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Author Topic: Fulvia Zagato rear valence info needed.  (Read 2927 times)
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zagatoman
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« on: 07 August, 2010, 10:11:38 PM »

Next week I will be welding the rear valance to my Zagato and just wanted a couple of bits of info.

Bill Lewis has made the superb valence and provided me with the holes for the drain tubes on each side. Question is, do the tubes come out from the holes or do I need to weld a metal tube section into the valence and attach the drain tube to this?

Also I have a large hole in the middle of the valence but donít know what this is for. Should I weld it up or is it as original, perhaps to help drainage?

Help would be greatly appreciated with words and possibly pictures.

Thanks, Paul

P.S  Anyone got a anchor rod that fits onto the hatch mechanism for a Fulvia Zagato?


* Zagato back sections.JPG (77.42 KB, 709x531 - viewed 137 times.)
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Series 1, 1.3 Fulvia Zagato 1969
Richard Fridd
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« Reply #1 on: 08 August, 2010, 05:15:06 AM »

 the outer holes do line up with the drain pipes on mine but the centre hole is missing on my car.best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #2 on: 08 August, 2010, 07:45:10 AM »

the outer holes do line up with the drain pipes on mine but the centre hole is missing on my car.best regards richard

Possibly a manufacturing tool location hole?

Brian
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« Reply #3 on: 08 August, 2010, 08:25:22 AM »

I believe I have all 3 holes but will check later today. The large bore plastic pipes exit through these outer holes by no more than a cm.

Isnt Bill fantasic, how can he do the rear valance? Has he mule for every car?? I have used him before and his workmanship is first class but bear in mind you may have to adapt your valence as your car was also hand made (to a certain extent..). When my Z was taken back to bare metal I was impressed with the 3/4 corner seem welding which needed no repair unlike the rest of the car.

Good luck

Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
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zagatoman
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« Reply #4 on: 12 August, 2010, 08:38:38 PM »

Thanks Tim

I had thoughts that the valence had a couple of metal tube sections welded into the holes that stuck out about a cm and the pipes attached to this on the inside of the valence, this just me being stupid?

Paul
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #5 on: 13 August, 2010, 06:17:37 PM »

i was thinking that but i am confusing with the bumper mountings i suppose
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #6 on: 13 August, 2010, 10:56:28 PM »

Hello Paul

It is the channel section at the back of the hatch that has short lengths of metal tube attached to the drain holes, to fit the plastic drain piping to.   The attached plastic piping then crosses over to the other side (I don't know why?), and runs down the sides of the spare wheel hatch (there are little clips attached to the hatch frame).   The pipes then go through the boot area floor and exit through the valance holes below.   As Tim says, leave about 1cm protruding.   I would also suggest that you seal round the pipes where they exit the holes with Sikaflex or similar (it will accept a body colour paint).   I do not know what a third hole in the centre of the valance will be for (neither of my cars have that), and it will probably need sealing up (?).

The Ducellier switch at the dash to raise and lower the hatch motor takes all the current to power the motor (if the o/e wiring is in place).   This is not a good idea as the switch points will arc and burn out.   If switches are available at all, they will be very expensive!   Fit in a relay (on the glove box side panel?), so that the switch is just taking a low current to activate the relay circuits.

The hatch motor steady bar that you are seeking is just an adjustable rod to take the torque as the motor beds the hatch on to the seal.   You might manage to carefully measure the centres and drill a length of flat bar to act as a bolt-on substitute?

Regards - Roddy   
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Roddy Young
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1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
Richard Fridd
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« Reply #7 on: 14 August, 2010, 06:52:14 AM »

hi Roddy,does that switch fail because it has a lower than necessary current rating or only when the lift motor draws excess current?i.e.faulty motor/wiring/limit switches.i think one way to make that bar is to use spherical rod end bearings+threaded rod.best regards richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
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« Reply #8 on: 14 August, 2010, 10:16:14 AM »

If you decide to go down the rose joint route, I've bought them from here before and had good service.
Neil
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zagatoman
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Looking a lot better


« Reply #9 on: 14 August, 2010, 05:27:40 PM »

Thanks Neil, just ordered, just what I wanted.

Paul
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« Reply #10 on: 16 August, 2010, 12:17:00 PM »

Hello Richard / Paul

Both in S1 and S2 instances, the dash switch carries the full load of current required to operate the hatch motors when the points close and the circuit is activated, and in time the points fail to carry the current load, due to arcing.   10+ years ago, I fitted in a relay in our S1, and did a sketch and explanation, that Peter Pompilii replicated in the original Zagato Register.   Here is the written part:-

" If anyone is witnessing an intermittent problem with their Fulvia S1 tailgate operation then the following modification was suggested by a Register member.   Apparently S2 tailgates are wired differently.
1  All that is needed is to put in a relay, rated at 30 amps (Lucas SRB 520 or similar), into the grey wire circuit which runs from the switch to the motor itself.

2  The relay can be mounted on the side of the glove box, and in this instance the grey wire can be uncoupled from the switch and fed onto the relay at 87 without any modification.

3  A small gauge wire can then be used to connect the switch to the relay at 86.   A much lighter current is needed to operate the points within the relay.

4  The existing black wire, which carries the feed from the fuse box at terminal 7, needs to be joined by another just as heavy gauge wire (2.5sqmm) which goes into the relay at 30 (solder and heatshrink, or sleeve two wire into one terminal connection)

4  The remaining terminal on the relay 85 then goes to earth - again a smaller gauge wire can be used. "

I hope you can follow all this, and I can vouch that it does work, and certainly prolongs the life of the switch.    Just for interest, for the same reasons I had to revise the S2 arrangement, and sourced an aftermarket switch (for just a few pounds), but this needs a bit more work as the current directions to the motor are revised, etc.

Regards - Roddy
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Roddy Young
Dunfermline, Fife

1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
Richard Fridd
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« Reply #11 on: 16 August, 2010, 03:22:02 PM »

thanks Roddy,i will have a go at that mod.Richard
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Richard Nevison Fridd
Nigel Carine
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« Reply #12 on: 16 August, 2010, 05:16:12 PM »

Hi Roddy

I own  BCX 213K Peter's old 1300s zag' , I have no evidence that he carried out this mod on that car.
I am now having the exact same trouble and notice your remark at the end of your post "etc. etc"
Do you have more info on this mod relating to series 2 cars and if so could I trouble you for the whole lot.

BTW the car is now getting a bit "crinkley" and seeing so many people are restoring their Zags I am contemplating a full resto ( when the other two cars are done!!!!) but it still reliable and is the one to choose when an "on the spur" classic ride is required.

Regards

Nigel

Sorry to pinch your thread Paul
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roddy
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« Reply #13 on: 16 August, 2010, 10:38:40 PM »

Hello Nigel

I will send you a PM about this.

Regards - Roddy
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Roddy Young
Dunfermline, Fife

1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
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« Reply #14 on: 28 August, 2010, 11:16:20 AM »

Roddy

Do you have details of the S2 mod ... I'm rewiring mine at present and would be interested in the details

Richard
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