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Author Topic: Sticking clutch  (Read 1490 times)
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andyps
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Posts: 272


« Reply #15 on: 13 October, 2021, 04:25:38 PM »

My clutch replacement was successful and the spigot bearing and seal were the correct sizes so details are:
Bearing - 6200 2RS C3 ball bearing - the C3 is important because it denotes larger internal clearance for higher temperature applications
Seal - 80mm x 100mm x 10mm R23

Interestingly, as well as the spigot bearing being sealed the garage reported that the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel when they took it off. I was badly stuck when I finally got the engine running but never really sorted itself despite driving it 800 miles before it went to the garage. The car is massively better to drive now!
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Jaydub
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« Reply #16 on: 13 October, 2021, 05:26:32 PM »

Andy I cannot believe the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel. If that was true, the gearbox input shaft would be constantly spinning and you would not get it into gear because the shaft would not slow enough to allow the synchro rings/gears to align and mesh.Huh?Huh?
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1600 HF. S2.
andyps
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Posts: 272


« Reply #17 on: 13 October, 2021, 08:13:36 PM »

Andy I cannot believe the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel. If that was true, the gearbox input shaft would be constantly spinning and you would not get it into gear because the shaft would not slow enough to allow the synchro rings/gears to align and mesh.Huh?Huh?

It was easy to free off. What was strange was that if I'd left the car for some time it worked fine when I put it into gear initially, but if I only left it for a short while it would stick - almost like the heat stuck it. All resolved now.
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