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Author Topic: Lambda....the journey begins!  (Read 8123 times)
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Dikappa
Megaposter
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Posts: 370


« Reply #120 on: 26 May, 2020, 09:49:52 AM »

David,

I think that would be a great solution too, my problem is off course that when I bought the car the body came already painted, which sort of limits my options....now I only need to carefully replace the rivets, which as far as I learned from google, is done cold for these small sizes...  I'm going to order some and learn how to properly use them, all new to me!
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DavidLaver
Permanent resident
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Posts: 4113



« Reply #121 on: 26 May, 2020, 12:18:58 PM »

"For me it would more be an optical thing, to give it a more finished and racy look....."

Go for it !!!!

(My reason NOW for pushing that way is so I can enjoy watching you engineer a blind to blank the radiator).

 Grin
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David Laver, Lewisham.
Dikappa
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Posts: 370


« Reply #122 on: 31 May, 2020, 04:02:11 PM »

As before I can mount the fuel tank I must have at least the rear electrics in place, I thought I should think a bit about rear light mounting brackets and connected to that a position for the number plate.  The rear lamps (of Fiat Topolino furgone origin apparently) also have an incorperated number plate lamp so it would be nice to use that one.

As I didn't feel like attaching them directly on the body, nor wanted to have 'loose' wiring to the lamp units, I devised a bracket out of a 13 mm pipe that is attached to the underside of the car, out off sight.
In one go I also made a numberplate holder, and sort of hope this will be accepted by the Belgian MOT.  (in Belgium numberplates are incredibly big and ugly nowadays, and if there is not enought room for a big one, you can ask as an exceptionto use a motorcycle one instead)  I made the plate slightly bigger then a motor cycle plate....

Opinions on the height of the position of the lampunits welcome.  I fixed 'm now with two tiny welds, so can still alter.  First I thought of having them about 6 cm lower, but I think the higher they are the bigger the chance oncoming traffic sees the stop lights.....(it will be difficult to find an acceptable way of fitting a 3rd stop lamp on this car IMO)

Another matter that got resolved is the the rear spring brackets.  Both of these had a worn out the inner hole (normal 16mm).  Strangely enough the outer one is OK on both brackets.  As one of them is still attached to the car, and painted, I needed to find away to drill out the inner hole to an oversize, in order to later on fit a flanged bushing to bring it back to a perfectly centered 16mm.  I had a special ring turned that can be clamped in the rear compartment, with a 6mm hole, that centers the small hole saw I discovered on the internet.  As the shaft was then too short I made a holder, giving me the chance to make the outside diameter 16mm, so that( it centers in the forward hole.  All went smooth with the electric drill so a nice perfectly centered 22mm hole is now ready to receive the bushing....


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JohnMillham
Rebel Poster
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Posts: 960



« Reply #123 on: 01 June, 2020, 03:45:06 PM »

Can't find any reference to it, but are you still looking for one of these? If so, one of them is yours. Let me have your address and I'll pop it in the post. It might take a day or two, as I'm not allowed out and will have to get someone to post it for me. Which one?
Regards, John


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Dikappa
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Posts: 370


« Reply #124 on: 02 June, 2020, 05:14:31 PM »

Dear John!  That seems to be just right, and I saw the bottom part in the parts wanted section.  Which one: keep the best one for yourself as a spare I would say.

I hope you did'nt have to canibalize a good magneto for that?

I'll send a seperate mail, thanks John!
« Last Edit: 13 June, 2020, 05:36:38 PM by Dikappa » Logged
Dikappa
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Posts: 370


« Reply #125 on: 13 June, 2020, 05:50:17 PM »

You probably all think I fell asleep or something?  Past Corona real work more and more catches up with me...not a bad thing off course, but it limits Lambda time...although some things have been adressed meantime, like finisching the drawings for the windscreens, the laserwork has been ordered and will be ready sometime during the coming week.

Also this week John's regulator housing arrived in the mail, a very big THANK YOU for that!!!!!
So yesterday evening I just couldn't resist and set to fitting it.  I had to make a small fat aluminium adaptor plate for the modern regulator that was fitted inside the scintilla box, and rework some cables.  Also John's box turned out to be laid out for a smaller diameter generator housing, so I had to mildly adjust the diameter to get a good fit.
This morning fitted the houding and it looks much better!  The brass cover wll get some attention and painting later, to make it look even better.

