B10 clutch

[brian]

The b10 has a fairly weak clutch at best but I think it is slipping more than I remember. So before SPR I thought I would just check it over - expecting it to be full of oil from the front of the gearbox.
Once I had got it off and open I was surprised by a) how I had remembered quite well how to do it as it must have been 15-20yrs ago and b) how remarkably little oil was inside.
The plate does not look very worn. The faces are a little crazed and discoloured, presumably from the XS heat and there is quite a lot of black sticky dust but no free oil at all.
The springs are all intact and measure 52.4mm.

So:
1. Are the springs about the right length (I have no w/shop manual to check)
2. Is not, are there any out there?
3. How can one check that the metal faces have not worn too much?
4. If above seem OK, do I just de-grease plate and reassemble?

Advice gratefully received as I am keen to have a hopefully stress-free outing in May/June to the Ardennes!

PS
Aprilia back and going well but still no Augusta!

[simonandjuliet]

I think that I have some springs and I definitely have a new pressure plate that I can measure if you wish (or you could make me an offer for it....!)

[chriswgawne]

Brian,
Whenever I have had an Aurelia clutch problem on a trip when a quick fix is needed by the side of the road, if my clutch springs seem a little suspect or if the plate is a little worn I am not averse to fitting 'penny washers' under the springs as a quick fix. Not very scientific but quite quick and easy to do as long as the springs still have some travel in them. .
I am not sure whether there is any data out there as to clutch inner and outer spring length when new.
Chris

[lancialulu]

Brian

No data in Paul Mayo manual for S1 Clutch!!

Just say 9 inner and 9 outer.

Re springs it is important to test the length under load. Fro example S2 length should be 38.5 under load (which is model dependant but is in the order of 31kg for an outer).

Best check if any are soft and also heat weakened. I am suspect Omicron may help with springs - Cavillitto has a set on his website but these look S2.

Tim

[brian]

Thanks for info.
I did put a steel ring under the Augusta spring to beef it up (this was before new ones were made) and it was working well but during my rebuild (broken big end bolt) I have used the remanufactured one.
B10 info seems generally in short supply!!
Brian

[Niels Jonassen]

Be aware that the plate may have become slightly concave, so that it only binds on the outer half. My B20 clutch was slipping badly. Grinding the plate flat cured the problem.

[brian]

3 years on and the clutch is beginning to slip a bit and the bite point is very near the top of pedal travel.
Is there anybody out there that can tell me on TAV 26:
a) the thickness of the inner surface to outer on part 36 as my inner surfaces show effect of heat
b) the thickness of part 8 + the 2 linings part 20
6) the thickness of part 7.

Also if I reline it, does the material matter?

Obviously if anybody has a new clutch I might be interested!!!

Brian

[chriswgawne]

Brian,
I have a correct surplus brand new clutch plate here in Sunningdale ex Cavalitto together with a set of linings. I have also emailed you.
Chris

[brian]

Disc in,I think, the right way round ie the more prominent splined centre facing the top when replacing the flat plate into the dished one, the forks sitting nicely in the release bush and the drive splines engaged so wheels turn when prop shaft turned. Studs in line and started, SO:
Why can I not get the last 1cm gap between the cover and the front of the couch closed? Tried everything from a rubber hammer to prayer!!
What have I missed?
Tim Heath would have liked car for comparison article by a Car Mag - but he can use his B12 so not urgent but I fancy a drive in the final nice days of the year

[Jaydub]

Brian I know nothing of Aurelia Clutches, but almost every one I have fitted in my 55 years in the motor trade, I fit the flat side facing the flywheel and the protruding part of the driven plate goes into the spring cover. That maybe why you cannot tighten it down fully. I stand to be corrected if I am wrong.

John

[brian]

The problem with the Aurelia is that the clutch is mounted in front of the rear gearbox/diff unit with plate housed between 2 faces in a circular iron box and a release collar activated by a fork. Flywheel at front of car.
I agree could be plate is wrong way round but I thought that the more prominent collar stopped the plate seating nicely against what is the front surface when I was reassembling it.
If no other options come to light I will disassemble unit and flip over plate.

Good news - the Aprilia fuel gauge is now working thanks to Dave Gee and I managed to go 50 miles without stopping so perhaps odd cutting out problem I had on SPR was the ignition/light switch which I replaced with a spare Augusta one I had.

[chriswgawne]

Brian,
I have found that the relative position of the clutch operating arm and thrust bearing carrier is critical - I usually use the arm to 'pull in' the last 20mm or so of travel of the clutch assembly tight up to the transaxle.
Also this last bit of travel can't take place if the clutch plate itself isnt dead central as the very end of the transaxle input shaft needs to enter a precise locating cavity in the clutch.
Hope this helps.
Chris