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Author Topic: Lambda....the journey begins!  (Read 13763 times)
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Dikappa
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« Reply #135 on: 30 August, 2020, 05:31:11 PM »

A long searched for part has been sourced in Germany, the headlight dimming swith.  I did have the internals but missed the cover, and now a complete 'NOS' turned up on ebay...the wonders of the internet.  After receiving the unit it puzzled me how the wires had to enter the unit.  Luckily my friend Iain in Oz knew the answer: originally a backelite spacer was under the unit.  Chances to find this are way below zero so I made something up out of black HDPE that will do the job....


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Dikappa
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« Reply #136 on: 06 September, 2020, 03:49:19 PM »

Yesterday the rear axle came back, still have to fit the halfshafts and outer bearings, but the diff is completely set up.  It now also has modern lipseals all round, far enough to the inside, and in dismounable separate steel rings (sealed with an O-ring)

Today I spend most of the day inspecting and cleaning brake drums and shoes....

The big question now is: paint the complete drum matt black or leave the nice looking ALU in sight???
I know originally they were all black so I feel thats the way to go, but the ALU cooling ribs look soo nice now that they are all cleaned and blasted......

Opinions please!


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simonandjuliet
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« Reply #137 on: 06 September, 2020, 06:49:49 PM »

Sorry Koen , but you asked for an opinion , it it is not necessarily the right one (!) but I'd go for black ....
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S1 Aprilia Cabrio, S2 Aprilia, S1 Promiscuo,S2 camioncino, S2 furgoncino, , R4 Sinpar, R4 Rodeo, R60 Tractor,R60 S, Moto Guzzi Ercole, Disco 3, Mini ALL4 JCW, Moto Guzzi Cardellino 73,Fulvia Berlina GT, Fulvia Rallye S, Royal Enfield Himalayan
davidwheeler
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« Reply #138 on: 06 September, 2020, 10:27:56 PM »

All black is cooler, man...
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
SanRemo78
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« Reply #139 on: 07 September, 2020, 08:45:44 AM »

How long is an unpainted ally surface going to stay bright, shiny and uncorroded? I'd go black and use something like barbecue paint that'll stand the temperatures generated?
Guy
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #140 on: 07 September, 2020, 11:54:07 AM »

Might black dissipate heat better too?
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Dikappa
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Posts: 412


« Reply #141 on: 07 September, 2020, 04:47:58 PM »

Frank, that is exactly why they were painted matt black, to better dissipate heat.  I found a 2K brake caliper paint in the shop where I get all my 2K paint cans, I guess that should do the job.

So Back to Black they will go!


Thanks for all your thoughts!
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Tony Stephens
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« Reply #142 on: 07 September, 2020, 07:52:14 PM »

I put a Hardy Spicer rear propshaft on and didn't use the original input spider.
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Dikappa
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Posts: 412


« Reply #143 on: 08 September, 2020, 02:54:07 PM »

Hi Tony,

That was my initial plan too, but I decided for the sake of progress I will first put it together as it was originally, and maybe later adapt a spare shaft.
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Tony Stephens
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Posts: 145


« Reply #144 on: 08 September, 2020, 03:15:25 PM »

Koen: people tell me that the rear propshaft joint is a horrid thing and stresses the pinion bearings.
Personally I struggle with anything on a Lambda possibly being horrid, but my car had something off a Ford, which was. (Condition-wise, I mean: Fords aren't horrid either, we have two of them). So I hadn't much of a decision to make and that is mostly why I went the Hardy Spicer route, using the front propshaft off an Austin Gypsy (remember?) which I removed and bought in Aylesbury scrapyard years ago. It's a measure of how long I took to rebuild my Lambda that Austin Gypsies could still be found in scrapyards when I got as far as the transmission.
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JohnMillham
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« Reply #145 on: 08 September, 2020, 04:24:14 PM »

Lambda propshafts are seriously heavy, so putting a Hardy Spicer on is a sensible idea.
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Dikappa
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« Reply #146 on: 08 September, 2020, 07:53:28 PM »

I fully agree, and it wonders me how the variation in lenght is coped with when the body is moving up and down, is al that taken up by the hardy disk?

It was always my intention to change to a spider joint, although Leo Schildkamp has done the Peking to Paris rally on disks and never had a problem.  In his recent Lamura he has a modern spider joint which broke after only 1000 km's, luckily on accelerating, as it could have done horrific damage breaking at speed.  He now has made a bracket under the tunnel to retain the shaft in the tunnel might it happen again.  My rear axle now has heavy tapered bearings on the pinion which will cope much better with the forces induced by the disk I'm sure, but again, I plan to change it in the future.
« Last Edit: 08 September, 2020, 07:55:03 PM by Dikappa » Logged
Mikenoangelo
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« Reply #147 on: 08 September, 2020, 09:40:55 PM »

In case you can no long find a Gypsy propshaft, Dunning and Fairbank in Leeds are good at anything to do with propshafts. I've had several from them with complete success. They even balanced the Augusta's fabric joint shaft for me.

Mike
« Last Edit: 09 September, 2020, 09:07:48 AM by Mikenoangelo » Logged
davidwheeler
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« Reply #148 on: 08 September, 2020, 10:18:53 PM »

I have been talking to this chap michael@northwestpropshafts.com about replacing my front propshaft on the saloon.  I had already replaced the rear shaft with a modern Hardy Spicer but this time have contented myself with retaining the original front shaft (with a modified flange on the back to connect to the hardy Spicer) and replacing the steady bearing - so fr it is fine.   However, Michael is now familiar with many of the problems and could probably provide you with a complete (teo part) shaft more or less off the shelf if you give him your dimensions.    You will need new flanges on gearbox and back axle of course but it is a standard taper.
The tourer has a complete modern shaft (from Oz where the car came from) and it works very well indeed.
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
Dikappa
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« Reply #149 on: 28 September, 2020, 04:15:01 PM »

A small update.  Not much progress on my car the past two weeks, but some small jobs got attention.

Cleaning, selecting and painting steering joints and rods.
Final fitting of some electrical conduits, with some surpises as in my iniitial construction I did not account for the footboard, so some had to be slightly adapted (and repainted.....)
Fabrication of internals for the rear lights and front direction indicators.  First plan, there was to fit those with ordinary bulbs, but the available space did not allow this (originally they where equipped with one single lamp only, but now the rear lamps will be used as running light/brake light and direction indicator...
For the front direction indicator I found suitable bosch L75 lamps with white glasses, however the available internal space did not allow for a 21W bulb to be fitted.

I then set out on the construction of round PCB's with LED's, and while doing some research for this I came accross complete units readily available (from China...)  These where so cheap it seemed foolish to make something myself, as the empty boards alone would have been more costly...

Order placed, good communication and follow up from my new Chinese best friend Hannah, and swiftly delivered.  It took some experimenting with position and additional colour filtration to disguise the LED's when on, but very pleased wiuth the result I must say.  (foto's to follow, stuff is being painted now)

Very curious about opinions on this!

Another question: can anyone advise me on rim size/with?  The car (as deducted from the original press picture) had 14x50 tyres.  There is only very little 500mm tyres on offer.  I think it might be wiser to convert to 19" rims.  I do not find info on the width of the original 14x50 tyres, and find now only tyres labeled 14/15/16x50, which are too wide IMO.  Think a 19" 450 tyre would be good.  All info welcomed, as this is something I might want to do pre Brexit.....
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