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Author Topic: Technical information only  (Read 9940 times)
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ColinMarr
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« Reply #15 on: 24 March, 2014, 06:23:22 PM »

John, But you might find that 82.60 is the largest pistons and rings that are in theory available as standard.

Incidentally, there is (or was) a Lada engine with 82 mm bores. Barry Waterhouse used to have a stock of Lada 82 mm rings with up to +0.60 oversize - much cheaper than any Fiat or Lancia originals.

Colin
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davidwheeler
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« Reply #16 on: 16 May, 2015, 08:33:37 AM »

Lock codes
(reposted frm another thread)



08227 Brian+Hilton
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Useful Information from SA
« on: 11 May, 2015, 01:15:14 PM »
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Felix Fertag in SA has just posted this on his Lancia Parts site.


Dear Fulvia Driver
I spend Sunday/mothers day to once and for all sort out all our Fulvia locks. As you know S1 and S2 have different locks. I have sorted the locks and compiled the part numbers,
and below is the result I want to share with you as a reference for any future requirements.
Lancia Fulvia Locks   
Fulvia S1   Fulvia S2
lockset   1817914   1820916
key   2180156   2277081
boot    1890607   1891464
filler   1791212   1891532
glove   1890611   1891435
lockset   1817913   
key   2172508   
door   1890710   1891426
ignition   1791216   
ignition      1821224
key      2276783


Brian
8227 Cool
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
davidwheeler
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« Reply #17 on: 20 August, 2015, 07:26:44 PM »

S2 Sport headlight bulbs (Omicron type headlights)   http://www.phoenixautobulbs.co.uk/sc/h4-headlight-bulbs-472-12v-60-55w/
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #18 on: 08 April, 2016, 03:15:19 PM »

Power curves for Fulvia engine


* 818.540 power curve.png (164.21 KB, 274x400 - viewed 937 times.)
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
GlynW
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« Reply #19 on: 26 May, 2016, 07:30:44 PM »

A drawing showing the positions of the bolts securing the dashboard top, wooden fascia panel and lower dashboard in a Fulvia Coupe (S2).  Also a guide to removal and replacement.

* Fulvia Dashboard Fixings and Removal.pdf (447.89 KB - downloaded 118 times.)
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GlynW
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« Reply #20 on: 11 June, 2016, 06:47:49 PM »

Notes on which electrical items are connected to which fuses, for a standard S2 Fulvia. Also advice on Lancia recommended fuse rating (Avvis/Luci Interne (fuse7) = 25/30amp).

To be read in conjunction with the wiring diagram in the Fulvia Instruction Manual or with the Fulvia Electrical Flowchart (this section).

* Lancia Fulvia Wiring Notes S2 v2.doc (282.5 KB - downloaded 280 times.)
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davidwheeler
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« Reply #21 on: 16 September, 2016, 08:41:48 AM »

    
Fulvia paint codes
« on: 05 September, 2016, 10:24:10 PM »
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https://www.facebook.com/notes/lancia-fulvia-coup%C3%A8fulvia-1200hfcoup%C3%A8-rallye-1300-1300hf1300-s-1600-hf/i-colori-e-gli-allestimenti-delle-fulvia/1719786818283835

From,
Alan Cooper.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
GG
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored


WWW
« Reply #22 on: 17 September, 2016, 02:17:55 PM »

Found in the Data Tech. 2nd ed. at larger resolution.


* Fulvia - Dati Tecnici 2nd ed power sml A.jpg (1957.14 KB, 1768x2500 - viewed 102 times.)

* Fulvia - Dati Tecnici 2nd ed power sml B.jpg (1820.63 KB, 1768x2500 - viewed 81 times.)
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B20 s.2, Appia C10 unrestored
davidwheeler
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« Reply #23 on: 07 December, 2016, 10:43:57 AM »

Inertia seat belts
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271410026929?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Thanks to Stanley Sweet.

