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Author Topic: Flaminia PF Coupe resto  (Read 8127 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
DavidG
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Posts: 31


« Reply #60 on: 31 January, 2024, 06:22:37 PM »

I have been looking for a piece of tube for exactly this purpose but until now not found anything - probably because I had been searching for 10mm ID.

Having watched this video I had another look but for 11mm OD and -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Stainless-Thickness-Length/dp/B09BQB9WW4?th=1

The holes for the studs are smaller than 11mm, and the studs rarely sit in the centre of the holes, so I will probably need to skim a little off the outside, but worth a go.

Thanks Mitka!
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #61 on: 31 January, 2024, 07:51:26 PM »

Hi all
Flaminia head 1 Slow but rough 0
We have reached an impasse as the immovable object just goes up one end and down the other and vice versa to make things worse it is ripping the threads out of the nuts fastened to the rocker mount studs usually with a loud bang. The plan is to make some additional brackets and bolt these to the plate and the exhaust manifold studs. I'll use the 5mm plate from failed previous attempt. The main problem seems to be you can't wack the head direct with the club hammer and as it is on the engine stand it wobbles around as you wack it whilst hanging on to it and holding a piece of wood between the head and the club hammer.
Clarkey


* sans exhaust manifold.jpg (451.47 KB, 2000x1500 - viewed 12 times.)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Kevinlincs
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Posts: 1549


« Reply #62 on: 31 January, 2024, 08:52:22 PM »

Now you've got a decent gap maybe you could use some hardwood wedges to help lift the head up?
Some hardwood placed on the block face and head face then another thiny tapered wedge piece could be hammered in between to put a sperating force in the space between head and block, the hardwood protecting the faces from damage as they wouldn't actually be getting anything more than a helping hand tring to lift and seperate.
It would help take all the strain off  the plate and could be used in multiple positions to gradually and carefully prise the two apart in a controlled manor..
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Flavia 815 coupe
Dedra turbo
Delta integrale
Dave Gee
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Posts: 219


« Reply #63 on: 01 February, 2024, 09:09:59 AM »

 
 I would use a saw to cut all the studs, then drift the studs out of the head. To aid removal, weld the nuts to the top of the studs in the block. The heat from welding would then aid in their removal.
 Dave Gee
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DavidG
Member
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Posts: 31


« Reply #64 on: 01 February, 2024, 11:12:15 AM »

I have been looking for a piece of tube for exactly this purpose but until now not found anything - probably because I had been searching for 10mm ID.

Having watched this video I had another look but for 11mm OD and -

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Stainless-Thickness-Length/dp/B09BQB9WW4?th=1

The holes for the studs are smaller than 11mm, and the studs rarely sit in the centre of the holes, so I will probably need to skim a little off the outside, but worth a go.

Thanks Mitka!

Following on from that I had a look through my scrap box and found a piece of stainless tube with a 10.1mm (ish) ID and what looks like 1/2" OD. No idea what grade but thought I would have a go at turning the outside down. It turned out to be not nearly as hard as I thought and I have ended up with a 0.3mm wall. I will give it a go later.



* P_20240201_110051.jpg (207.76 KB, 615x820 - viewed 15 times.)
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DavidG
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Posts: 31


« Reply #65 on: 01 February, 2024, 02:20:03 PM »

Well that seems to work!

I'll add more detail on my own thread, so as not to clog up yours Clarkey.
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lancianut666
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Posts: 1674


Slow but rough


« Reply #66 on: 02 February, 2024, 05:14:16 PM »

Hi all
Got the brackets fitted and made a good bit of slow but steady progress lifting the head so fingers crossed!
Clarkey


* couple of inches now.jpg (319.9 KB, 2000x1500 - viewed 15 times.)
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancianut666
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Posts: 1674


Slow but rough


« Reply #67 on: 03 February, 2024, 11:15:39 PM »

Left overnight all tight next day had slackened off so retightened and had slackened off later that same day...I might need some longer bolts.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancianut666
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Posts: 1674


Slow but rough


« Reply #68 on: 05 February, 2024, 05:26:18 PM »

Still tightening up and inching the head off.
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancianut666
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1674


Slow but rough


« Reply #69 on: 10 February, 2024, 12:14:33 PM »

Update
Managed to get the head up about two inches and then it just locked up and started bending the bolts as they were screwed down. I tried the wooden wedges but the head and block have sharp edges and just shave off the wedges. I have tried to see which of the studs are the stuck the worst by filling the gap above the stud with the acetone/auto transmission oil mix, this showed 2 on the exhaust side are clear around the stud as the fluid eventually ran through. The other 4 did not let any fluid through so I left them overnight and will go down today and have a look see. I am tempted to use some more active chemicals like coca cola, vinegar or possibly a bit of electrolysis to see if I can get the gunk out. I was talking to my mate Terry about how to prevent this in the future and we discussed greasing the shafts and such like but I was reminded of some wise words from the late Don Cross who said that if you want to stop corrosion on aluminium engines use stainless steel bolts and studs so this might be an avenue to explore as I have been quoted 130 plus vat plus duty plus postage for ordinary steel ones.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
lancialulu
Press Officer
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Posts: 4909



« Reply #70 on: 10 February, 2024, 01:52:42 PM »

Update
Managed to get the head up about two inches and then it just locked up and started bending the bolts as they were screwed down. I tried the wooden wedges but the head and block have sharp edges and just shave off the wedges. I have tried to see which of the studs are the stuck the worst by filling the gap above the stud with the acetone/auto transmission oil mix, this showed 2 on the exhaust side are clear around the stud as the fluid eventually ran through. The other 4 did not let any fluid through so I left them overnight and will go down today and have a look see. I am tempted to use some more active chemicals like coca cola, vinegar or possibly a bit of electrolysis to see if I can get the gunk out. I was talking to my mate Terry about how to prevent this in the future and we discussed greasing the shafts and such like but I was reminded of some wise words from the late Don Cross who said that if you want to stop corrosion on aluminium engines use stainless steel bolts and studs so this might be an avenue to explore as I have been quoted 130 plus vat plus duty plus postage for ordinary steel ones.
Clarkey
Stainless studs may stretch???
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
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SanRemo78
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Posts: 830



« Reply #71 on: 10 February, 2024, 02:02:03 PM »

Maybe sleeve the head with a stainless thin wall tube?

Stainless bolts won't have the same tensile strength either.

Guy
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lancianut666
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Posts: 1674


Slow but rough


« Reply #72 on: 10 February, 2024, 02:44:09 PM »

Thanks for the info on the stainless steel.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
HBG
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Posts: 219


« Reply #73 on: 11 February, 2024, 05:32:27 PM »

I'd suggest if using the timber wedge method that you need two long wedges of equal gradient driving towards each other. They should overlapped and will bear flat on the block and head, no catching of the edges. As the wedges pass over each other they will provide tremendous separating force. I used to use this method to preload some large section structural steelwork under masonry. You'll be able to use a big hammer!
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SanRemo78
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« Reply #74 on: 11 February, 2024, 06:23:51 PM »

Or four pieces of wood with the wedged ones in the middle of the sandwich? As wide as possible? Maybe two people acting in unison with a couple of lump hammers... You'll get it in the end!
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