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Author Topic: S2 fulvia assembly  (Read 7730 times)
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Keithver
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Posts: 111



« on: 26 January, 2023, 05:21:47 PM »

 The car is home after 18 months all shiny and new, looking good in Lancia Blu. Even the inspector seems impressed. Now begins the re-assembly. I hope I took enough photos before hand


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JollyClubUK
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1971 Fulvia S2 1.3s fast road spec


« Reply #1 on: 26 January, 2023, 06:33:01 PM »

Going to look amazing, many hours of reassembly I guess but itís a Labour of love.
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Wangler
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Posts: 245


« Reply #2 on: 27 January, 2023, 12:03:16 AM »

I didnít think a cat was compulsory until 1993.
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Fulvia Coupe 1976
Fulvia Coupe 3 1975
Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #3 on: 27 January, 2023, 07:03:19 AM »

Julien - a labour of love indeed. I'm glad I don't have to charge for my hours, let alone what everything has cost so far

Richard - maybe I just got lucky Smiley
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JollyClubUK
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1971 Fulvia S2 1.3s fast road spec


« Reply #4 on: 27 January, 2023, 08:19:40 AM »

Keep posting picture updates for those that need the inspiration and then once completed just enjoy your hard work.
My S2 had been in the stewardship of the previous owner for over 25 years and he certainly cherished the car.
I am out most weekends for a run and thoroughly enjoy my Fulvia.


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Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #5 on: 27 January, 2023, 12:39:30 PM »

She is a beauty and an inspiration to me. I'll keep posting progress
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ColinMarr
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« Reply #6 on: 27 January, 2023, 07:45:16 PM »

Lovely Fulvia. Cats on cars did exist in earlier times - here's one from 1967.


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« Last Edit: 27 January, 2023, 08:42:02 PM by ColinMarr » Logged
Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #7 on: 28 January, 2023, 04:13:18 PM »

Colin - best hood ornament ever!

I have completed the sound deadening on the firewall and dash areas - enough to start with the wiring. I didn't realize what hard work it would be, but careful measuring and some templates got the job done. I realize now that the pedal housing should have gone in before the steering column. Easy enough to remedy. Photo 1

I have two heater boxes. The better one of the two turns out to be more difficult to install. On the good one, the four bolts that fasten the box to the firewall are welded, two to an interior plate, per side with no way to stop the plate going back into the box when offering the box to the firewall. My solution was to grind most of the depth of four nuts away. Just enough to hold the mount bolts tight and clamp the fan to the box. Photo 2. The thick rubber gasket hides my fix. The box went in perfectly after that. I remembered to fit the two large wiring grommets on either side of the heater box, in the firewall first

I recall how difficult it was to remove the windscreen wiper mechanism and have been dreading the refitting. I removed the 3 bolts holding the motor to the mount. It gives more wiggle room. Maneuver the passenger side spindle just into the the mount hole, so you are able to see the end from above. Then do the driver's side. With a bit of jiggling I replaced the 3 motor mount bolts. You can now twist the whole contraption and get the two spindles properly seated with top rubbers, cover plate and the large lock nut holding it all in place. I cut the threads of the 'mount rubber blocks' to the correct length to make it easier to screw them into the body. Then lift the mount plate over them and fasten the whole lot up tight.

And for some quick eye candy and inspiration to get going, I fitted all the rear details. Photo 3. Bumper still to be fitted Wink


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JollyClubUK
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1971 Fulvia S2 1.3s fast road spec


« Reply #8 on: 28 January, 2023, 04:48:52 PM »

Coming along nicely thanks for sharing the update.
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andyps
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« Reply #9 on: 29 January, 2023, 07:51:57 PM »

The car is home after 18 months all shiny and new, looking good in Lancia Blu. Even the inspector seems impressed. Now begins the re-assembly. I hope I took enough photos before hand

I think if a cat walked over a freshly painted car of mine it would be looking for a new home - that cat that is, not the car!! The car looks great.
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Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #10 on: 08 April, 2023, 10:21:55 AM »

I've been on light duty for the last 8 weeks and have been taking things easy.
I started by making paper templates for the cubby hole liner and then progressed to slightly bigger tasks.
I fitted all of the electrical fittings. It wasnít the tough job I was expecting. Not knowing anything about wiring, when I disconnected everything initially, I made sure that I labeled both sides of the connector. It really made putting it all back far easier.

I struggled with the main (inner) beams.  They would just not light up. I removed the switch and re-soldered all the wires. Still no luck. Then it dawned on me. RTFM! Sure enough, clear as daylight, in the manual - how to turn on the high beams. That's that one ticked off.
The hooters were working fine until the fiddling. They now sound when I put the indicator on. I'm sure that canít be complicated to fix.

I have taped up all of the cable runs with black cloth tape to neaten up everything. There arenít any multi coloured wires visible anywhere.
Instead of spending 4Euro per cable hanger that press into the holes in the boot and bonnet gutters, I found some rubber buttons and sheet rubber and made up my own. They cost me a couple of cents each.


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Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #11 on: 08 April, 2023, 10:52:29 AM »

I will post more later, but in the mean time I have a query about wheel bearings.
I fitted new bearings to the front wheels almost two years ago. I fitted the large bearing-holding ring to the inside of the hub with a homemade tool and got them fairly tight (I will purchase the correct tool for final assembly). I also inserted the drive shafts and tightened the nut on the end so it wouldnít come loose, but nowhere near the required torque. Now that I come to inspect, it seems as if the new bearings have worn out. There is about 5 or 10mm play when I grab the top of the wheel and move it. Looking from the inside of the hub it seems as if there is movement on the inner ring of the bearing. The car was moved around the body shop while there, thatís all.
Could this have worn the bearings or have I got something else wrong. I hope so, as replacing the 2 bearings will be expensive


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lancialulu
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« Reply #12 on: 08 April, 2023, 11:22:27 AM »

The bearings only operate when fully torqued 200ftlb from memory. Both inner and outer. You need to remove the wire circlip on the inner before torquing. As the hub is on the car you should be able to apply enough effort to tighten. Failure to tighten (use a scaffold pole ore water pipe as a lever) the inner will lead to very expensive stub hub wear (were yours in un worn condition?). BTW the club hires these tools....
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
Lancias:
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia Sport 1600
1983 HPE VX
1988 Delta 1.6GTie
1998 Zeta 21.  12v
Keithver
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Posts: 111



« Reply #13 on: 08 April, 2023, 03:00:20 PM »

Thanks Tim. I'm reasonably sure that nothing is worn. Just to make sure that I understand you correctly, once I have torqued the inner hub ring (with spring clip) and the shaft outer cardan nuts, the wobble should stop. Sounds like the answer I want Smiley. I would love to hire, thanks, but I'm not in the UK.
One other thing. While in the body-shop, I went through a set of outer CV boots. I've subsequently discovered that I hadn't fastened the boots high enough on the shaft. Is their a recommended position for clamping on the shaft. I haven't been able to find a mark on the shafts for this
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JollyClubUK
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1971 Fulvia S2 1.3s fast road spec


« Reply #14 on: 08 April, 2023, 03:23:42 PM »

Slow and steady wins the race, great to see more progress thanks for sharing.
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