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Author Topic: Heater cables  (Read 1112 times)
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Philm
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« on: 23 December, 2009, 02:05:23 PM »

I am in the midst of rebuilding my heater and controls and I am looking for a source for the control cables. Does anyone have any tips?


Thanks,
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ncundy
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« Reply #1 on: 23 December, 2009, 02:46:55 PM »

In the past when looking for something similar I have used cables for mountain bikes (brakes or gears). Cheap and you can get very good quality stuff that is designed to take all kinds of punishment and dirt. I've used some for the door cables on my car which I got from Halfords. You will probably have to make up some end crimps.


http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchCmd?srch=cable&x=0&y=0&action=search&storeId=10001&catalogId=10151&langId=-1

Neil
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1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
Richard Fridd
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« Reply #2 on: 23 December, 2009, 02:51:59 PM »

airworld uk 01296714900 look inexpensive. will you be using the 'hard' or the more flexible type of bowden cable?incidently has anyone ever got a great deal of heat from a fulvia of any kind?
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Richard Nevison Fridd
lancialulu
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« Reply #3 on: 23 December, 2009, 03:18:41 PM »

Re heater output. I have found a new valve gets a great result as the old one closes up due to corrosion preventing full flow.

On cables the classic failure on the heater control cable is that the stiff inner bends due to mechanical inneficiency of the route and tryint to open a stiff valve with minimial leverage at the valve end. Ie lub the valve and set up with stiffest inner cable.
Tim
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia HFR
1972 1600 HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1978 Transformer HF3000 Strato's replica
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi.e.
Philm
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« Reply #4 on: 23 December, 2009, 03:43:28 PM »

I think (and as usual I may be wrong Grin) that the heater cables need to be solid as they have no end ferrules and so have to push as well as pull. It it this pushing I suspect that often kinks them.
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roddy
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« Reply #5 on: 23 December, 2009, 05:04:16 PM »

Yes, Phil, you are correct.   There is not a clamping mechanism on the dash-board levers, just a small drilling in the arm.   The rigid wire has a double kink, which locates in the drilling in each lever.   A common problem is with the upper leaver which has to push/pull the water valve, and the plastic end of the lever snaps off.   Rebuild the lever spindle mechanism, using a spare bottom arm (which needs little leverage to control the chip vents baffle), and turn it upside down and use as a top arm.   They are the same, and the dash now looks perfect!

Regards - Roddy
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Roddy Young
Dunfermline, Fife

1970 Fulvia Sport S1 1.3S
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
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