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Author Topic: my new integrale  (Read 29827 times)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #225 on: 03 October, 2018, 12:46:27 PM »


What I love about this thread is proof you don't HAVE to source new-old-stock this and repair-section that.  Flat steel and time, and sometime surprisingly little time, really is enough.   That bit in ten mins is good going. Obviously that's "in the mode", and "setup to do it", and with a lot of practice. Even if someone got it wrong six times its not going to take longer than "half a morning" to make the bit and the scrap might still get used elsewhere.  Then the welding and grinding and proofing etc etc, but you're showing how far gone a car can be and still be saved on a half sensible budget and graft.

...it also show that even if you do have new-old-stock this and repair-section you do need to peel EVERYTHING back to the bottom layer and patch and proof all the layers back to the top again.

I also looked properly at the Alfasud - looks quite orange next to the Imp.  The Imp at that ride height I assume not too many road humps near you.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #226 on: 03 October, 2018, 04:32:42 PM »

We want more Imp pictures! I've had 2.. great cars...shame about the heaters though.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #227 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:30:45 PM »

The lack of repair panels shouldn't hinder any job, most stuff can be made up. OK the curved bigger sections will take more time and effort plus most likely be made from more than one piece but practice gains you confidence which makes it easier to tackle the complicated stuff. I'm no expert, still only do these jobs as a hobby but I've studied from the people that do know and picked up tips which I try out, but thanks for all the comments.


This next section didn't make it to the magazine either, I'm sure everyone's seen rusty rear roofs on the Delta before!

It actually didn't look too bad to start with...


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #228 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:34:20 PM »

Saying about the panels being tricky sometimes to make is very true, the rear edge curves not only down side to side on the horizontal level but also curves in across the vertical, not straight all the way across, this made making a full width repair section a pain. It did take a few goes to get right, eventually I accepted it was as near as I could get it..this was mid attempt


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #229 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:36:54 PM »

A lot of careful welding, you can't rush it or you'll end up with a scene from the North Sea!
The repair section was welded here to the back edge of the roof at the fold rather than further along the roof skin.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #230 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:39:13 PM »

The passenger side section though had rot stretching along the roof skin which had to be removed, came out pretty good considering how easy it is to distort these sections.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #231 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:42:03 PM »

The underside needed some repairs which got spot welded, this section will be getting some protection once the wiring is back in, hopefully to prevent further rust coming back...


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #232 on: 03 October, 2018, 09:43:54 PM »

The front roof edge needed slightly less work but still new metal needed to go in...



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DavidLaver
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« Reply #233 on: 03 October, 2018, 10:10:24 PM »


That's such a labour of love...

Tips to keep the distortion out?   Tacks every 6ins then cool with a bucket and cloth before going again?  Air line?

Simple things: how do you hold it all in line before you start welding? (magnets?)  Did that one go on straight enough or did the repair section move with the heat?


(...and anyone tried this stuff? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Heat-Block-Cold-Front-Heat-Stop-Paste/562469449?iid=231543952294&chn=ps)

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David Laver, Lewisham.
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #234 on: 03 October, 2018, 10:40:48 PM »

Keeping distortion out is an impossible task David, it's just trying to minimise it. If you notice on the pictures where I repaired the front wing it's built up slowly from a series of tacks. I have loads of different clamps, regular mole grips and clamps with flat faces, some can again be seen in the front wing pictures. Tacks are spaced out then gradually filled in, taking your time is key. I do sometimes use an airline if it's a bigger patch, I've seen that heat soak paste used before and it does seem to work. An example of how patient you need to be is when I welded the repair arches to Robs' Imp the welding itself took over an hour...that's just the welding, not the grinding or prep...


When I asked a tutor about the best way to avoid distortion when say repairing a door bottom his reply was he wouldn't ever repair a door bottom! Said he'd rather make a new door skin...This was at a course I paid for myself where they restore Jag XK150's to a ridiculously high standard...makes my work look like the local Blacksmith has been at it!

This wing was a huge amount of work to repair, but then replacement ones could be bought....at 500 a side! My lad reckoned there wasn't the budget. The arch lip I made from a length, folded shaped then the top return side bead rolled in. This arch took over an hour to weld in...


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simonandjuliet
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« Reply #235 on: 04 October, 2018, 07:49:01 AM »

I take a deep breath every time I look at this post .....
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #236 on: 04 October, 2018, 11:24:02 AM »


That son of yours better be VERY pleased Smiley

With the roof was there access on the inside for clamps?   I suppose could always make some spacer blocks or something.  I guess its case by case matching the problem against a lifetime's collection of clamps.

Enjoy / recommend the course?  Sorry if there's already been an answer on one of the previous pages...

Found two I'd heard of and a third new to me:

http://www.contouracademy.com
http://www.mphmotorpanels.com
http://www.storik.co.uk/


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David Laver, Lewisham.
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #237 on: 04 October, 2018, 06:11:42 PM »

I used to have to take a deep breath every time before starting but I've done a few different cars now so you get used to what you can and can't do, it really all is just a variation of the same...

This though, to continue the Imp posts if I may for a moment, was one of the trickier parts to make despite being one of the smallest!

I've seen Imps' before that have had this part smoothed over, either from new metal or just filled over, we wanted to keep the original look.

It's at the C pillar where it joins to the rear quarter panel, there should be 3 grooves in it, that proved to be the tricky bit!


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #238 on: 04 October, 2018, 06:15:12 PM »

I tried to make the 3 grooves using my bead roller but they were too close to each other.

The solution was a bit more agricultural!

I got a block of hardwood, cut a groove in it then laid the new panel over it using a 4" bolster chisel to make the grooves


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #239 on: 04 October, 2018, 06:16:30 PM »

Then the panel got shaped to replicate the pillar...


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