Lancia Motor Club Forum Banner
07 March, 2021, 04:20:51 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Need to contact the Forum Administrator? e-mail forum.admin@lanciamc.co.uk, for Database Administrator e-mail database.admin@lanciamc.co.uk      -      Copy deadline for Viva Lancia is 12th of each month.      -      For Events e-mail events@lanciamc.co.uk      -      To Join the club go to http://www.lanciamc.co.uk/join.htm
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Register  
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 [7] 8 9 10 11 12 ... 18   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Fanalone restoration  (Read 81989 times)
0 Members and 9 Guests are viewing this topic.
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #90 on: 15 March, 2009, 02:17:09 PM »

It's been a while since I posted anything. I'm still keeping at it, it's just that it's that type of work that although effort is being put in you don't seem to have much to show for it !

The engine is all now completely cleaned. All items have been measured and I am happy to say that apart from one rocker shaft everything else is well within the limits at which one would consider rebore/replacement etc. I have stripped, cleaned and re-assembled the starter motor, and the alternator. The alternator needed a new winding, but Bosch still supply those so that should be ready in about a week + new bearings.

I have been polishing the con-rods with satisfying results. Next is to balance them and get them shot peened.


* DSCF3054.JPG (120.26 KB, 640x480 - viewed 326 times.)

* DSCF3058.JPG (114.06 KB, 640x480 - viewed 283 times.)

* DSCF3053.JPG (131.22 KB, 640x480 - viewed 301 times.)

* DSCF2799.JPG (127.4 KB, 640x480 - viewed 295 times.)
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
DavidLaver
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 4194



« Reply #91 on: 15 March, 2009, 06:05:37 PM »


What's been the polishing process for the rods?

David
Logged

David Laver, Lewisham.
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #92 on: 15 March, 2009, 07:11:23 PM »

I wasn't trying to lighten them, so no grinding was involved. Fanalone rods are supposed to be polished but they must have been given to the apprentice as it was a token effort !

First off into the ultrasonic bath then a good rinse.

I took the casting marks out with a drill & flapper wheel 120 grade, then a 150 grade. Then I moved up through 300 to 600 grade wet and dry, the last rub with a drop of 3in1 oil. I didn't attempt to produce a polished finish on the whole rod, just on the radii at the big and little end and the rod itself (the rest was given a going over with the flapper wheels). I made sure the side radii were polished and had a nice raduis ( the points of the "H") and ensured the transition points at the big and little end were smooth. Keep the poilishing direction along the length of the rod (not across). Dont polish the faces that require oil retention (big end side faces).
I finished them of on a medium and then soft polishing wheel.

There is some good advice here:

http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1041&p=6668&hilit=polishing+rods#p6668


Neil
« Last Edit: 15 March, 2009, 07:22:22 PM by ncundy » Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #93 on: 12 April, 2009, 12:51:39 PM »

A bit more progress !

All relatively straight forward stuff. The oil pump was on the edge of allowable tolerance, but as they all seem to be like that I have not replaced it.


* New stator and recon'd rotor.JPG (97.72 KB, 640x480 - viewed 299 times.)

* Finished alternator.JPG (112.41 KB, 640x480 - viewed 291 times.)

* Fuel Pump compnents.JPG (109.66 KB, 640x480 - viewed 267 times.)

* Fuel pump finished.JPG (94.95 KB, 640x480 - viewed 307 times.)

* Oil Pump components.JPG (104.28 KB, 640x480 - viewed 320 times.)

* Oil Pump finished.JPG (104.43 KB, 640x480 - viewed 291 times.)
« Last Edit: 12 April, 2009, 12:54:23 PM by ncundy » Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #94 on: 12 April, 2009, 01:00:23 PM »

Fan unit and water pump.

Not sure what to do with the water pump yet. With seals unavailable I am still pondering various options. I have got hold of a later pump off e-bay. Although the pumps are interchangable the components are not (see photo). The later pumps have a greater capacity (casing is different) and a cast iron curved blade impellor, which I imagine is more efficient. Any thoughts or experiences on this ?


* Fan bearings.JPG (129.66 KB, 640x480 - viewed 290 times.)

* Finished Fan.JPG (102.21 KB, 640x480 - viewed 271 times.)

* Water pump components.JPG (135.54 KB, 640x480 - viewed 293 times.)

* Water pump differences.JPG (93.93 KB, 640x480 - viewed 284 times.)
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
chugga boom
Non-LMC Seller
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 1754



« Reply #95 on: 12 April, 2009, 04:14:37 PM »

this is going to be a hell of a car when its done, 10/10 really nice thorough job nice to see for a change
Logged

1935 augusta lusso (chugga)
1935 belna saloon
1935 augusta lusso
1938 ardenne
1939 aprilia lusso
1958 appia s2
1963 appia s3 
195? appia camioncino
1972 fulvia 1600HF
1976 fulvia coupe
194? ardea SUV  "THE BEAST!!!"
fay66
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 5920



« Reply #96 on: 13 April, 2009, 12:17:04 AM »

I love the series 1 cooling fan and pillar, I had thought of removing mine on my 2c and replacing it with an electric one, but I just can't bring myself to do away with such a wonderful piece of engineering and work of art, even if it is noisy and saps the power.


