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Author Topic: Report on (slow) S2 Coupe rebuild progress  (Read 66195 times)
0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.
andyps
Senior Member
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Posts: 176


« Reply #690 on: 24 November, 2020, 12:21:11 PM »

I think I definitely need to open my oil canister. I've got a spare actually so will probably do that one and fit it to the car, and then do the other at a later stage. Certainly doesn't look like it is worth chancing as my engine had been stood a lot longer than yours, although was started a few times just before I got the car and I have run it a little.

I put a relatively cheap 10/40 oil (Halfords semi-synthethic) in mine and plan to change it after a few hundred miles when it should have flushed anything out.
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nthomas1
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Posts: 709



« Reply #691 on: 24 November, 2020, 07:58:22 PM »

Not such a good day today.  Started filling the cooling system only to watch it leaking from the radiator. Fortunately I had a bowl ready so caught most of it.  Hard to see exactly where the leak is but it's definitely not one of the hose junctions.  I had it pressure tested abut 12 months ago and it was deemed to be good at that stage.  Looks like I might be heading for a re-core.
« Last Edit: 24 November, 2020, 11:09:58 PM by nthomas1 » Logged

Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
nthomas1
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Posts: 709



« Reply #692 on: 25 November, 2020, 12:17:57 PM »


I would appreciate some more advice!

I pulled the radiator out this morning ready to take it back to the specialist.  That's made me wonder whether any of the related devices should be inspected and/or replaced:
- Thermostat
- Water temperature sender
- Fan thermoswitch from bottom of radiator

I have removed the temperature sender and cleaned it, but is there anything else I can check on these three devices, or does it make sense to just replace them?  I don't know how much you can tell from a visual inspection.  When I bought the car a cardboard box that came with it contained a used thermostat suggesting that a new one had been fitted.

Another question is: with the radiator out, I now have good access to the alternator.  Does it make sense to strip, inspect and clean it?

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Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
fay66
Permanent resident
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Posts: 5888



« Reply #693 on: 25 November, 2020, 03:02:37 PM »


I would appreciate some more advice!

I pulled the radiator out this morning ready to take it back to the specialist.  That's made me wonder whether any of the related devices should be inspected and/or replaced:
- Thermostat
- Water temperature sender
- Fan thermoswitch from bottom of radiator

I have removed the temperature sender and cleaned it, but is there anything else I can check on these three devices, or does it make sense to just replace them?  I don't know how much you can tell from a visual inspection.  When I bought the car a cardboard box that came with it contained a used thermostat suggesting that a new one had been fitted.

Another question is: with the radiator out, I now have good access to the alternator.  Does it make sense to strip, inspect and clean it?


Norman,
If it ain't broke dont fix it!
I'm very wary about thermostats, having bought 2 at £60 each that caused me no end of problems, eventually after a considerable time, I realised there was no bleed hole, drilling 1/16th" bleed hole instantly cured my problems.
I also believe that  in the early 2000's a duff batch were made that has a restricted flow rate.
Brian
8227 Cool
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
Dedra Technical Adviser
nistri
Megaposter
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Posts: 338


« Reply #694 on: 25 November, 2020, 04:21:40 PM »

My own view is to check at least the alternator brushes, the inline fuseholder (near the horns) before the fan switch, the thermostat in a container with hot water to see it opens correctly ideally at 85 degrees, the water temp sender (remove one lead and place it to ground and watch the dial for max temp). It is a fact that aftermarket thremostats are still around (from Peugeot engines) and have a much small water flow unlike the original Savara ones, Andrea
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Andrea Nistri

Ardea S2
Appia S2
Fulvia GTE
Fulvia Sport 1.3 S
Fulvia Montecarlo
Fulvia Coupe 1.3 S
Derek Creasy
Member
**
Posts: 12



« Reply #695 on: 25 November, 2020, 04:55:35 PM »

Total respect and admiration for everything you have done especially given your limitations . My restorations have been very much easier by comparison having  a reasonably decent close workshop  ; but they still they took much longer than they should have --- Well done .
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2000HF Coupe 1972
Fulvia Sport  1.3S   1968
nthomas1
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Posts: 709



« Reply #696 on: 26 November, 2020, 07:14:26 PM »

Thank you Brian and Andrea for your suggestions, and Derek for your comments.  With regard to limitations, Iím finally planning to get electricity to the garage having at last got agreement to running cables under communal paths.  About 5 years too late, but better late than never!

