Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #15 on: 19 July, 2011, 08:30:00 PM » |
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Hi Richard It was pretty straight forward, but will be a lot easier if I have to do it again as I ended up doing some things twice (adjusting the length of studding used to compress the spring etc) and the first time I released the tension of the spring it locked on the upper swinging arm so I had to compress it again and remove the arm un compress the spring again.
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fay66
Permanent resident
Posts: 6191
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« Reply #16 on: 19 July, 2011, 10:43:17 PM » |
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Hi Richard It was pretty straight forward, but will be a lot easier if I have to do it again as I ended up doing some things twice (adjusting the length of studding used to compress the spring etc) and the first time I released the tension of the spring it locked on the upper swinging arm so I had to compress it again and remove the arm un compress the spring again.
Nick, Any photos of the special tool/tools you used and a description of the job please? Brian 8227
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay" 2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer Dedra Technical Adviser
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Richard Fridd
Permanent resident
Posts: 3434
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« Reply #17 on: 20 July, 2011, 06:08:29 AM » |
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hi Nick,the pic shows a subframe and associated components not attached to a car.i assume spring work was easier like this.was it much trickier on the actual car?how many suspension parts did you have to remove to get the spring into complete repose.i too have done the job described but not with the car assembled.i am pleased you achieved your desired front rideheight at the first fitting with no need to repeat the exercise!best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd Happy Lancia, Happy Life
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Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #18 on: 20 July, 2011, 08:08:17 PM » |
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Hi Brian and Richard As regards to special tools I used 10mm studding and unistrut to compress the spring, the main difference of having the subframe removed is replacing the 8 bolts below the coil which would be a lot easier. 1. Take the battery out - remove the bonnet 2. Remove the complete coil and support 3. Remove the 8 bolts and u shape metal that clamp the spring in the middle (below the coil) 4. Jack up the car 5. Remove both wheels and one shock absorber (to make room for the clamp) 6. Compress the spring with unistrut / studding clamp 7. When the pressure is off remove the silent block 8. Take off the top swinging arm (you might need to remove the horn as the long bolt clashes with it) 9. Slowly lower the clamp and spring 10. Remove the silent block from the other side 11. Draw out the spring 12. To replace it is the reverse, but is a bit fiddly fitting the centre bracket and 8 bolts
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fay66
Permanent resident
Posts: 6191
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« Reply #19 on: 21 July, 2011, 12:47:03 AM » |
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Nick, Many thanks. Brian 8227
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay" 2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer Dedra Technical Adviser
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roddy
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« Reply #20 on: 22 July, 2011, 07:11:24 PM » |
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Nick
That's an interesting bracing piece across the inner wing seam, just above the brake pipe couplings.
Has anyone else had this done on their Fulvia, in addition to welding up the seam (which loves to split apart, especially on 1600 cars) ?
Regards - Roddy
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Roddy Young Dunfermline, Fife
1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
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Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #21 on: 22 July, 2011, 08:55:23 PM » |
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Hi Roddy The car was race prepped and ran in the HSCC for a couple of years so it was probably done then, I have another car with some really substantial bracing that I believe was fitted by Evolution Engineering.
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HF_Dave
Megaposter
Posts: 489
Rust , What Rust !! I don't See any rust !!!
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« Reply #22 on: 22 July, 2011, 11:18:22 PM » |
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I have the same size tyre on my Fulvia but it sits very high. It's a series 2 1.3 , would I get the same result if I changed the spring on the 1.3 ? I have a series 1 spring in my parts collection Thanks David.
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« Last Edit: 22 July, 2011, 11:20:21 PM by HF_Dave »
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My Current Cars:
1991 Thema station wagon 1989 Thema 16v 2011 Lancia Delta 3
1977 Beta sedan 2000 1975 Fulvia S3 1.3 1973 Flavia HF 2000 Coupe 1972 Fulvia S2 1.3 1989 Thema 8.32 **Other Makes** 2018 Alfa Giulia 1999 Alfa 156 2009 Fiat Du
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fay66
Permanent resident
Posts: 6191
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« Reply #23 on: 22 July, 2011, 11:58:06 PM » |
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Hi Roddy The car was race prepped and ran in the HSCC for a couple of years so it was probably done then, I have another car with some really substantial bracing that I believe was fitted by Evolution Engineering.
Crikey, Looks like someone let Chugga loose on it Brian 8227
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay" 2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer Dedra Technical Adviser
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LanciAlan
Megaposter
Posts: 379
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« Reply #24 on: 23 July, 2011, 07:13:57 AM » |
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Hi Brian and Richard As regards to special tools I used 10mm studding and unistrut to compress the spring, the main difference of having the subframe removed is replacing the 8 bolts below the coil which would be a lot easier. 1. Take the battery out - remove the bonnet 2. Remove the complete coil and support 3. Remove the 8 bolts and u shape metal that clamp the spring in the middle (below the coil) 4. Jack up the car 5. Remove both wheels and one shock absorber (to make room for the clamp) 6. Compress the spring with unistrut / studding clamp 7. When the pressure is off remove the silent block 8. Take off the top swinging arm (you might need to remove the horn as the long bolt clashes with it) 9. Slowly lower the clamp and spring 10. Remove the silent block from the other side 11. Draw out the spring 12. To replace it is the reverse, but is a bit fiddly fitting the centre bracket and 8 bolts
Nice description - I admire your economy of words. You could even have done it in 10! I know this is the approved method but did centering (?) the spring present any issues as you re-fit it in a slightly asymetrical position and re-tension it from only one side before finally fixing at the centre bracket? And whats the formula for lowering the rear - remove a leaf? I read this in the Zagato Competizione book.
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« Last Edit: 23 July, 2011, 07:18:30 AM by LanciAlan »
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Alan Murphy
Lancias that begin with "F" ... and affordable variants beginning with "Z" and "P" ..... and now with added "Y"!
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Nick Gramaglia
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« Reply #25 on: 23 July, 2011, 02:26:49 PM » |
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Thanks Alan Like to be brief and to the point, and yes it was a real pain re fitting the spring (in a slightly asymetrical position and re-tension etc) I just kept easing it towards the locating hole with blocks of wood and big screwdriver until it finally clipped in the locating hole.
As for the rear springs I bought some that have been re-cambered.
And now for my next post, how to re build a 1600 HF engine in ten steps.
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