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Author Topic: Y10 FIRE LX  (Read 42245 times)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #285 on: 14 December, 2020, 01:16:09 PM »

Heater fan switches are notorious. Usually they loose the fastest speed. The resister for the speeds has no moving parts, it's the same as the lighting resistor on OSF suspension turret,   and is external to the heater. I would clean the contacts in the switch and keep my fingers crossed.
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #286 on: 19 December, 2020, 10:54:55 PM »

Issue with the fan only working on fast speed setting may be of interest to some guys incase yours fails and the switch tests OK, as mine did.
Tested the continuity from switch wires to the resisitor by the fan motor and all wiring OK, so tested the resisitor itself and was open circuit.
How the fan differing speeds work are governed by the resisitor. On full speed the resistor is bypassed, hence mine working on full speed. For low and medium speed it puts the earth through the coils which reduces the effectiveness of the earth thereby reducing the power going to the motor, medium speed just uses the halfway contact point, slow speed uses the full length of the resisitor.
The fault was obvious to see, a weak link between contacts had fractured. Not really sure if it was supposed to be a weak link, the power supply will be fused but guess it gives some overheat protection if the motor starts to drag and overload the resisitor.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #287 on: 19 December, 2020, 10:58:42 PM »

To repair it I just soldered some copper wire across the base of the contacts. A bit more hefty than the original point where it broke but it will be OK.
All works fine now.
Apart from the motor making a racket. On taking it out the plastic impeller pack had dropped down a few mm and was dragging on the casing, maybe that had caused the resistor to overheat, who knows.
Pushed back home and it runs lovely and silently.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #288 on: 19 December, 2020, 11:04:49 PM »

The doors were next on line to be reattached, once the rest of the dash was put into place.
All built back up with the glass etc but not the latches yet as I'll do the final alignment once I get the car down onto it's wheels.
I took the precaution on the window regulators of drilling a hole in the glass mount where the plastic clip seems to be a weak point, a large washer with split pin should stop it dropping out.


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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #289 on: 20 December, 2020, 01:22:47 PM »

Well that's a new one on the heater motor. I actually went out and checked on mine to see if I have been mistaken all these years. Nope, mine is still, as I have often found before, OK on low and medium speed with nothing on fast speed and intact circuits across all of the resistor. You're lucky it was something different because it was readily fixable.

Another thing to check is that your rear side windows are fully sealing on their rear edge against their rubbers at the top. Damp getting in the boot has been a mystery to me for years with suggested causes ranging from the pipe for the rear window washer leaking (plausible) to condensation forming due to the heating and cooling of the floor by the exhaust (implausible). I realised recently that rain water running off the gutter less roof was pooling on the top of the window rubber and running down inside behind the rear seat belt. The latch has an "over centre" action and mine goes "over" fractionally too far allowing the pressure holding the window closed to release slightly. Compacted rubbers strikes me as one possible cause though I may have used catches from a Touring and be finding another of those fractional mismatches between what superficially appear to be exchangeable components.
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #290 on: 20 December, 2020, 01:23:28 PM »

Hi Kevin
My heater fan is like yours was nice to know it is an easy fix with the soldering iron. I swapped out the motor on mine from a spare that came with the car and for good measure popped a smidgeon of grease on the top bearing.
Clarkey
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #291 on: 20 December, 2020, 03:47:44 PM »

Yes, the fan motor sitting upside down with the top bearing open allows for a drip of machine oil to be applied once a year should keep it moving freely for years. All good to keep things flowing.
Sounds like on yours Frank with it not working on fast speed the resistor could indeed be completely ruled out as at fault. Switch contacts likely culprit as you say. It's a slightly different way to do things that often used on other cars, the motor gets 12v supply when ignition on and the switch operates the earth. Fan speed 1 puts the earth connection through to the brown wire which feeds through the resistor to the opposite end , back down through the double wired connection and onto the fan motor completing the circuit. Fan speed 2 sends earth through the green/brown wire along the short route of the resistor and down the double connector and onto the motor. Fan speed setting 3 just sends the earth from the switch up to the resistor but as it's the double connector wire it just goes directly to the fan motor so runs at the full 12v without resistance. If you have continuity in the wire connection from the switch to the double connection at the resistor then that rules out a broken wire so hence the switch at fault. As I'm sure you have deduced Frank, not wanting to teach you how to suck eggs just wanted to try and explain the checking process so others can self check things methodically as there's no better feeling than being able to repair your own stuff  Cool

Good shout too on the rear window rubbers to make sure of a good seal. Before all the interior trim goes in I'll check them. I did clean and check the seals for damage before fitting. I'll check to see if they are applying decent tension. If not then a good solution would be to make a spacer gasket out of plastic or maybe some neoprene sheet as I have some for making spacers or gaskets where needed, a rubber spacer a couple of mm thick under the rear latch would pull the glass tighter by the same amount. Similar set up on AlfaSuds I've had before, they sometimes didn't go over centre quite as firmly as these do which OK it kept tension on the seal but also I've known them to pop open, not good for security or sealing !

That's it for the jobs for a little while, until after Christmas anyway. I have some time off work between Christmas and New Year though so should have the car completed in that week. Not really that much to do now as you can see. Front wings & bonnet to fit. Bumper o0nce I've cleaned and treated it, good tip Frank  Wink I did take the rear lights out and do the rea one which looks much better. Some of the thick floor padding needs renewing but I already have some new self adhesive sheets waiting to be cut to suit and fit. Wiring is all done so once I know everything works then the carpet and seats can go in, probably makes sense to fit the roof lining back in before the seats thinking about it..
Once on the wheels I'll take it over my pit and tighten all the bushes so they are tight with the car level to prevent twist up damage. A good clean then as it's getting pretty dusty!