Iíll angle more towards Brianís ďif it ainít broke donít fix itĒ philosophy.  Iíve cleaned the temperature sensor, and Iíve tested the thermostat and found that it works fine.  I found the old thermostat that came with the car and tested that and found that it didnít open.  Interesting to compare the two.  I had already replaced the in-line fuse in the radiator fan electrical feed and checked that the fan was working.  Iíll leave the alternator alone for the moment.  With the practice Iíve had Iím now able to remove air box, fan and radiator fairly quickly so am not so worried now about accessibility of the alternator for future maintenance.

Had a closer look at the radiator now that itís out of the car.  Part-filled it and was able to see the fluid escape.  The fins seem dry and it looks like the problem is with a seam in the lower box.  Iíll see what the specialist has to say.  Thereís a vapour blast facility close by the rad specialist so Iíve taken the cam cover off and will have that treated at the same time as the rad is being worked on.  Nice to see the valve gear for the first time.

The two long bolts holding the radiator to the subframe are different.  The left had one in the picture, 84mm overall length,  is correct.  The other sticks out a long way below the car and has no hole for the split pin.  If anybody has a spare one for sale, or even the complete fastener assembly with sleeve, rubber mounts and nut, Iíd be interested in buying it.

Final job today was fine tuning the driverís door to even up the gaps.  Vertical position was about right, but the door needed moving forward a few millimetres.   I found that putting tape on the hinges and marking position of the door helped see the effect of any adjustments made.  To move the door to the right I would leave the bottom hinge fastened and loosen off the bolts in the top hinge.  That allowed the trailing end of the door to be lifted slightly, thereby moving the top of the leading edge forward, using the pencil marks on the tape to judge the extent of movement.  I then fastened one bolt in the top hinge, and repeated the adjustment process this time loosening the lower hinge and lowering the trailing edge of the door to move the lower leading edge forward, again using the marks on the tape to judge the amount of movement. Doing this a couple of times I achieved the result I was looking for. The final step was adjusting the striker plate on the door jamb so that it aligned with the door lock prong.

I can now trim the door (window winder, lock mechanism, door trim card, arm rest, door-open strap, trailing light) which will finish the interior work on the car.


* a Radiator.png (825.19 KB, 850x462 - viewed 3 times.)

* b Thermostats - new & old.png (669.39 KB, 850x457 - viewed 2 times.)

* c Cam Cover.png (867.09 KB, 964x503 - viewed 5 times.)

* d Door Fine Tuning.png (615.94 KB, 850x501 - viewed 2 times.)

* e - Door adjustment.png (695.17 KB, 907x452 - viewed 4 times.)
« Last Edit: 26 November, 2020, 08:29:38 PM by nthomas1 » Logged

Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
davidwheeler
Permanent resident
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Posts: 1156



« Reply #697 on: 26 November, 2020, 11:22:12 PM »

Re. radiator bolt I would think two minutes with hacksaw and file would sort it.  Then use a nyloc nut if you cannot drill the split pin hole.    You can take originality too far you know!
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David Wheeler.  Lambdas, Aprilia, Fulvia Sport.(formerly Appia and Thema as well).
nthomas1
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Posts: 709



« Reply #698 on: 26 November, 2020, 11:51:07 PM »

Re. radiator bolt I would think two minutes with hacksaw and file would sort it.  Then use a nyloc nut if you cannot drill the split pin hole.    You can take originality too far you know!

Point taken! I assumed the bolt would have been hardened such that it would be too difficult to cut through. Iíll give it a try.
« Last Edit: 27 November, 2020, 09:00:51 AM by nthomas1 » Logged

Norm Thomas
Ormskirk, Lancashire

Own:
1973 Fulvia S2 Coupe
Various modern cars
Previous Lancias: S2 Coupe and S3 Coupe in late 1970s
dhla40
Senior Member
*****
Posts: 125


« Reply #699 on: 27 November, 2020, 08:55:28 AM »

The radiator bottom tank leak is caused by the steel mounting bracket corroding and pulling its spot welds(?) away from the brass tank.  To fix mine I had to remove the bracket and solder brass plates over the many holes in the tank. A bit of a pain to be honest, probably best to find a better rad.

Sean
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1976 1.3s coupe
1973 1.3s coupe
1982 montecarlo project
1976 alfa GT
1981 alfa spider
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