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Author Topic: Y10 FIRE LX  (Read 10268 times)
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Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #210 on: 24 September, 2020, 06:29:37 PM »

Worst bit around the vents now repaired, thankfully it hadn't spread down too far..


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Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #211 on: 24 September, 2020, 06:31:08 PM »

All welded in and smoothed out.



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Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #212 on: 24 September, 2020, 06:32:25 PM »

Corner finished off too so that's all the windscreen surround finished off.



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tzf60
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Posts: 104



« Reply #213 on: 25 September, 2020, 01:00:32 PM »

Amazing work as ever, Kevin.
You make it look so easy....... Smiley
 
Tim
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1939 Series 1 Aprilia undergoing very slow restoration.....
 
Previous Lancias: 1979 Beta Sedan 2000, 1982 Delta 1500, 1988 Delta 1.3, 1992 Dedra 1.8ie
nyssa7
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« Reply #214 on: 26 September, 2020, 08:29:24 AM »

I was thinking of sneaking my car into Kevinís garage and hoping he didnít notice 😂
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2000 kappa coupe 20vt
1996 kappa saloon 20vt race car
the "Yntegrale"
1999 Lotus Elise S1
2016 Mercedes CLA45 Shooting Break

Y10 Advisor
Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #215 on: 26 September, 2020, 01:19:51 PM »

Cheers guys, very much appreciated  Cool

With all the stuff in the unit I probably wouldn't notice another car  Grin
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fay66
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« Reply #216 on: 26 September, 2020, 10:27:17 PM »

It's not sneaking it in that's the problem, it's to get Kevin to do the work without realising it isn't one of his Grin
Brian
8227  Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
Kevinlincs
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« Reply #217 on: 26 September, 2020, 10:41:33 PM »

It's not sneaking it in that's the problem, it's to get Kevin to do the work without realising it isn't one of his Grin
Brian
8227  Cool
Yes, even I might notice that one  Grin
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Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #218 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:09:08 PM »

Here's an example through the next few posts of how a little "surface rust" is actually and usually the surface of a much bigger problem...
The drivers door had a scab along the bottom of the outer skin and some rust on the underside of the bottom plate..


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #219 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:12:31 PM »

The holes in the bottom plate obviously mean that needs replacing but on looking inside the door the "surface rust" was on both surfaces!  Grin
So nothing for it but to chop out the outer skin to reveal the horrors inside..


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #220 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:14:30 PM »

The further along I looked I couldn't see an end to the rust, nothing as bad but still rusted so couldn't be left, so nothing more to do that cut it all off..


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Kevinlincs
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Posts: 805


« Reply #221 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:17:22 PM »

Most of the bottom plate needed replacing apart from at both ends where strengthener plate sits, also there was rust up onto the edge up towards the door card aperture on one half so that needed replacing too.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #222 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:19:59 PM »

Then finally an outer skin could be fabricated for the bottom 2" or so. Door fitted back to the car along with the wing so I could make sure it went on square and to match the new sill. Use of the clico fasteners means it will go back in the same place for welding once back off the car.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #223 on: 28 September, 2020, 09:25:35 PM »

Bottom of the door skin repair panel got a folded flange as per the original skin which is bonded into place, a layer of seam sealer will tidy it up when the primer has dried.

All this effort for a bit of rust on the outside and a few holes underneath. Would have been quicker and simpler to have put some fibreglass filler in rather than spend a day and a half welding it but this way once all painted and treated it should last for years to come.


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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #224 on: 29 September, 2020, 10:53:33 AM »

I presume you will reinstate the three drain holes before painting.


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