I send the intruments to a restoration service, as this is something I really don't see myself bringing to a good end.  One of the zamac/mazak frames of the speedo appears to be in poor shape, and the dial of the rpm counter needs to bee sourced of replicated, so I fear this will be a costly affair....


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Dikappa
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Posts: 370


« Reply #126 on: 20 June, 2020, 03:50:40 PM »

Strugling a bit to find time to work on the Lambda, but this afternoon a little progres was made...
The laser cut parts to finish of the radiator surround reinforcement came in that seemed like an ideal small job.

Folowing the poll I finally decided to cut the desired holes in the 3mm plate, and then refitted it with the welded together angles pieces.  This pieces precisely fill up the space between the new reinforcement plate and the sides of the radiator frame, and I hope they thus help to transfer the forces induced by the supension directly into the reinforcement plate. (I had to cut the new plate less wide than the original one because due to it's rigidity I could not flex it to get it inside the radiator surround, thus it was 3mm away from the original sides)

Hope this makes sense, otherwise some pictures will hopefully do.

With everything in place and botded up the holes for the rivets were marked, and after removal drilled and countersunk.

All ready for a blast and paint now.

Also did some experimenting with the steel rivets and an air hammer, and decided this is not the way to go on an already painted car.  Next week I hope do build a home made hydraulic rivetting tool, watch this space!


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Dikappa
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Posts: 370


« Reply #127 on: 03 July, 2020, 08:02:07 PM »

Last week I found some time and decided it was time to tackle some mechanical jobs.
I already reconditioned the steering gear before, and filled it up with Penrite steering box lube, but as it was probe mounted in the car it soon became clear there were several leaks.  Talking (read: e-mailing....) about this to Iain Simpson in Australia he strongly advised to convert the housing to accept modern lip seals and to turn a groove into the big adjuster nut for an O-ring (indeed it was leaking there too...)

This turned out to be a rather straightforward turning job so I did as he suggested.  Last week friday I assembled it again, with loctite for the flanges and copper washers on both sides of the bolts (leaking even there!) and filled it up again.  We were out for the weekend and on my return I was very disapointed to find oil under the steering gear again!  Closer inspection learned that the now remaining leak was due to a fault in the casting where the lower positioning bolt is.  Instead of taking it apart again I decided to simply turn two grooves in the positioning bolt (which is an offset affair and non original anyway, and stop the leak with two additional O-rings there.

Also some work done in preparation of assembling the rear axle.  The shaft in the diff for the sattelites was worn out, and will be replaced by a piece of 25mm hardchromed bar.  Drilling the holes in it was rather adventourous using 'any material' stone drills, but it worked OK, and the same drills were used to drill out the holes in the new crown wheel to the desired 9mm (the later diff's use larger bolts)
I then still had to make the oil grooves in the shaft, on which the machinist advised: "just use an angle grinder and cut 'm in by hand."
Now that I found a bit crude so devised a way to get more control on the business: real metalworkers beware as this could be shocking images!!!!


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Mikenoangelo
Senior Member
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Posts: 161


« Reply #128 on: 03 July, 2020, 08:31:58 PM »

I once had to put a spiral oil groove in the vertical shaft which drives the overhead camshaft of a Brescia Bugatti. I mounted a small air powered grinder on the tool post of my lathe and set up the gearing of the lead screw of the lathe so as to get the correct mm per turn of the groove as the carriage was advanced. I put a handle on the lead screw and my wife turned that, which moved the carriage and through the gearing, rotated the chuck while I operated the grinder. Amazingly it worked, although we did not get quite as nice a result with the hardened steel shaft as I had when practicing on a piece of mild steel.

I did not take a picture of the method but here is the result, the new shaft at the top and the original below. I had to make the new shaft because a previous owner had hard chromed the the shaft above the gear to fit the bronze bush, thereby making it impossible to remove the worn out skew gear for the magneto drive cross shaft! I had to make a new bush and the driving dog at the top, both of which were oversize to fit the chromed shaft.

For me this is half the fun of restoring old things.

Mike


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« Last Edit: 04 July, 2020, 08:28:59 PM by Mikenoangelo » Logged
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