Lancia Motor Club Forum Banner
05 August, 2020, 11:32:08 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Need to contact the Forum Administrator? e-mail forum.admin@lanciamc.co.uk, for Database Administrator e-mail database.admin@lanciamc.co.uk      -      Copy deadline for Viva Lancia is 12th of each month.      -      For Events e-mail events@lanciamc.co.uk      -      To Join the club go to http://www.lanciamc.co.uk/join.htm
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: s3 coupe window  (Read 2623 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
ian
Guest
« on: 27 May, 2008, 10:10:52 PM »

I have a problem with the main window on drivers side. To be honest its been like it for a few years, now I must get it sorted.
Fault is that the window tilts a little towards the back, enough to clash with the body when closing, unless I have lifted the window up slightly by hand. What would I be likely to find when I remove the door card,a faulty window winder? Is it a common fault and would it be just as well to get a replacement window winder mechanism?
Is there a preferable way to remove the door card, or do they have those horrible plastic knobbly fastenings?
Thanks in advance
Logged
inthedark
Guest
« Reply #1 on: 28 May, 2008, 04:47:24 PM »

Fulvia door cards should have metal clips, it may well be that the regulator is loose or the
rear guide has corroded or dropped out of its locating slot.

Geoff
Logged
Scarpia
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 723



« Reply #2 on: 28 May, 2008, 06:57:28 PM »

If you remove the door liner you will find that the window sits in a very robust horizontal profile with a sort of cantilever mechanism that  lifts it upwards whilst remaining parallel to the ground.The profile in which the window sits is "one piece" so its not a case of a rear support having moved or failed I think.The whole unit is retained by 3 screws situated in a triangle around the winder recess. I suppose its possible if the rearmost screw has worked loose (or missing) that the unit might tip slightly rearwards.Otherwise its difficult to explain.I assume the door is lined up right and not dropped? If you remove the card you'll probably see straightaway what the problem is.
The plugs in the door into which the card is press fitted are plastic.
Logged
inthedark
Guest
« Reply #3 on: 28 May, 2008, 07:09:11 PM »

Yeah, but usually the plastic holes are missing anyway.
Logged
ian
Guest
« Reply #4 on: 28 May, 2008, 10:39:03 PM »

Weekend project number 2 then! Thanks for the tips Smiley
Logged
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #5 on: 31 May, 2008, 05:52:08 PM »

Both the front and rear supports are adjustable. They are held in place by set screws in a slot that is accessible after removing the door card. The rear one can rust very badly at the bottom and are difficult to re-make as they are a compound curve. If they are not correctly positioned then the window will not sit in the correct position. Also the condition of the fabric inserts to the runners are very important to the attitude of the window - if the are worn then the window will raise and fall incorrectly. If yours is always at the wrong attitude I would say that the glass has moved in the channel that is fixed to the winding mechanism, which you should be able to check with the window in the lowered position and the door card removed. The whole mechanism may have moved in the door but there is very little adjustment there.
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
inthedark
Guest
« Reply #6 on: 31 May, 2008, 07:07:43 PM »

That what I said (in a lot less words) Hee Hee
Logged
ncundy
Lapsed
Rebel Poster
*
Posts: 980



« Reply #7 on: 31 May, 2008, 07:18:38 PM »

Oh yes  Embarrassed Grin
Logged

1969 Fanalone, Mazda RX-8, Fiat Multipla
ian
Guest
« Reply #8 on: 09 June, 2008, 08:54:07 PM »

Well, I spent the whole of Sunday afternoon trying to adjust the window, got it a bit better, but I'm still not satisfied.
Everything came apart lovely, even the door card fixings, (which were metal by the way) I could not see any adjustment on either of the side rails, they don't appear to be rusty, too much wax oil type stuff in and around the inside of the door, but the long 'furry strip' of the leading edge of the door is worn at the top, (where you can see from the out side of the door) but I can't see that causing the problem. However, the 'furry strip' at the tail end IS worn and replacing this may temporarily fix the problem, but I would have thought that the cantilever system would have raised the window in parallel and not rely on the said strips. What do you all think?
So to preempt my question....has anyone a spare unworn cantilever system and spare side furry strips? Grin 
Logged
Jai Sharma
Megaposter
*
Posts: 375


« Reply #9 on: 09 June, 2008, 09:46:50 PM »

Hi Ian,

I think it will be more likely to be the missing furry strips rather than the cantilever. I have cantilever assemblies but suggest that the furry strips would be the first thing to check. They have a steel core to the structure and this corrodes/breaks up. I might have some if you would like me to look, but probably you would be best off getting a new item that is not worn or corroded?
Logged
fay66
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 5848



« Reply #10 on: 09 June, 2008, 11:39:39 PM »

I take it we're talking front door furry weatherstrip, Omicron carry this but beware it is an absolute  Shocked Shocked Shocked to remove if it's the same as Berlina; it is held in by tiny screws that you can't see let alone find!, there's a recess that holds the weatherstrip in place in the door aperture but I gave up trying to line up the tiny little slot screws and reverted to a hot melt glue gun that appears to have held well for over 2 years now.
Funny feeling that I gave the same advice sometime ago?
in photo with door locking knob you can see one of the screw holes.
last photo shows new in place.
Looking again at my 818 parts list I'm fairly sure that it it the furry channel at the front & rear of the glass that controls the position of the glass & as Neil says, if this is worn it will allow the glass to tilt.
Berlina is a bit overkill but at least it's positive.
if you want diagrams from the parts list, let me know.

Brian
8227 Cool

Brian
8227 Cool


* DSCF0002 copy.jpg (78.46 KB, 600x800 - viewed 165 times.)

* DSCF0004 copy.jpg (76.57 KB, 800x600 - viewed 197 times.)

* DSCF0012 copy.jpg (124.01 KB, 600x800 - viewed 200 times.)
Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
ian
Guest
« Reply #11 on: 10 June, 2008, 12:04:29 AM »

Thanks for the advice,  Didn't know about the screws. Gave up when I realized that I was looking  at buying new parts anyway.Omicron it is then Wink
Logged
inthedark
Guest
« Reply #12 on: 10 June, 2008, 12:11:50 PM »

No screws on the coupe (no window surround) should just push into the slot, bit of Fairy Liquid helps.

Geoff
Logged
fay66
Permanent resident
**
Posts: 5848



« Reply #13 on: 10 June, 2008, 01:03:53 PM »

No screws on the coupe (no window surround) should just push into the slot, bit of Fairy Liquid helps.

Geoff
Hi Colonel

Wish it was as easy as that on Berlina, so far I've avoided doing the other side due to the buggeration(Sorry Embarrassed) factor.

Brian
8227 Cool
Logged

Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Contact the Forum Administrator

LMC Forum copyright © 2007 - 2018 Lancia Motor Club Ltd

Powered by SMF 1.1.20 | SMF © 2006-2011, Simple Machines
Page created in 0.032 seconds with 21 queries.