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Author Topic: Fulvia Leaf Spring  (Read 3851 times)
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Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #15 on: 19 July, 2011, 08:30:00 PM »

Hi Richard
It was pretty straight forward, but will be a lot easier if I have to do it again as I ended up doing some things twice (adjusting the length of studding used to compress the spring etc) and the first time I released the tension of the spring it locked on the upper swinging arm so I had to compress it again and remove the arm un compress the spring again.
 
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fay66
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« Reply #16 on: 19 July, 2011, 10:43:17 PM »

Hi Richard
It was pretty straight forward, but will be a lot easier if I have to do it again as I ended up doing some things twice (adjusting the length of studding used to compress the spring etc) and the first time I released the tension of the spring it locked on the upper swinging arm so I had to compress it again and remove the arm un compress the spring again.
 

Nick,
Any photos of the special tool/tools you used and a description of the job please?


Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #17 on: 20 July, 2011, 06:08:29 AM »

hi Nick,the pic shows a subframe and associated components not attached to a car.i assume spring work was easier like this.was it much trickier on the actual car?how many suspension parts did you have to remove to get the spring into complete repose.i too have done the job described but not with the car assembled.i am pleased you achieved your desired front rideheight at the first fitting with no need to repeat the exercise!best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #18 on: 20 July, 2011, 08:08:17 PM »

Hi Brian and Richard
As regards to special tools I used 10mm studding and unistrut to compress the spring, the main difference of having the subframe removed is replacing the 8 bolts below the coil which would be a lot easier. 
1. Take the battery out - remove the bonnet
2. Remove the complete coil and support
3. Remove the 8 bolts and u shape metal that clamp the spring in the middle (below the coil)
4. Jack up the car
5. Remove both wheels and one shock absorber (to make room for the clamp)
6. Compress the spring with unistrut / studding clamp
7. When the pressure is off remove the silent block
8. Take off the top swinging arm (you might need to remove the horn as the long bolt clashes with it)
9. Slowly lower the clamp and spring
10. Remove the silent block from the other side
11. Draw out the spring
12. To replace it is the reverse, but is a bit fiddly fitting the centre bracket and 8 bolts
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fay66
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« Reply #19 on: 21 July, 2011, 12:47:03 AM »

Nick,
Many thanks.

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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roddy
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« Reply #20 on: 22 July, 2011, 07:11:24 PM »

Nick

That's an interesting bracing piece across the inner wing seam, just above the brake pipe couplings.

Has anyone else had this done on their Fulvia, in addition to welding up the seam (which loves to split apart, especially on 1600 cars) ?

Regards - Roddy
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Roddy Young
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1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
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Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #21 on: 22 July, 2011, 08:55:23 PM »

Hi Roddy
The car was race prepped and ran in the HSCC for a couple of years so it was probably done then, I have another car with some really substantial bracing that I believe was fitted by Evolution Engineering.
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HF_Dave
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« Reply #22 on: 22 July, 2011, 11:18:22 PM »

I have the same size tyre on my Fulvia but it sits very high. It's a series 2 1.3 , would I get the same result if I changed the spring on the 1.3 ? I have a series 1 spring in my parts collection  Thanks David. Smiley
« Last Edit: 22 July, 2011, 11:20:21 PM by HF_Dave » Logged

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fay66
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« Reply #23 on: 22 July, 2011, 11:58:06 PM »

Hi Roddy
The car was race prepped and ran in the HSCC for a couple of years so it was probably done then, I have another car with some really substantial bracing that I believe was fitted by Evolution Engineering.

Crikey,
Looks like someone let Chugga loose on it Grin

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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LanciAlan
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« Reply #24 on: 23 July, 2011, 07:13:57 AM »

Hi Brian and Richard
As regards to special tools I used 10mm studding and unistrut to compress the spring, the main difference of having the subframe removed is replacing the 8 bolts below the coil which would be a lot easier.  
1. Take the battery out - remove the bonnet
2. Remove the complete coil and support
3. Remove the 8 bolts and u shape metal that clamp the spring in the middle (below the coil)
4. Jack up the car
5. Remove both wheels and one shock absorber (to make room for the clamp)
6. Compress the spring with unistrut / studding clamp
7. When the pressure is off remove the silent block
8. Take off the top swinging arm (you might need to remove the horn as the long bolt clashes with it)
9. Slowly lower the clamp and spring
10. Remove the silent block from the other side
11. Draw out the spring
12. To replace it is the reverse, but is a bit fiddly fitting the centre bracket and 8 bolts

Nice description - I admire your economy of words. You could even have done it in 10! I know this is the approved method but did centering (?) the spring present any issues as you re-fit it in a slightly asymetrical position and re-tension it from only one side before finally fixing at the centre bracket?

And whats the formula for lowering the rear - remove a leaf? I read this in the Zagato Competizione book.
« Last Edit: 23 July, 2011, 07:18:30 AM by LanciAlan » Logged

Alan Murphy

Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #25 on: 23 July, 2011, 02:26:49 PM »

Thanks Alan
Like to be brief and to the point, and yes it was a real pain re fitting the spring (in a slightly asymetrical position and re-tension etc) I just kept easing it towards the locating hole with blocks of wood and big screwdriver until it finally clipped in the locating hole.

As for the rear springs I bought some that have been re-cambered.

And now for my next post, how to re build a 1600 HF engine in ten steps.
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