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Author Topic: Handbrake, what handbrake?  (Read 6843 times)
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lee69
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« on: 18 June, 2008, 07:34:45 PM »

I'm sure I'm going to appear like a complete Fulvia novice, which I am, but can anyone tell what I have to do to improve the relative non-existent handbrake performance on my 2C.  I heard that it operates off weeny little pads and that they're pretty ineffective in the first place.  the MOT is due later this year and I'm not sure what jobs/expense I need to prepare myself for?  Had a few scary moments on the Giro with Tony's shiny Beta Coupe behind me on inclined T-junctions!

Lee
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fay66
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Posts: 6189



« Reply #1 on: 19 June, 2008, 01:04:59 AM »

Hi Lee,
Shouldn't really be a problem with your handbrake, must admit mine has always had long travel but it will stop the car quite effectively on it's own.
It has a seperate set of pads for the handbrake that are adjusted sperately, big problem with the Series 1 brakes are that they must be kept up to scratch and clean other wise they seize.
If you take a rear wheel off, or even use a light shining through one of the ventilation slots in the wheel you will see a big adjuster bolt with a slotted screw head that you turn clockwise (if it's not seized) until the pads contact the disc, then back off one third to one half a turn to give minimal clearance.repeat for other side. Be very careful with this, Undecided if you have a problem with it not turning, DO NOT FORCE Shocked strip & clean.
Brian
8227 Cool
PS. The pads aren't that weeny, have you ever seen the 10p piece size ones on a 2CV Grin


* img692. another one jpg.jpg (191.96 KB, 700x962 - viewed 952 times.)
« Last Edit: 19 June, 2008, 01:08:19 AM by fay66 » Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
lee69
Guest
« Reply #2 on: 19 June, 2008, 07:16:35 PM »

Thanks for that Brian!

A job for a sunny day next week, I think.

Isn't this forum great?

Lee
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peterbaker
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www.retro-speed.co.uk


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« Reply #3 on: 19 June, 2008, 07:42:02 PM »

Series One handbrakes. Cables stretch. Jack up rear and support. get underneath with lamp and identify back of hub where cable is attached. See here the cable is held by a clamp where it folds. Release clamp and pull cable further through to take up slack. This will be difficult as cable will want to return to original position. Dont give in. Tighten clamp. Now move to side of vehicle (after releasing jack) and raise car so you can reach pair of nuts near front of cable. Liberally dose with WD40. Undo one then follow it with other until cable slack is taken up and ratchet only raises three clicks inside car. This my old car so it might work. Good luck
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1961 Lancia Flavia 1.5 Berlina. FIAT Abarth. 1954 Daimler Conquest. 2003 MG ZT-T 135. 1998 SAAB 9-5 3 litre turbo.
fay66
Permanent resident
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Posts: 6189



« Reply #4 on: 19 June, 2008, 10:43:32 PM »

Series One handbrakes. Cables stretch. Jack up rear and support. get underneath with lamp and identify back of hub where cable is attached. See here the cable is held by a clamp where it folds. Release clamp and pull cable further through to take up slack. This will be difficult as cable will want to return to original position. Dont give in. Tighten clamp. Now move to side of vehicle (after releasing jack) and raise car so you can reach pair of nuts near front of cable. Liberally dose with WD40. Undo one then follow it with other until cable slack is taken up and ratchet only raises three clicks inside car. This my old car so it might work. Good luck

Hi Lee,
This might Help.
Brian
8227 Cool


* Fulvia Series 1 Handbrake cable.1jpg.jpg (214.98 KB, 900x1237 - viewed 1517 times.)
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
Peter Gerrish
Member
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Posts: 13


« Reply #5 on: 23 July, 2008, 09:13:23 AM »

S1 Handbrakes only work well if A. all the working parts move freely (strip the mechanical bits and ressemble with copperslip or similar after scraping off all the corrosion from pins, links etc) B The cables are free, they can seize or partly so but at least with no nipples on cable ends these can be removed and greased or replaced with Stainless boat rigging cables.  After this you adjust until locking, then just back off untill still slightly rubbing. Repeat adjustment regularly, you will need to if you use the car much!  Peter Gerrish
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