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Author Topic: Y10 FIRE LX  (Read 8141 times)
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m tulloch
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« Reply #15 on: 09 March, 2020, 10:41:27 PM »

No problem.
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #16 on: 21 March, 2020, 08:14:48 PM »

About time I set about getting the Y10 ready.
Loads of jobs to do but got to start somewhere.
As the cambelt hasn't been changed for at least 10 years that's the first job.
Nice to have decent access and a simple task for a change. As the water pump runs off the cambelt also it got changed too even though it appears OK, not worth the risk.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #17 on: 21 March, 2020, 08:19:13 PM »

An oil and filter change for good measure so at least I've no fears now for its running.

The alternator though is overcharging so I'll take it off tomorrow and get it apart for a new voltage regulator to go in.

A couple of places around the front windscreen had let a little bit of water in, at the top where the seal is wrong but also at the bottom where the scuttle is there's now a hole once I'd poked at it. Some silicon sealant will keep the water out for now until it gets chance for a permanent repair.
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #18 on: 21 March, 2020, 08:36:08 PM »

Inside the air filter housing there's a device for altering the air metering flap from hot to cold air being drawn in..


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #19 on: 21 March, 2020, 08:39:18 PM »

On mine though its not connected, I assume the end has broken off the control rod.
I can drill out the rivets and make some kind of link between the missing section.
Question is does it normally start off drawing warm air or cold, so which way to make it work, pull or push..


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #20 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:15:41 PM »

Had a look at my malfunctioning central locking today. It was extremely temperamental and even resorted to making some wierd whirring noise at times!
The strange buzz was actually coming from the relay. Taking it apart I half expected it to be full of water and corrosion but all looked OK.
The inner door handle had one issue, the lock had been pulled up too high and a tang was preventing it going smoothly back down. With that back in correct position things improved but still not fully working. The passenger door refused to play ball at all.
When Frank came over the other week he brought me another drivers lock motor. Fitting that was an instant success.
Car locks and unlocks perfectly, no buzzing or whirring, now even the passenger door works properly!
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #21 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:23:59 PM »

Next job was the drivers electric window regulator which had lost the tangs on the plastic peg that holds it to the window glass.
Frank had again provided me with a good used item.
I'd noticed though when he came that the passenger one he had with him had broken similarly and since had a hole drilled in the remaining peg.
As my regulator still worked perfectly well I decided to make similar repairs. A hole drilled through, a large rubber and copper washer with a nice tight fitting split pin and all back in order.
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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #22 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:31:25 PM »

Putting everything back together revealed a new problem, the door locking mechanism on the door handle was falling out of the door lock lever slot.
Taking the handle out revealed that the circular portion that retains the guide pin had broken almost half way round


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #23 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:33:13 PM »

This allows the rotating section to fall off..


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #24 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:36:45 PM »

My temporary solution is to use half of an electrical connector to lock the pin in place.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #25 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:41:30 PM »

Fiddly to get on inside the door but all OK in the end.
Decided it was too risky a repair to have it fail so would have a look for a good used one, but I am amazed to have found a brand new one for a little over 20 Inc delivery!
This little car is winning me over more and more.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #26 on: 22 March, 2020, 06:48:02 PM »

Last job for today was to take the alternator off ready for a new voltage regulator.
Car had a new battery fitted when I got it probably due to the old one boiling up from being over charged, they don't like 16V going through them!
The issue it has caused though has most likely resulted in the paint being peeled off and the rust starting around the mount.
Hasn't put me off any, just another little step on the resuscitation of a little gem


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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #27 on: 23 March, 2020, 11:25:51 PM »

One of the joys of a Y10 is that most parts are pocket money prices (Flaminia parts prices have been an education to me!)

Here's a picture of the cold air flap from the air filter housing.

If you make a list of bits you need I can make up  a red cross parcel. I have a shelf of air boxes and a box of door handles so your current needs can be accommodated.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #28 on: 25 March, 2020, 08:26:42 PM »

As ever, appreciate the offer Frank.
I'll be sure to be making a shopping list as I go, with the current situation I think I'll be doing more work at home on the Y10 so hope to progress a little bit quicker than anticipated.

Took the airbox flap control out tonight to see if I could come up with a repair.
The unit works just like a wax thermostat, a heat gun warmed it up nicely to check the movement was OK so just needed to figure out a way to make the pin to locate into the linkage.
A thick split pin seemed a good solution, relatively easy to shape but still stiff enough to do the job.


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Kevinlincs
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« Reply #29 on: 25 March, 2020, 08:35:05 PM »

Being cranked over to follow the shape will provide some stability, 3 cable ties held it firmly to the shaft.
Works a treat. Cold and it pulls the flap to cover the cold air intake pipe.


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