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Author Topic: Story so far series 1 resto  (Read 89289 times)
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GG
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored


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« Reply #360 on: 13 August, 2016, 01:53:32 PM »

that's the bottom of the block. They are more generously spaced at the top.
And on the Fulvia, these bores are even scalloped, since the pistons aren't ever at the bottom at the same time!
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored
JohnMillham
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« Reply #361 on: 13 August, 2016, 02:23:23 PM »

that's the bottom of the block. They are more generously spaced at the top.
And on the Fulvia, these bores are even scalloped, since the pistons aren't ever at the bottom at the same time!
Surely, when No. 1 is at the bottom, so is No. 3 and when No. 2 is at the bottom, so is No. 4.
The same goes for the top.
Regards, John
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lancialulu
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« Reply #362 on: 13 August, 2016, 03:45:47 PM »

that's the bottom of the block. They are more generously spaced at the top.
And on the Fulvia, these bores are even scalloped, since the pistons aren't ever at the bottom at the same time!
Note to self....must pay more attention!
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia HFR
1972 1600 HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1978 Transformer HF3000 Strato's replica
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi.e.
GG
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored


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« Reply #363 on: 13 August, 2016, 07:27:36 PM »

that's the bottom of the block. They are more generously spaced at the top.
And on the Fulvia, these bores are even scalloped, since the pistons aren't ever at the bottom at the same time!
Surely, when No. 1 is at the bottom, so is No. 3 and when No. 2 is at the bottom, so is No. 4.
The same goes for the top.
Regards, John

Good catch John, but I think you mean that 1/4 are on the bottom at the same time, and so are 2/3.
Model of Appia crank shown below.



* Screen Shot 2016-08-13 at 2.24.15 PM.png (85.74 KB, 867x498 - viewed 89 times.)
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored
neil-yaj396
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« Reply #364 on: 14 August, 2016, 07:43:18 AM »

My gawd those bores look horribly close?Huh??

Quite! Would be interested to see the head gasket?
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JohnMillham
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« Reply #365 on: 14 August, 2016, 08:42:32 AM »

that's the bottom of the block. They are more generously spaced at the top.
And on the Fulvia, these bores are even scalloped, since the pistons aren't ever at the bottom at the same time!
Surely, when No. 1 is at the bottom, so is No. 3 and when No. 2 is at the bottom, so is No. 4.
The same goes for the top.
Regards, John

Good catch John, but I think you mean that 1/4 are on the bottom at the same time, and so are 2/3.
Model of Appia crank shown below.


It depends on how Lancia numbered the cylinders. The front one on the crankshaft isn't always No. 1. The front one on the Lambda and Augusts are given number 2. No. 1 on the Lambda is the cylinder nearest the driver (on a right hand drive car) and No. 1 on an Augusta is the opposite one, i/e. the front left or second crank pin. I think Lancia did this so that the firing order was always 1,2,3 4! On the Lambda is goes anti-clockwise (seen from the top) and on the Augusta clockwise.
Regards, John
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored


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« Reply #366 on: 14 August, 2016, 01:49:03 PM »

Thanks for the info, John.Those early cars are tricky.

On the Appia, the workshop manual assigns cylinder #1  to the first journal, and #4 to the last. The owners manual (s.2) says the firing order is 1342 (as shown on the ignition distributor) and that the numbering of cylinders is on the head. Hopefully 1 is still 1, etc.
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored
lancianut666
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« Reply #367 on: 15 August, 2016, 08:32:11 PM »

Hi all
just an update...went to see my engine man today as I forgot the crankshaft last week....had a thought before I went over about the core plugs in the bottom of the block....30-40 pounds to replace them I am advised... and he says he will pop the pistons in the block as he was unsure about no 4 with it being back to front...I have to take JCS to get his steristrips taken off tomorrow so I will try and get these couple of jobs done by the end of the week...hopefully...
Clarkey akaJCJ
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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« Reply #368 on: 16 August, 2016, 08:42:27 PM »

pics of the cleaned up pistons and new mains


* 100_0097.JPG (1161.33 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 88 times.)

* 100_0101.JPG (1311.96 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 96 times.)

* 100_0097.JPG (1161.33 KB, 3072x2304 - viewed 76 times.)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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« Reply #369 on: 28 August, 2016, 02:37:13 PM »

Any tips on getting the plugs out of the end of the crank? will they get destroyed in the process?
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
will
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« Reply #370 on: 28 August, 2016, 07:06:02 PM »

I normally hand the crankshaft to engineering shop.
They use a selection of stud extractors so they need to be replaced.
With new plugs there used to be some in consortium store
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lancianut666
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« Reply #371 on: 28 August, 2016, 10:17:24 PM »

I'll check and see if we have any..thanks
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
ben
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« Reply #372 on: 29 August, 2016, 11:14:32 AM »

Assuming plugs in the crankshaft are similar to the Aprilia they are aluminium and have to be drilled out very carefully so as not to damage the female threads in the crankshaft.
Start with a small drill centered as accurately as possible and drill right through the plugs then repeat with gradually increased drill sizes until you reach the thread.
If you are lucky the final bit of the plug comes out like a length of curly wire. Then you may need to poke around with something like a dentists probe to get the last bits out and you will need a tap of the correct size to finally clean up the threads before thoroughly washing out the drillings and blowing clean with compressed air.
So not a job to be undertaken lightly but generally considered to be essential if a crank has been re-machined.
I used threaded alloy rod to replace mine on the Aprilia. I think 10mm diameter by 1mm pitch and cut each one off after screwing them in with thread locking compound,finally filing them off smooth.
So as you will see they are certainly not re-usable and you cannot usually get them out with stud extrators.
As Will says probably best to have the machine shop do it but there are a few stories out there about disasters because it has not been done properly.
Ben




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lancianut666
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« Reply #373 on: 30 August, 2016, 08:53:37 AM »

thanks for the advice
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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« Reply #374 on: 30 August, 2016, 09:09:38 AM »

so the 2 plugs 28 & 30 are the same thread see pic...what about 31


* crank.jpg (332.04 KB, 1754x1240 - viewed 101 times.)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
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