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Author Topic: Finally home  (Read 11742 times)
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kernow
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« Reply #15 on: 09 May, 2012, 05:58:45 PM »

Wow, thanks guys. So much great advice there. I've set up a list to work through as soon as it stops pouring with rain. Hard to believe yesterday I was driving home along the coast, not a cloud in the sky.

Was aiming to have the car finished for Stanford Hall, but not sure I'll have been able to get enough miles under my belt by then to take on that trip.

Cheers

Chris

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1971 Fulvia Sport
SteveGales
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« Reply #16 on: 09 May, 2012, 07:53:17 PM »

Chris

The bush where the pedal arm pivots can also be changed for a roller bearing. There was an article in VL years ago about it , the size
and supplier were listed. I did this on my old coupe and it transformed the throttle action. Have since sold the car so can't check service
history for details. I can have a look back through old VL's to see if I can find the info if you would like me to.

Regards

Steve
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kernow
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« Reply #17 on: 11 May, 2012, 03:03:39 PM »

Hi Steve,

I'm hopefully going to have the time to delve into a few of these issues this weekend so any advice on the roller bearing size would be great.

Cheers,

Chris
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ColinMarr
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« Reply #18 on: 11 May, 2012, 04:56:37 PM »

I agree with all these earlier comments about oil pressure. When hot there is hardly anything indicated on the gauge, but once the revs build up all seems OK the needle is just about visible in the photo below.

When I had a Flavia this was also true. It never happened to me, but there was a common story that because the timing chain tensioner was pressure-fed then with low pressure at tick-over there was a risk of the chain jumping a tooth and wrecking the engine. Can this be true I wonder, and if so, is it true for Fulvias too?

Colin


* IMGP4922a.jpg (125.34 KB, 768x576 - viewed 162 times.)
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #19 on: 11 May, 2012, 06:27:43 PM »

Now that timing chains have been mentioned it springs  to mind that the chain oil feed nozzle can break off resulting in low oil pressure values all round.it is not unknown for some owners to  blank the oil feed remains with weld or screw accessing the oil feed by removing the front pulley.splash feed will then be the only lubrication.best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
SteveGales
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« Reply #20 on: 11 May, 2012, 08:59:08 PM »

Hi Chris

Managed to find the info on the needle roller bearing ( letters page, issue 440 Feb 2005).

10mm bore x 22mm outside dia x 20mm long. Supplier....Redhill Bearings , The White House, Brighton Rd, Handcross , RH17 6BZ
Tel no.01444 400900. I haven't checked to see if they are still in buisness but guess it would be available from any good bearing supplier.

I can't remember how I fitted it exactly but the letter mentions using a couple of washers, one either side . I know it was easy to push out the
old bush and press in the new bearing and it made a vast difference to the pedal action.

Regards

Steve
« Last Edit: 11 May, 2012, 09:33:26 PM by SteveGales » Logged
chriswgawne
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« Reply #21 on: 12 May, 2012, 06:12:34 AM »

Richard,
You are correct about the chain oil feed nozzle breaking off resulting in lower oil pressure. I now remember this was found to be the reason for our 1600 Sport's low oil pressure and I therefore stopped worrying.
Chris
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Chris Gawne
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fay66
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« Reply #22 on: 12 May, 2012, 07:53:30 AM »

Hi Chris

Managed to find the info on the needle roller bearing ( letters page, issue 440 Feb 2005).

10mm bore x 22mm outside dia x 20mm long. Supplier....Redhill Bearings , The White House, Brighton Rd, Handcross , RH17 6BZ
Tel no.01444 400900. I haven't checked to see if they are still in buisness but guess it would be available from any good bearing supplier.

I can't remember how I fitted it exactly but the letter mentions using a couple of washers, one either side . I know it was easy to push out the
old bush and press in the new bearing and it made a vast difference to the pedal action.

Regards

Steve


Not sure if this is the same article to which Steve refers but it shows the rollers for the pedal as well as the fix for another couple potential problems, my bearings came from Redhill as well but under part number NK110/20, back in 2006 these cost about 5.50 each + P&P. but I don't rember using anything else other than the new bearings and whatever there was with the old set up minus the nylon rollers.

