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Author Topic: wax injection  (Read 2204 times)
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Richard Fridd
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« on: 15 September, 2010, 06:01:03 AM »

now that my new saloon sills/boxes are being fitted i will need to treat them internally.if anyone can recommend a product i would be grateful.i do have some waxoyl surplus from the last job i think.some people talk of home brewed preperations using old engine oil etc.but it has been pointed out to me that oil is hydroscopic.having said that any unintentionally oily surfaces do not seem to suffer!best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #1 on: 15 September, 2010, 07:20:24 AM »

Richard I have heard only good things about Waxoyl as we don't have a huge corrosion problem here in SA.
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Guy McDougall
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Scott
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« Reply #2 on: 15 September, 2010, 07:50:03 AM »

There's nothing wrong with some good ol' Wayoyl. Easy to come by and some protection is better than none.
However you might like to consider Dinitrol products - I seem to remember from a comparison test that they came out on top in terms of longevity and ease of use.
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ncundy
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« Reply #3 on: 15 September, 2010, 08:03:07 AM »

I've used both and I found Dinatrol easier to apply:

http://www.rust.co.uk/
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chugga boom
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« Reply #4 on: 15 September, 2010, 08:50:57 AM »

always used waxoil until recently, now i use wurth caverty wax as its much thinner and solidifies on cotact with the steel, it really does creap between all of the seams and runs ot everywhere, if its good enough for bmw then its ok for me  Grin if you look on my topic of fulvia project you can see it in the doors
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #5 on: 15 September, 2010, 09:16:49 AM »

thanks chaps.is it necessary to apply these warm/hot?.just thinking back 20 years to an incident involving a full can and an oven which never smelled the same again and was very unpopular with the chef!
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #6 on: 15 September, 2010, 09:56:18 AM »

waxoil always seems to need heating up to thin it out however the wurth stuff doesn't hence why i use it
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1935 augusta lusso (chugga)
1935 belna saloon
1935 augusta lusso
1938 ardenne
1939 aprilia lusso
1958 appia s2
1963 appia s3 
195? appia camioncino
1972 fulvia 1600HF
1976 fulvia coupe
194? ardea SUV  "THE BEAST!!!"
Scott
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« Reply #7 on: 15 September, 2010, 11:29:31 AM »

Yes - if you're using Waxoyl best to warm it first. It then flows better.
Just fill a bucket full of hot water and leave the Waxoyl can in there for five minutes (not that I'm suggesting you would have put it on the cooker  Wink)
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #8 on: 15 September, 2010, 05:37:25 PM »

i will try the Wurth product first and see how it goes
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Richard Nevison Fridd
fay66
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« Reply #9 on: 16 September, 2010, 12:12:47 AM »

I've used both and I found Dinatrol easier to apply:

http://www.rust.co.uk/
As I don't have a compressor, I find the arerosol cans of Dinitrol very good with different products depending on where the application is to be, you can also get a long extension tube from them for the Aerosol so that you can get into sills , door and many other hidden places, I prefer it for inside panels but have all the underside re-waxoyld every year where necessary.

Brian
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« Last Edit: 16 September, 2010, 12:14:41 AM by fay66 » Logged

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HF_Dave
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« Reply #10 on: 04 October, 2010, 10:13:58 PM »

I used Dinitrol on my 2000 HF coupe it's easy to apply with a compresser. I also bought at a car show "Rust buster" this is a clear wax type like Waxoil buth a bit smoother the only disadvantage over the Dinitrol is the colour,you can see the brown Dinitrol when you apply it inside the doors, you can also see how much and how thick you have put it on it also sets wery well, the Rust buster remains very sticky a bit like Waxoil. The big difference is the price a gallon of Rust buster is about a third cheaper than Dinitrol Smiley
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