The company selling them as per the listing is

Vintage Warehouse 65
Mark Houghton
51 NEW ROAD
BROMSGROVE
Worcestershire
B60 2JU
United Kingdom

Phone:07741 256356
Email:993@gmx.com

« Last Edit: 15 January, 2017, 12:12:37 PM by peteracs » Logged

David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #24 on: 15 January, 2017, 11:19:51 AM »

     reposted from Norm Thomas

For anybody undertaking a dashboard restoration I've summarised the process below.  I suggest reading this summary, and taking a close look at the step-by-step pictures and descriptions in the blog above.


ASSEMBLE MATERIALS
- mahogany iron-on veneer, from veneers online.co.uk website (about £15 for a sheet big enough for 4 dashboards).
- large sheet of white paper (to protect veneer while ironing it on).
- wood glue, if needed for repair (small bottle of Evo Stick wood glue from B&Q).
- wood filler, if needed for repair (small tube of Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler, Light, Medium Oak, from B&Q).
- Swann Morton surgical scalpel (£3 on Amazon, and 100 blades (about £10 on Amazon) I used about 60 blades.
- plywood off-cut for practicing ironing and cutting techniques, and hole-saw (hole saw is only for cutting holes in the plywood to simulate dashboard openings).  
- sandpaper: 150 grit for sanding cut veneer edges.
- wet&dry paper (used dry): 400  and 1500  for final finishing of cut-outs, and 1500 for lightly sanding the varnished surface between coats.
- small blocks to wrap sandpaper around, for sanding straight edges.
- curved objects to wrap sandpaper around for sanding circular sections: I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can.
- tack rags for wiping dust off surface.
- exterior clear gloss varnish (not water based). I used Ronseal Outdoor Varnish - Gloss - about £7 for small tin from B&Q.
- good quality 1” paint brush.
PREPARATION
- be careful handling the wooden dash panel - edges can be dry and fragile,  and the thin rear surface can chip away easily (pieces can be glued back on if they come away).
- fill any holes or imperfections - using wood filler, then sand.  Build up filler in small layers.
- repair any de-lamination with wood glue and clamp or place under heavy objects (large books are good) until set.
- cut piece of veneer using the dashboard as a pattern - about an inch over size.
PRACTICE
- use some of the leftover veneer pieces to practice on.
- I bought a plywood off-cut for 50p from a local hardware store, and cut holes in it with a hole saw (the type used for cutting holes in doors for handles and locks) and sanded these smooth.
- practice ironing veneer to the plywood off-cut using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton” .
- practice cutting out the hole-saw apertures (see technique hints below).
ATTACH VENEER
- iron the veneer to the dashboard using a thin sheet of paper between iron and veneer - have iron set at “cotton”.
- move the iron slowly over surface but be careful not to burn veneer.
- put the dashboard under heavy weights (large books are good) for 48 hours.
- examine  edges to confirm that veneer has adhered properly.
- any edges where veneer is not attached can be fixed by ironing the area again - then repeating the weighting process for 48 hours
TRIM PERIMETER
- place dashboard veneer-side down on a hard surface (piece of wood, or cutting mat) and holding scalpel vertically cut around perimeter, using edge of dashboard as a guide for the blade.
CUT OUT OPENINGS
- with dashboard veneer-side down, hold scalpel vertically and cut around openings, leaving just a few millimetres of overlapping veneer.
- turn the dashboard over and start cutting the overlapping veneer from within the first opening.
- start with one of the large circular openings as cutting gets more difficult  with the smaller radius curves.
- carve the excess off in narrow slivers.  Attempting to cut too wide a sliver can result in splintering.
- cut on the down stroke only.  Trying to cut on the up stroke can also cause splintering.
- change blade frequently - I got through about 60 blades in total.
- the practicing sessions (see above) will have shown the best way to hold the panel, and in which direction (clockwise or anti-clockwise) to cut.
- once the opening is near to the required finished size the scalpel can be held against the chamfered plywood edge to remove final small pieces of veneer.
- the cut-outs do not have to be completely regular, as the sanding stage will remove irregularities and allow a smooth edge to be achieved.
- fine sandpaper should then be used to achieve a smooth finish. I started with 150 grit and finished with 400.
- wrapping the sandpaper around an object that closely matches the radius being sanded is a good approach. I used a pen, a large tablespoon, and a baked beans can, depending on radius.
- use sandpaper wrapped around a flat block for sanding straight edges.
- may need to tidy up areas where the glue backing on the veneer is too visible, by carefully scraping it away with a finger nail.  As shown in the step-by-step photo sequence earlier in this blog.
EXAMINE FOR DETACHED VENEER
- after all cut-outs have been made, the dash should be examined to see if the cutting process has caused the veneer to lift away from the plywood backing in any places.
- I found three areas where this happened, and I repeated the hot ironing process just on these areas and weighted the dash down again for 48 hours
VARNISH
- lightly sand the veneer surface and wipe with a tack-rag.
- apply first coat of varnish very, very thinly, to avoid that it wets the veneer too much and causes buckling.
- adjust your angle of view to see light reflected on the varnish in order to see any areas of puddling of the varnish, and brush these out with a dryish brush.
- leave for a day, then lightly sand with 1500 grit paper and apply second coat.
- repeat this process another 3 times giving 5 coats in total, or until you are happy with the finish.

