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Author Topic: Augusta progress  (Read 3153 times)
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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 143


« Reply #60 on: 18 May, 2020, 06:28:51 PM »

The extra port is an attractive idea or would be if I had a spare head (for the car of course Smiley) but as there are many who run Augustas without major problems and the cooling  must have been alright in Italy when new Iím looking for a less radical solution.

I have a feeling that the long term owner and restorer of the car in Italy probably used it more for shows than energetic motoring as when I first ran it I had a lot of trouble with fuel starvation on long hills or at speeds over 50mph. This turned out to be due to a design incompatibility between the fuel filter which is Augusta, and the tap which is Ardea, a problem which took a long time to diagnose but once done, noticeably improved the performance as well as the starvation. I suspect it had been running too weak for years.

Augustas like mine with the Weber carburettor have the same economy weak mixture control as Geoffrey mentioned on the Aurelia. It is a quirky  feature which Iíve avoided using until, in future I fit an Air Fuel Ratio gauge so I know what is going on.

I found a very neat Bosch auxiliary water pump which looks ideal and is small enough to fit neatly under the dynamo, taking no more room on the left side of the engine than the Autoclean oil filter does on the right.

I've cleaned and dismantled the starter motor, a superbly made Bosch unit. Despite being fed 12v rather than the desiged 6V it seems in good shape, although the armature shaft has a bit of end float which can be resolved with a thin spacer washer. I'll also need to get the very slim spring which should be there to keep the pinion from tinkling against the starter ring as the original was missing.


Mike
« Last Edit: 18 May, 2020, 08:20:05 PM by Mikenoangelo » Logged
Kari
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Posts: 60


« Reply #61 on: 19 May, 2020, 08:18:04 AM »

Hello all,
I am sorry, I cannot share the opinion that the Augusta engine has a tendency to drop valves. There is no history on that. It is true that there are heat problems on some Augusta cylinder heads and the cause has been found almost certainly beeing faulty castings. The lack of essential water channels causes overheating around No. 4 cylinder and the exhaust port. In general, the Augusta engine is capable of many ten thousends of km running if everything is within factory specs. It can climb the Stelvio pass 2760 m / 9000 ft without fuss or do 900 km / 560 miles on motorways in 12 hours incl. stops for petrol and food. Lancia quality.
Pardon my English.

Regards Karl
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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 143


« Reply #62 on: 19 May, 2020, 10:23:59 AM »

Karl - I'm happy to be guided by your experience on this - you car has been in the family for longer than many of us have been alive (not me though!). The only caveat would be if modern fuels do not suit the engine (I'm not worried about the ethanol content though as that was around throughout the 1930's to 1960 in the UK in Cleveland Discol at 15%) and if the car is driven too hard on motorways, remembering that it was probably rare in the past for a car to be able to go at full speed for more than a few miles - certainly in the UK. I'm just going to do what I can to cool that corner of the head.

Your English is perfect - a whole lot better than my Swiss Wink. We lived in Bex les Bains in the Canton of Vaud for 9 months in 1963 and have very happy memories of that.

Cheerio
Mike
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lancialulu
Press Officer
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Posts: 3830



« Reply #63 on: 19 May, 2020, 11:08:36 AM »

Karl - I'm happy to be guided by your experience on this - you car has been in the family for longer than many of us have been alive (not me though!). The only caveat would be if modern fuels do not suit the engine (I'm not worried about the ethanol content though as that was around throughout the 1930's to 1960 in the UK in Cleveland Discol at 15%) and if the car is driven too hard on motorways, remembering that it was probably rare in the past for a car to be able to go at full speed for more than a few miles - certainly in the UK. I'm just going to do what I can to cool that corner of the head.
Ethanol petrol does not burn hotter according to the new book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Engines-Modern-Fuel-Solutions/dp/1787115909

worth a read through....
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Its not the winning but taking part! or is it taking apart?
1955 Aurelia B12
1967 Flavia Vignale iniezione
1967 Fulvia 1.3HFR
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 Fulvia 1600HF
1972 1600 Fulvia Sport
1979 2500 Gamma Coupe
1988 Delta 1.6GTi
1998 Zeta
Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
*****
Posts: 143


« Reply #64 on: 19 May, 2020, 08:54:09 PM »

I dressed up the JB Weld repair on the pump impeller - more functional than pretty.(53)

Here is the starter drive pinion (54). There seems to be nothing to stop the pinion from floating forward to tinkle against the flywheel which it sometimes does. I thought a light spring was missing but now I donít see how that would work as it would be squashed against the main spring when engaged. Can anyone advise?

