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Author Topic: Electrical Problems  (Read 2066 times)
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dhla40
Senior Member
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Posts: 152


« Reply #15 on: 21 September, 2021, 08:38:51 AM »

I had a problem with a rusty tank but was wary of using a sealant as I have heard this sometimes comes off and blocks filters. I baulked at paying £500 for a new one so after a bit of ebay trawling found a new MG midget tank for £100 that looked a likely substitute. It is 6 gallon instead of 8 and slightly smaller but fits nicely with a bit of fabrication, I do not do many long distance trips these days so the reduced capacity is not a problem.

Sean   
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1976 1.3s coupe
1973 1.3s coupe
1982 montecarlo project
1976 alfa GT
1981 alfa spider
Neil
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Posts: 1101



« Reply #16 on: 21 September, 2021, 09:00:25 AM »

I used the tank sealant about 10 years ago so far has worked perfectly, coated the filler tube, also fitted the smaller Filter King with regulator with the glass bowl then you can see any debris that might have come through from the tank.
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Neil   
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1973 Fulvia S2 1.3
fay66
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« Reply #17 on: 21 September, 2021, 01:25:01 PM »

I used the tank sealant about 10 years ago so far has worked perfectly, coated the filler tube, also fitted the smaller Filter King with regulator with the glass bowl then you can see any debris that might have come through from the tank.
I fitted the small Filter King with the glass bowl as well.
Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
harvir93
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Posts: 14


« Reply #18 on: 21 September, 2021, 10:34:16 PM »

Thanks all... I have ordered a glass bowl filter king together with a Por-15 tank restoration kit and some general degreaser.
I have watched a few youtube videos of the sealer being applied... its a lengthy process but seems to do the job if done with some care during the prep stages.
My plan is to replace the rubber fuel lines with new ones and blow out the solid fuel line with the air compressor as best i can. I can try to adapt my plumbing pressure testing pump to pump degreaser down the lines as well to help with the cleaning.
I had a look in the tops of both carbs, where the floats are, today and there appears to be no debris from the tank in them but I will need to get them off and inspect them fully to be sure. The existing Mahele filter seems to be doing a good job so far.
I have siphoned out the petrol which was full of rusty bits and unbolted the tank out of the boot floor, just need to remove the hoses and it should come out no problem (fingers crossed)
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harvir93
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Posts: 14


« Reply #19 on: 24 September, 2021, 10:21:40 PM »

I have now cleaned and sealed the tank using the POR-15 fuel tank kit. A pretty lengthy process but I think it has done the job. I can put fuel back in the tank from Monday (if nowhere near me has run out!).
I also blasted out the flow and return fuel lines with the air compressor. There was a fair amount of rust in them too (the colour of the petrol was like mahogony varnish). I have received the filter king and i have been looking into installation and I am little confused. As it is a fuel regulator I think it should be installed after the fuel pump but as a fuel filter i would prefer it before the pump to help protect it. So should I keep my inline filter for the fuel into the pump and fit the filter king between the pump and the carbs? or does it go before the pump in place of the inline filter and I am overthinking things
Location wise, I think I will install on to the arch just above where the fuel lines enter the engine bay. Should I use self tapping screws or drill holes in the overhanging section and bolt it through with the supplied bolts and nuts?
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nistri
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Posts: 408


« Reply #20 on: 25 September, 2021, 06:45:32 AM »

The filter king is a fuel pressure regulator (to be adjusted via the top screw, clockwise you will INCREASE thw flow)) and, therefore, should go after the fuel pump which not rarely pushes out too high pressure. There is a flange in the engine bay where two holes can be drilled and the regulator fitted with nuts and bolts, I think the manual has a picture for the fitting, Andrea
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Andrea Nistri

Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
harvir93
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Posts: 14


« Reply #21 on: 25 September, 2021, 03:58:18 PM »

Thanks Andrea. you have confirmed what I thought. I was a little worried about the width of the flange if there would be enough metal and space to bolt through. Measure twice and drill once!! I will leave the mahle fuel filter in on the inlet side as seems to be doing a cracking job for the time being. 
Is there a specific pressure to set the regulator too or should I leave it as factory.
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nistri
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Posts: 408


« Reply #22 on: 26 September, 2021, 07:04:07 AM »