Good luck!

Safety information from various people added bu Norm's request.   Read, mark and inwardly digest! David


Word of caution........in my career using endless scalpel blades, the biggest risk of injury was the fitting and removal of scalpel blades, hence a policy of single use (infection purposes) and the use of a special implement to hold blade whilst fitting or removing same!

They can inflict horrific injuries!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use


https://www.pearsondental.com/catalog/product.asp?majcatid=41&catid=2391&subcatid=1129&pid=58670&dpt=0

http://www.sklarcorp.com/scalpels/blade-removers/blade-removal-forceps.html

The first allows the simultaneous raising of the rear locking element at the same time as sliding the blade off.


Safety first, second and third guys!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0082CW90M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/254-6179918-5827767?ie=UTF8&qid=1484687715&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=scalpel+blade+remover&dpPl=1&dpID=310c-SlU8vL&ref=plSrch

This for removal and disposal, single use

I've been using scalpels for years - back in pre-computer days they were essential for artwork in studios. Couple of things - you were quite right not to skimp on them as they are pretty cheap. The other thing if you are doing difficult cuts is to watch your eyes. Quite unbelievably, but true as I witnessed it myself, at college a friend was trying to cut a curve through thick material. The blade bent and snapped in half and pinged off the lens of his glasses. He then put another one in and it snapped and pinged off the other lens! He didn't wear glasses all the time so it was a lucky escape.   Safety glasses all the time!


P

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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
2015 Alfa Romeo Mito
2011 Peugeot 207 in Spain
2016 Ford Focus Estate
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
« Last Edit: 18 January, 2017, 09:37:35 PM by davidwheeler » Logged

David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #25 on: 30 January, 2017, 05:01:24 PM »

Body dimensions


* IMG_1960.jpg (47.48 KB, 480x640 - viewed 441 times.)

* IMG_1961.jpg (32.15 KB, 480x640 - viewed 453 times.)
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #26 on: 16 July, 2017, 06:14:51 PM »

SII Brake master cylinder internals.


* IMG_4206a.jpg (110.67 KB, 1155x242 - viewed 61 times.)
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #27 on: 19 July, 2017, 01:22:24 PM »

transferred from another thread


* FulviaMCDiagram.jpg_thumb.png (784.99 KB, 800x698 - viewed 381 times.)
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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« Reply #28 on: 30 August, 2017, 06:01:31 PM »

Shock absorber data from Sliding Pillar


* Fulvia Shock absorbers001.jpg_thumba.png (324.38 KB, 561x800 - viewed 292 times.)

* Fulvia Shock absorbers002.jpg (939.45 KB, 2315x3290 - viewed 75 times.)
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
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