Brian
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* img520.pdf (97.03 KB - downloaded 93 times.)
« Last Edit: 12 May, 2012, 08:05:50 AM by fay66 » Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
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kernow
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« Reply #23 on: 12 May, 2012, 08:47:23 AM »

Cheers Guys, that's brilliant - and thanks for the pdf. I'm going to check out the bushes on the pedal this weekend. I know a bearings man.

Hi Colin, thanks for the image - the pressure gauge does fluctuate with revs, but if I were cruising at 4k revs the needle would only be about a third up the gauge, maybe 35 to 40. My old Alfa's would of typically read 55. Is there an easy way of checking the chain oil feed nozzle?

Thanks for all the advice - I thought when I bought the Fulvia there'd be a lot of "transferable skills/knowledge" - seems the two marques did things very differently. Have to say, and it's only on first impressions - I thought the Giulia was a great car but loved the feel and sound of the Fulvia even more (and don't get me started on the Zagato seats Cheesy)

Cheers

Chris
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #24 on: 12 May, 2012, 09:10:19 AM »

Oil feed nozzle.  I think the easiest way to check the condition of this is to remove the cam cover and look downwards to  find the area immediately above the front main bearing and crankshaft   pulley wheel for the timing chain.there should be a tapered spout not dissimilar to that of an oiling can.richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #25 on: 12 May, 2012, 10:57:22 AM »

Hi Brian , Chris

Yes it was that one... indirectly! The letter was written in reply to that article by Doug Ellis. He had tried / checked a few
things mentioned in the article and then come up with an additional solution of the roller bearing to replace the bush ,
listed as 'the nylon bushing' in the pdf diagram. That was the only one I changed , imagine how smooth it must be if you change
them all !

Steve
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ncundy
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« Reply #26 on: 12 May, 2012, 11:13:15 AM »

.... but there was a common story that because the timing chain tensioner was pressure-fed then with low pressure at tick-over there was a risk of the chain jumping a tooth and wrecking the engine. Can this be true I wonder, and if so, is it true for Fulvias too?

Colin


Looking at the size of the feed orifice in the tensioner I suspect the oil is there to provide dampening, with the spring to provide the tension. The springs can weaken and a common trick is to put a small ball bearing under it.
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kernow
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« Reply #27 on: 12 May, 2012, 03:00:32 PM »

Managed two short runs today. The brakes are easing off - think we've narrowed it down to sticking pistons in the calipers which I'm hoping will ease off now the car is getting some use. Oil pressure seems strong when cold and then less when the engine's hot, will investigate the oil feed nozzle but is it worth trying a different viscosity of oil? Is 10/40 at the moment.

It is still venting steam through the pressure release pipe, though only for a couple of minutes. Fan did come on reversing into the drive and letting the car idle after the second run. However, the seal on the cap seems shot (see image) so thinking this is probably the culprit? Is the seal an easy find? As you can see water level has really dropped - was above the core, now below. Have checked oil level which is fine and no mayonnaise so suspect seal rather than head gasket...

Cheers

Chris


* Cap.jpg (403.9 KB, 480x640 - viewed 128 times.)
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fay66
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« Reply #28 on: 12 May, 2012, 05:18:27 PM »

Managed two short runs today. The brakes are easing off - think we've narrowed it down to sticking pistons in the calipers which I'm hoping will ease off now the car is getting some use. Oil pressure seems strong when cold and then less when the engine's hot, will investigate the oil feed nozzle but is it worth trying a different viscosity of oil? Is 10/40 at the moment.

It is still venting steam through the pressure release pipe, though only for a couple of minutes. Fan did come on reversing into the drive and letting the car idle after the second run. However, the seal on the cap seems shot (see image) so thinking this is probably the culprit? Is the seal an easy find? As you can see water level has really dropped - was above the core, now below. Have checked oil level which is fine and no mayonnaise so suspect seal rather than head gasket...

Cheers

Chris

Chris, was is the temperature gauge reading?
Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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fay66
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« Reply #29 on: 12 May, 2012, 05:21:52 PM »

Hi Brian , Chris

Yes it was that one... indirectly! The letter was written in reply to that article by Doug Ellis. He had tried / checked a few
things mentioned in the article and then come up with an additional solution of the roller bearing to replace the bush ,
listed as 'the nylon bushing' in the pdf diagram. That was the only one I changed , imagine how smooth it must be if you change
them all !

Steve
Steve,
I only changed the bearings under the pedal and I've been very happy since, but as you say if you changed all of them it should make for a lovely pedal action.

Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
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