I do though have to sort something with the aerial if you guys have ideas. The car has never had a radio fitted and although the hole is there in the roof and an aerial cable is fitted there is just the base that clamps to the roof skin, no aerial mast itself. Can the mast be found separately? I did buy a roof mounted one without thinking about the mounting hole size which is quite big at about 18mm. Does anyone have a spare mast that screws into the roof base maybe? Or know where I can find? I'll have a search in the usual places a bit more, what I've found so far hasn't worked.
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #292 on: 20 December, 2020, 08:14:55 PM »

I'll probably do a double check on my heater wiring as you suggest to make sure haven't missed the obvious but I have a feeling I've cleaned inside a switch in the past and got things working.

On aerials I am thinking that the radio equipment was a dealer fitment and that aerials therefore fairly random. Mine has what has an unusual one with no articulation which means it has to be removed every time I put the cover on the car. I have never seen another one fitted to a Y10. I'll have a dig in my spares to see if I have saved an aerial or parts but I'd never registered them as being an unusual size fitting.

Auto Italia were after doing a feature on a Y10 at the beginning of the year and contacted me but mine was off the road. While it cosmetically reasonably presentable now the drive train is thoroughly worn out so I certainly didn't want it to be the standard by which Y10s were judged. Yours on the other hand would be an excellent proposition so if you were willing I could pass on your contact details when you are up and running.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #293 on: 20 December, 2020, 09:28:17 PM »

Mine has just got the cable and a blanking plug in the fitting.
I've seen a few likely candidates on ebay, like you point out with yours though I'd like to have one that folds down rather than rigid.
Dawned on me that the gtie is sat outside so had a look at that.
Tim had contacted me about the proposed Auto Italia feature so think there's a few of us in the frame.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #294 on: 20 December, 2020, 09:41:19 PM »

I found this one with a 14mm fitting which would be much more suitable for the Y10 rather than the usual mounting holes which are 6 to 8mm.
Fixed angle though.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402466306995
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #295 on: 20 December, 2020, 09:44:56 PM »

Apart from noticed the connection looked odd, seems to be a DAB one not FM  Angry
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #296 on: 20 December, 2020, 11:29:29 PM »

Found one that looks like it will do the job so taken the flunge, fingers crossed it will do the job and fit OK.
Fixed rake which isn't my first choice, as Frank says means yu have to remove the mast rather than fold flat when putting a cover on.
But for the cars' first radio install it will allow more choice as it comes with both DIN and DAB leads so opens up a multitude of opportunities!
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #297 on: 21 December, 2020, 12:41:55 PM »

I feel the need to apologise for the broken English in my last comment. It's far below the standard to which I aspire!

I would encourage you to resist the aerial you found on e-bay as looking far too obviously modern.

These might look more natural and it shouldn't be difficult to make a spacer to reduce the size of the hole in the roof if needs be.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Celsus-AN7910-Car-Roof-Mount-Aerial-Chrome-ideal-classic-car/171236576879?epid=9016998540&hash=item27de7ece6f%3Ag%3A7IMAAOSwNyFWeToj&LH_ItemCondition=1000

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-VW-BEETLE-TOP-MOUNT-CAR-RADIO-AERIAL-CHROME-SHIRA-PART-No-SYS667-NOS/283765447830?hash=item4211bd1c96%3Ag%3AyTAAAOSw6j9bg-n5&LH_ItemCondition=1000

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Classic-Car-Oldtimer-Chrome-Roof-Aerial-Antenna/363044043276?hash=item54871c7a0c%3Ag%3AL6AAAOSwl-VfBrGF&LH_ItemCondition=1000

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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #298 on: 21 December, 2020, 08:30:33 PM »

This is the one I have purchased, not ideal I agree but having already purchased  a nice period looking one and finding it was too small to have any degree of suitable overlap for the comparatively oversized hole in the roof, 18mm hole with aerials designed for a 10mm hole produces too much slop and potential for it moving, or leaking plus the underside earth contact is too small so would need a washer of some sort. Seemed too fiddly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roof-Mount-Active-DAB-with-FM-Car-Radio-Aerial-Antenna-Mast-Amplifier-Built-UK/293152901471?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I quite like the 1st and last of those Frank, but the 1st has no size data and the last shows what most seem to be, having a 10mm mounting hole which given my 18mm hole it's a bit too small.

I'll see what the one I've bought looked like on the car before deciding, I would much rather have an older looking one especially a tilt able one.
May look at the original one I purchased,,
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #299 on: 22 December, 2020, 11:10:00 AM »

You have to work with what you've got. I've had a dig and found I do have two removed aerials but neither of which look like they fitted naturally in the 18mm hole. I've also taken some detailed pictures of the mounting on my Y10 which rather shows what an unusual fitment it is.


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* aerials 5.jpg (93.1 KB, 640x480 - viewed 135 times.)

* aerials 2.jpg (37.56 KB, 640x480 - viewed 134 times.)

* aerials 4.jpg (42.54 KB, 640x480 - viewed 137 times.)

* aerials 3.jpg (51.31 KB, 640x480 - viewed 141 times.)
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