rear wheel bearing

[DavidHill]

I now need to change a rear wheel bearing.  Reading the "Servicing an Aprilia" it seems that you first have to remove the trailing arm, which means removing the torsion bar, which means taking tension in the transverse spring via a special clamping device...is that right?

[simonandjuliet]

If it is just the wheel bearing - I have done them on the car - but you need good pusher/puller tools

However , if you are looking for a nice winter job, you can drop the whole unit and check all the other bearings and silent blocks as well. The only really special tool that you need is the spring compressor available from the tool coordinator (Tim Heath)

[DavidHill]

Thanks Simon,

yes its just the wheel bearing, so will leave the fun of taking off the spring and inspecting/replacing all the other bearings/bushes to later as I am keen to drive the car for a bit after the long delays with the front axle/wheel wobble!

[Sliding Pillar]

David, there are two rear wheel bearings, part numbers inner SKF 6205 2RS and outer 6306 2RS (RS being rubber seal i.e. no need to grease). It is usually the smaller inner one that goes first.
Glad to hear you've sorted the wheel wobble!
Ade.

[DavidHill]

thanks all, i am now trying to remove the stub axle (see pick)...it is "resisting" in true Aprilia style - should i be able to simply knock it outwards with a hammer and drift...or is there another lock on it somewhere?

[simonandjuliet]

Give me 5 mins, I'll get one off the shelf and photograph it

[simonandjuliet]

They can be tight, I have used wedges to get them going - see photo with screwdivers, then use a suitable pusher/puller

Then you can take apart - don't forget the circlip which may be buried in roadmuck !

[DavidHill]

brilliant, tanks for the pictures Simon. v useful..

[Jay]

Also my 'this weekend' job having dismantled everything else from the rear of the car. Must update my thread at some point

[Running Board]

dont be suprised if the housing has worn and bearing losoe in housing, common fault, normally caused by the extra load of british drive shafts not being able to go through the angles of an italian shaft, anyway if not badly worn you can use bearing lock, like a locktight specifically for loose bearing and hub fitments, ifor williams trailers use it as standard

[Hendrik]

It was just awful on one side of my car. We had even to weld some supports onto the outer screw nut.

[davidwheeler]

The opposite problem!   I have a hydraulic extractor which makes such things a bit easier.

[DavidHill]

thanks all for the advice...so far I have managed to move the hub by about 3mm (via hammering wedges in), it now seems to be immovable. I have tried a bearing puller, but that simply bent under the pressure...i have also tried a Hydraulic puller, but cannot get the feet of its two legs to fit into the 3mm gap between the hub and the wheel plate (that contains the wheel nut studs).  I suspect I will have to bite the bullet and take the whole back axle off etc to get better access...

[DavidHill]

now trying to remove the rear axle...have disconnected both drive shafts, the prop shaft, brake lines and handbrake cable...now trying to undo the three bolts that hold the axle assembly and the diff onto the car. Of course Lancia do not make it easy!!!  any tips or hints on how to hold the very thin 22mm nut on the left of this picture whilst i then undo the big bolt that goes all the way through these bushes i cannot get a ring spanner onto it as the clearance is too narrow?? (see pic)

[simonandjuliet]

I will remind myself in the morning, but the LH nut - the thin one is is inserted inside the LH silent blocks so you do need to lock it whilst you undo the RH side - ie the bolt that goes through the support

You undo it from the right , not the left because that is held in the silent block-  and the bolt moves to the right in your photo. The middle nuts do need to be loose so you can undo the bolt