 2016, 04:02:14 PM »

Thanks Chris, I found it:

For our Aurelias I use:

Industrial Brakes Ltd
 14-15 Webner Industrial Estate
 Ettingshall Road
 Wolverhampton, UK
 WV2 2LD

Tel: 01902 492337
Fax: 01902 404420
Email: sales@industrialbrakes.co.uk

I agree.  I sent them the shoes requesting that they rivetted on linings of the same thickness as the old ones (which were about 5mm).  They came back bonded and 1/4" thick which is 6.5mm and will not go in the drum.  However, I rang them up and sent them the shoes back and they have rivetted them and ground them down to size free of charge and all within a few days.  Moral - be absolutely clear what you want them to do and you will get a rapid and inexpensive service.

Excellent service, pleasant people, reasonable prices.

I specify the material to be used and also that the linings are bonded AND riveted.

On my 3rd Series B20, linings last less than a full season and on the one occasion I used a supplier near to home due to time pressures mid season, they could only bond the new linings ( I didn't have any rivets) and the linings detached after 2 x  30 min races. Disaster!
Chris
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fay66
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« Reply #7 on: 19 March, 2016, 08:37:22 PM »

Brian,
Ref. Morris Tourer. It may be that the opposite brake is lazy and therefore the good one is grabbing. Also worn steering joint or incorrect tracking can cause grabbing, eg. if the offending wheel is toeing out excessivly.
Different tyres/pressures.

John

Thank you John,
I'll pass it on.

Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
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