The dynamo (55) is an original 6v Bosch marked RG 90/6 but running on 12volts with a replacement regulator (56) marked 12/130. I assume this permits the dynamo to operate on 12v which it seems to do happily. Can any electrical expert out there confirm that this is the case?

Mike


* 53 . Patched with JB weldEldjpg.jpg (141.21 KB, 640x480 - viewed 95 times.)

* 54. Bosch starter spring.jpg (110.7 KB, 640x480 - viewed 94 times.)

* 55. Bosch 6v dynamo with replacement regulator.jpg (117.57 KB, 640x480 - viewed 95 times.)

* 56. Inside of regulator.jpg (101.05 KB, 640x480 - viewed 96 times.)
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Kari
Member
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Posts: 60


« Reply #65 on: 20 May, 2020, 08:34:17 AM »

Mike,
I see you have one of the rare steel dogs.

On your starter motor the return spring is missing. I hope you have a spring maker on hand nearby. At rest, the dog is pulled back to the flange. On starting, the inertia enables the dog winding towards the ring gear and stops at the the heavy spring.

The dynamo does what the regulator tells it whatever voltage. However the voltage and current should be checked when back in use. Nominal output is 90 Watts. I think it will stand 130 Watts.

Regards  Karl


* IMG_2827.JPG (265.16 KB, 1175x848 - viewed 3 times.)

* IMG_2826.JPG (564.98 KB, 1632x1224 - viewed 10 times.)
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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 143


« Reply #66 on: 20 May, 2020, 10:26:30 AM »

Karl - my pinion may be the wrong one as I can find no hole to insert the wire tag of the spring. I suspect it will be too hard to drill but I can try - if you can tell me where! I assume it was drilled from the outside of the cylindrical part of the pinion.

There is a hole in the shaft which was invisible at first but visible now that I have fitted a spacer to reduce the end float of the shaft.

Mike


* 59. starter pinion.jpg (134.65 KB, 640x427 - viewed 83 times.)
« Last Edit: 20 May, 2020, 10:52:36 AM by Mikenoangelo » Logged
JohnMillham
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Posts: 953



« Reply #67 on: 20 May, 2020, 01:00:44 PM »

I have a spare one left from a batch I had made a few years ago, so will send it to you. Is your address as in the latest (2013) VSCC list of members, ending in 5SY? Regards, John 


* pinion.jpg (1440.86 KB, 2814x2049 - viewed 4 times.)
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JohnMillham
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Posts: 953



« Reply #68 on: 20 May, 2020, 01:02:53 PM »

I won't send the pinion,  just the spring. It won't go 'till Friday, 'cos I'm not allowed out. My "shopper" help will post it.
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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 143


« Reply #69 on: 20 May, 2020, 02:05:29 PM »

Brilliant John - thanks. We moved so I'll email our new address. We also have the same post problem - yesterday a friendly council chap who was sweeping the carpark played posty for me.

I can see the missing hole on your picture so will now experiment to see whether carbide drills, rotary burrs or diamond tipped tools will do the job. The pinion is hard!

Mike
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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
*****
Posts: 143


« Reply #70 on: 24 May, 2020, 08:29:11 PM »

Success! I found I could drill the starter pinion for the antitinkle spring using a carbide drill bit. (60)Tricky but 3000rpm in the milling machine with light pressure on the drill and cutting oil did the trick. I bought two 1.5mm bits, one of which became blunt immediately but the other, of a different brand, went through the 6mm thick rim of the pinion with no problem.

The starter and dynamo are ready to fit, these and a lot of other engine parts having been cleaned, phosphated, primed and top coated with POR15 Engine Enamel, a heat resistant paint which brushes on without brush marks.

Iím fairly convinced that adding an auxiliary water pump to feed to the hot corner of the head is possible without major irreversable modifications and worthwhile. I decided that if I put more water in I also need to help it out as the aluminium elbows to the radiator hoses are only 19mm bore, although the ports into the pump and out of the head are larger. I fabricated a new outlet elbow with 23mm bore and this now awaits a visit to the welder when we are unlocked (61).

Mike


* 61. Enlarged water outlet.jpg (170.28 KB, 640x480 - viewed 32 times.)

* 60. holey pinion.jpg (127.86 KB, 640x480 - viewed 32 times.)
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 08:17:05 AM by Mikenoangelo » Logged
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