If you have a suitable fuel manometer to be temporarily fitted before the carbs, go for 0.3-0.4 bar at idle. Otherwise at idle revs gently turn the screw to achieve optimum running. Andrea
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Andrea Nistri

Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
davidwheeler
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« Reply #23 on: 26 September, 2021, 09:48:10 PM »

I have a filter before the electric pump on my Fulvia and my Aprilia as well as Filter Kings.   They protect the pumps and every now and then have to be replaced to clear them.     I sometimes think you cannot have too many fuel filters.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
harvir93
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Posts: 14


« Reply #24 on: 26 September, 2021, 10:20:55 PM »

Thanks both.
I fitted the filter king and replaced the fuel lines today. The mahle kl145 filter that was in place before the pump has lots of small pieces of rust in it so Iíll get a replacement for it. I think itís best to give the mechanical pump some protection.
Unfortunately, the two petrol stations closest to me are out of fuel and Iím pretty sure when they will have some there will be long queues again!
Iíve seen others on the forum talk about electrical pumps but I guess these are used to prime the system to the mechanical pump rather than in place of it?
I also noticed the connection for the oil breather pipe has perished badly where it connects into the air box. Would anyone know if that small connector can be replaced. I would prefer to replace it rather than running a separate oil breather filter.
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lancialulu
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« Reply #25 on: 27 September, 2021, 06:24:34 AM »

I also noticed the connection for the oil breather pipe has perished badly where it connects into the air box. Would anyone know if that small connector can be replaced. I would prefer to replace it rather than running a separate oil breather filter.
Readily available. Try Omicron.
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1988 Delta 1.6GTi
1998 Zeta
harvir93
Member
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Posts: 14


« Reply #26 on: 28 September, 2021, 04:07:44 PM »

I ended up putting 5L of fuel in and having a drive up and down the road a few times. Itís certainly driving a lot better and didnít conk out as before. I think it definitely needs to be tuned to run better, especially since the introduction of the fuel regulator. Iíve met a guy who is an engine rebuilder (Iím doing the inspections for his new garage/workshop) so heís agreed to give me hand with it. He definitely will come in handy when it comes to carrying to an engine rebuild!
Next is to get some fuel in it once the whole Ďcrisisí blows over by the end of the week and take it for a longer run.
It has an aftermarket gear knob on it which came off in my hand when driving! Iíve bought an original one which was on eBay. Unsurprisingly the stick/thread has been hacked away so my plan is to tap the hole in the shaft and use a m8 to m10 stud adapter to get it on there.
Thanks all for your help! Itís been great connecting with you all on here!
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davidwheeler
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« Reply #27 on: 28 September, 2021, 09:41:22 PM »

I have fitted electrical pumps ot Aprilia and Fulvia and scrapped the mechanical ones.   Pressure control via a Filter King is essential - though the 6V Aprilia one is a special low pressure type to start with.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
lancialulu
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« Reply #28 on: 29 September, 2021, 05:51:08 AM »

It has an aftermarket gear knob on it which came off in my hand when driving! Iíve bought an original one which was on eBay. Unsurprisingly the stick/thread has been hacked away so my plan is to tap the hole in the shaft and use a m8 to m10 stud adapter to get it on there.
Thanks all for your help! Itís been great connecting with you all on here!
I would look for a replacement chrome stick shift. Relatively easy to change. The bottom boot may need changing anyway and probably more expensive than a second hand shift. I think I may have a spare shift stick if interested.
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1988 Delta 1.6GTi
1998 Zeta
harvir93
Member
**
Posts: 14


« Reply #29 on: 06 October, 2021, 09:21:06 PM »

Thanks for the offer Tim. In the end my stud idea worked out well. I had to get a stud made by a chap on the Slough Trading Estate for a couple of quid.
No that I have replaced the gearknob I noticed the gearstick rotates, is there a way of tightening this too. I have also tried adjusting the handbrake as it not holding the car. I did this by tightening the nut under the car where the cable splits but this has not really worked. From the brake diagram it looks like shoes can be adjusted by an adjuster in the hub? I am guessing this is like drum brake adjuster and I have to wind this out until the shoes drag on the hub and then wind in by around 10 clicks?
Next few jobs are to replace the tired non tensioned seatbelts, remove an LPG conversion which had been fitted to the car in 2018 and to give a good polish.
Any recommendations for seat belts, I had been looking at set from secureon.
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