lancialulu
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« Reply #30 on: 27 December, 2011, 06:15:09 PM » |
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This is the data for Fulvia rear springs from the concise repair shop manual
The S2 Tavola only shows 2 part numbers for coupe sport and HF1600 - one for the two silent block spring and one for thesingle silent block (at rear) spring. This latter spring bolts to a pivoting assembly at the front. this ties in with the S1 1.6 HF (Fanalone) having a different (lower and stiffer) rear spring but with only one silent block like S1's generally. Rodney I believe has a S3 with the same as later S2 two silent blocks? Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart? Lancias: 1955 Aurelia B12 1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR 1972 Fulvia 1600HF 1972 Fulvia Sport 1600 1983 HPE VX 1988 Delta 1.6GTie 1998 Zeta 21. 12v
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ncundy
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« Reply #31 on: 27 December, 2011, 07:53:42 PM » |
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There's very little difference in the spring rates, and fortunately nothing special about fanalone springs; rear: 250kg/156mm (fanalone & all S1 coupes) 255kg/156mm (all S2/3 coupes) but big difference in camber (no load) 120mm (fanalone and S1 coupes) 138mm (S2/3 coupes) I know some one who used these for some springs (not a lancia) and thought they were good: http://www.midlandroadsprings.co.uk/da/86559
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1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
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rodney3010
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« Reply #32 on: 27 December, 2011, 08:16:28 PM » |
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Thanks for all the information gents. Tim is correct, mine is the S3. I've had a quote from Cavalitto and will compare with the UK suppliers (thanks for the midlandroad springs contact) but note the comments re UK steel spec not being up to scratch Rodders
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LanciAlan
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« Reply #33 on: 28 December, 2011, 01:35:10 AM » |
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but big difference in camber (no load) 120mm (fanalone and S1 coupes) 138mm (S2/3 coupes)
Is that rear camber? I had heard of this but never looked into it - something about the rear axle beam on all 1600 cars being different (as this is the only way the rear camber could vary). It would be interesting if, as your data suggests, and depending on whether it is positive or negative camber, all S1 rear axles have this characteristic. Assuming it is positive (inward leaning wheel) camber, that would make the substitution of S1 axles into later cars possibly a desirable modification for handling purposes? Alan
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Alan Murphy
Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
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ncundy
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« Reply #34 on: 28 December, 2011, 09:38:56 AM » |
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Alan, my post was a bit misleading, sorry I meant vertical spring camber, when the spring is on the bench with no load applied - not wheel camber on the car. The rear axles on the HF's (1.2, 1.3 & 1.6) are different but not geometrically. The ends are aluminium on the HF's which saves about 5kg. Neither has any camber at the rear, and both have a slight touch of toe in: 12 - 16 minutes.
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1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
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LanciAlan
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« Reply #35 on: 28 December, 2011, 11:47:34 AM » |
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thanks. I left engineering college after the first term of year 1 (too much maths!) but I guess you mean the dimension of 3.6" indicated as camber below (on an MG spring). I imagine the same 18mm S1/S2 differential you have highlighted would also apply to the equivalent Lancia dimensions indicated as arch and overall height.
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« Last Edit: 28 December, 2011, 12:06:39 PM by LanciAlan »
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Alan Murphy
Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
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Kevin MacBride
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« Reply #36 on: 28 December, 2011, 07:28:37 PM » |
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Alan, you should have stayed at college a little longer....negative camber in the wheel leaning inwards, postitive is outwards. Altering rear camber on a rear solid axle of a front wheel drive car will not really aid in handling, which is probably why the camber rate is zero. Toe in (or out) would alter the handling effect.
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B20 4th series (having a 'facelift')
2000 sedan Fiat Multipla Fiat Cinquecento
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rodney3010
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« Reply #37 on: 28 December, 2011, 08:22:55 PM » |
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As a postscript for all those considering attempting this for the first time, be aware that when undoing the rear shackles, its not enough to undo the topmost shackle pin and expect the whole thing to come free. The shackle itself has a lip that fits into the hole in the bodywork which whilst not overly large is enough to keep the shackle in place (unless I missed something). My suggestion would therefore be to undo the bottom ones first - even if these are the more difficult ones due to rusted locking pins refusing to come free! Rodders PS if anyone has a couple of shackles and shackle pins not affected by a grinder I would be happy to contribute to a New Years Eve fund.
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lancialulu
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« Reply #38 on: 28 December, 2011, 09:45:53 PM » |
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Try Omicron for shackles and pins and silent blocks but dont expect us to contribute.....
Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart? Lancias: 1955 Aurelia B12 1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR 1972 Fulvia 1600HF 1972 Fulvia Sport 1600 1983 HPE VX 1988 Delta 1.6GTie 1998 Zeta 21. 12v
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rodney3010
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« Reply #39 on: 29 December, 2011, 03:54:33 PM » |
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I wasn't asking for a contribution, I was enquiring if anybody had any for sale.
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lancialulu
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« Reply #40 on: 29 December, 2011, 05:49:18 PM » |
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Rodney - sorry it was a poor joke!!! I think I bought 3 shackles on ebay once but havnt seen any come up recently. I see spitline.com (pitline) has some. http://spitline.com/scheda.asp?id=12410Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart? Lancias: 1955 Aurelia B12 1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR 1972 Fulvia 1600HF 1972 Fulvia Sport 1600 1983 HPE VX 1988 Delta 1.6GTie 1998 Zeta 21. 12v
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