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Author Topic: more questions.  (Read 1575 times)
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bill
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« on: 03 June, 2009, 04:37:24 PM »

hello once more, first of all many, many thanks for all the help, it is really appreciated.

first ques. what size is the allan key for the sump plug. ?

is it possible to buy sets of plug leads or do you have to buy various ones? to make a set
 up.

how do you remove the rotor arm does it just pull off?

finally( for today) can any one explain the round crankcase filter is it poss. to remove it for cleaning?

I have the rad. fitted along with new hoses and clips looks good.

thank you once more bill.
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ncundy
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« Reply #1 on: 03 June, 2009, 05:26:59 PM »

You can buy sets of plug leads from Omicron.

By the round crank filter I assume you mean the pancake head on the oil pump pick up in the sump?
The gause on the head is kept in place by 10 (?) screws. Just undo them and take the gause off to clean. The whole pick up assembly is bolted to the centre main cap (2x) and the oil pump flange (2x). It is worth checking the whole assembly as sometimes the bolts come loose and the weight of the head vibrating around can crack the bracket or worse the pick-up pipe with predictable results.

The oil pump flange join has a gasket, if you haven't got one I would suggest just checking for joint integrity and cracks in situ.

Cleaning the filter gause and the sump is a good thing to do !
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Richard Fridd
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« Reply #2 on: 03 June, 2009, 05:45:25 PM »

allen key reqd. is 17mm i think
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Richard Nevison Fridd
bill
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« Reply #3 on: 03 June, 2009, 06:40:59 PM »

hi, I may have mislead you, the part which I thought was the crankcase filter. this is the round canister and the pipe from this goes into the air filter. it is between the distributor and the battery.

thank you.

bill.
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lancialulu
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« Reply #4 on: 03 June, 2009, 07:02:38 PM »

Bill

That part is not able to be cleaned without cutting open round the top. I would not advised any form of cleaning as this is one of the design weakness areas as the mesh inside the canister tends to corrode - especially if the car has little use and resultant debris drops into the engine and the rest I leave to your imagination. Omicron (no I nor Neil are on commission!) do an exchange which has had the mesh replaced with stainless. Well worth doing.

Interestingly the other crankcase filter assembly in the sump the Neil talked about is another design weakness. On my HF this had stripped the tiny allen bolts out of the block that hold the oil feed pipe up to the oil pump. They had already been repaired by timesert inserts but as the block was ally I had to find a bigger insert. Fingers crossed this is now behind me. So if you are dropping the sump it is an area worth checking.

For an allen key I used hex bolt and locked up nuts. Again Omicron do a hex version to make life easier if not sticking to the original design!

Tim
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ncundy
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« Reply #5 on: 03 June, 2009, 09:36:29 PM »

Omicron (no I nor Neil are on commission!)................
Tim

Given what I've spent there recently I ought to be  Grin
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fay66
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« Reply #6 on: 04 June, 2009, 12:43:29 AM »

hi, I may have mislead you, the part which I thought was the crankcase filter. this is the round canister and the pipe from this goes into the air filter. it is between the distributor and the battery.

thank you.

bill.

The early Fulvia Berlinas such as my 2c registered 1/1/1966, so probably built around mid 1965, doesn't have the canister crankcase filter, just a filler cap on a much smaller Alloy casting, even after my engine rebuild I've always dripped oil from the breather tube, as did a Morris 1000 convertible and many other cars that I've owned over the years did; so I would suspect the changeover to the canister filter was brought about to overcome this problem.
Do Omicron sell these without an exchange item? I don't want to change "fays" originality but I could do without the oil drips, even if they do preserve the underside Roll Eyes

Brian
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« Reply #7 on: 04 June, 2009, 07:45:54 PM »

Hi Bill,

I think the sump plug is a 14mm hex from memory.

Jai
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