Brian
8227 Cool
Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #97 on: 27 April, 2009, 03:50:04 PM »

I agree Brian - beautifully made.

First steps on the engine rebuild were made over the weekend.

With bits on order from Omicron (after a bit of credit card bingo from me  Tongue),  I started by cleaning the oil ways with rifle brushes and then compressed air and checking for ovality in the mains. Hopefully next weekend I can set up the main bearings and get the crank in.


* Block 1.JPG (82.5 KB, 480x360 - viewed 295 times.)

* Block 2.JPG (87.84 KB, 480x360 - viewed 319 times.)
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
fay66
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 5920



« Reply #98 on: 27 April, 2009, 06:32:00 PM »

Looks good Neil,
Have you a target date for completion?
I note the new technology on the left, & the old on the right Grin

Brian
8227 Cool
Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #99 on: 27 April, 2009, 07:19:28 PM »

Thanks Brian....it's a sign of the times that I think the hammer was more expensive than the DTI ! Being a youngster I have always been more calculator than slide rule and digital than vernier  Grin

I think next year is looking realistic for on the road, but I've tried to concentrate on "doing the right thing" rather than "doing it by Friday" so we shall see.
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
chugga boom
Non-LMC Seller
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 1754



« Reply #100 on: 29 April, 2009, 09:02:07 PM »

i'll say it again ( fantastic job! keep those pictures coming  Smiley )
Logged

1935 augusta lusso (chugga)
1935 belna saloon
1935 augusta lusso
1938 ardenne
1939 aprilia lusso
1958 appia s2
1963 appia s3 
195? appia camioncino
1972 fulvia 1600HF
1976 fulvia coupe
194? ardea SUV  "THE BEAST!!!"
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #101 on: 07 June, 2009, 06:19:51 PM »

Got the valve stem seals fitted this weekend. A bit more of a job than I first thought. Having got a set from Omicron I found that they did not fit. Measuring the guides up I found they were 10.2 mm (book says 13mm) diameter, but the seals only 9.4mm. No way would they fit. I investigated other seals but after talking to Elring (who make OEM seals) it seemed it was a non-standard, or obsolete guide size. Standard sizes now are 9.8 or 10.4mm.

As luck would have it my dad has just finished converting the Aurelia to stem seals, so with a bit of fettling, I used this tool to turn them to the correct size for these seals, 9.8mm:

Valve stem seal

Crank is finished and ready to fit, valves and cams will go in this week. Will be visiting the local machining shop to discuss metal spraying and re-grinding the rocker shafts which have 20 thou wear soon as well - perenial problem on Fulvias.


* Valve guide 8.JPG (93.26 KB, 640x480 - viewed 286 times.)

* Valve guide 9.JPG (101.93 KB, 640x480 - viewed 277 times.)

* Valve guide 6.JPG (96.43 KB, 640x480 - viewed 254 times.)

* Valve guide 1.JPG (108.27 KB, 640x480 - viewed 282 times.)
« Last Edit: 07 June, 2009, 06:28:43 PM by ncundy » Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
DavidLaver
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 4194



« Reply #102 on: 07 June, 2009, 06:27:32 PM »


What am I looking at in the first picture?  Is that the tool to turn them down?


David
Logged

David Laver, Lewisham.
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #103 on: 07 June, 2009, 06:43:19 PM »

I should have taken some more pictures  Grin

As you are looking at it, it is set up to reduce the height off the guide. The cutter is on the left, centre is the locating guide (locates in the valve guide), on the right is a depth stop. To reduce the diameter, the depth stop is removed and a different cutter is put in (replacing the one shown). To put the chamfer on, yet another cutter is used with the depth stop.

As it was made to fit the Aurelia (which has larger diameter valve stems), when I reduced the diameter of the locating guide (center of tool) to 7mm there was a slight gap between the cutting tool and the locating guide which meant that when I was reducing the height I was left with a slight shoulder (you can see this, 2nd guide from the left on the first picture) that I took off with a band sander.

Worked fine.
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #104 on: 26 June, 2009, 09:41:05 PM »

I have now put the crank in. It turns very nicely, so slowly it's beinging to look like an engine again  Grin

Two other activites on the go. The head is having the seats and valves machined. One valve would not lap in as the cut was slightly off center (the valve wasn't bent) and I am deciding what to do with the rocker shafts. Both were worn, the inlet had 20 thou wear in places.

Does anyone have any experience with metal spreying ? I have had conflicting advice on this - one engine specialist said unlikly it can be done as the oilways would become blocked up during the process, the other said it could probably be done. I can get new ones but they are ~200 for a pair.

What have others done in this situation ?



* DSCF3222.JPG (109.21 KB, 640x480 - viewed 291 times.)
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 [7] 8 9 10 11 12 ... 18   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Contact the Forum Administrator

LMC Forum copyright © 2007 - 2021 Lancia Motor Club Ltd

Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2006-2011, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.048 seconds with 20 queries.