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Author Topic: Y10 boot corner rust  (Read 1440 times)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #30 on: 07 June, 2018, 06:26:06 PM »

Unfortunately on a Y10 the back corner of the boot is within 12" of the rear seat belt mounts. Better safe than sorry.

Today I got the main plate tacked in for the OSR corner but tomorrow I disappear to Wales to play 17th century for five weeks so there will be no more progress for a while.


* OSR main plate tacked in (Small).jpg (50.25 KB, 480x480 - viewed 152 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #31 on: 08 June, 2018, 09:46:40 AM »


Any lessons for the rest of us?

(The Lancia, not the trip back to the C17th)
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #32 on: 08 June, 2018, 12:29:15 PM »

Two things come to mind.

 Welding seems to need lots of practice, and I need plenty more still. However once you can fill in the holes you've blown without making even bigger holes then you are on your way doing something useful.

The other thing to remember is that your car started out as flat sheets of metal and can be remade from the same. You can't replicate a complex pressing in one go but you can resolve it into a series of simpler parts that you can then be joined together.

Do I hear the sound of grandmothers sucking eggs?

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DavidLaver
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« Reply #33 on: 08 June, 2018, 03:20:26 PM »


I like the "once you can fill in the holes you've blown without making even bigger holes"...



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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #34 on: 21 July, 2018, 08:06:13 PM »

My trip back to the 17th century has been completed with a thatched roof removed from a barn and a new stone roof built. Now I have taken up my welding torch and progress is being made once again on the Y 10. The off side rear corner is complete internally and the inner wing is completed (don't worry about the funky shape of the big patch as it was just an off cut and most of it was cut away once welded. The outer panel will be easiest done in two stages because of all the curves and the first bit is in place. If I don't get distracted by the Grand Prix tomorrow I may even complete the welding. An appearance at this year's LMC rally may be on the cards.


* RHS inner arch patch 1 (Small).jpg (43.01 KB, 480x480 - viewed 122 times.)

* RHS inner arch patch 2 (Small).jpg (29.03 KB, 360x480 - viewed 124 times.)

* RHS inner arch patch 3 (Small).jpg (47.88 KB, 640x480 - viewed 126 times.)
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #35 on: 23 July, 2018, 08:13:39 AM »

Looking good!
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #36 on: 23 July, 2018, 06:56:58 PM »

The welding is completed (well, I've given up trying to make it any better) and it's into the filler and primer stage. Things are looking hopeful for the AGM but I will loose several days going to Caerphilly for a wedding. Whilst the filler was setting I got onto the back bumper with Maguires Ultimate Black. I forgot to take a "before" picture so a shot of the front bumper will have to do for comparison.


* OSR first filled and primed (Small).jpg (51.19 KB, 640x480 - viewed 108 times.)

* front bumper pre cleaning (Small).jpg (47.42 KB, 640x480 - viewed 112 times.)

* rear bumper polished (Small).jpg (57.72 KB, 640x480 - viewed 110 times.)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #37 on: 24 July, 2018, 07:14:35 PM »

Having done a first fill and prime yesterday I am working through the process of successive filling, priming, revealer mist coat of matt black, sanding and filling again. Hopefully this is the last fill before I go to colour coast. In between times I have used tigerseal to seam seal the joints inside the boot.


* OSR revealer coat.jpg (83.73 KB, 1044x783 - viewed 22 times.)

* revealer coat sanded.jpg (85.79 KB, 1044x783 - viewed 19 times.)

* second filling.jpg (81.14 KB, 1044x783 - viewed 21 times.)

* And yet another fill.jpg (70.89 KB, 1044x783 - viewed 26 times.)

* Tigersealed inside boot (Small).jpg (44.6 KB, 640x480 - viewed 95 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #38 on: 25 July, 2018, 11:50:59 AM »


Looking good. 

Any lessons for next time?
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #39 on: 25 July, 2018, 09:33:45 PM »

Don't ignore damp in the back of a Y10! I heard all sorts of theories including condensation when the floor in the back cools over the hot exhaust. A lesson I will apply is to form some sort of liner in the rear arches behind the back wheels.
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #40 on: 30 July, 2018, 06:02:31 PM »

I started getting colour on today. It always looks great just after you spray but tends not to last once you start rubbing down and cutting back. That's when the blemishes show up for me. If the rain holds off I will continue to add coats.


* IMG_20180730_175218000.jpg (65.18 KB, 868x651 - viewed 15 times.)

* IMG_20180730_183614908.jpg (44.71 KB, 868x651 - viewed 16 times.)
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frankxhv773t
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« Reply #41 on: 31 July, 2018, 07:15:16 PM »

I have an MOT booked for Thursday so reassembly and recommissioning is going on. My brake fluid was up to 1.5% moisture content so my trusty easybleed has been out to replace the brake fluid. I have also found a split steering ball joint gaiter so that will need changing too and the fan isn't cutting in so a new sender seems to be on the menu. I hope too much more doesn't show up.


* Brake fluid change 1.jpg (69.66 KB, 868x651 - viewed 19 times.)

* Brake fluid change 2.jpg (81.03 KB, 868x651 - viewed 19 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #42 on: 01 August, 2018, 05:58:31 PM »


Having now done some mechanical work can you even find the paint faults that bothered you just after you'd done it? 
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #43 on: 01 August, 2018, 09:14:55 PM »

In a word, yes. However it's a workaday car with lots of things wrong with it so it isn't an issue. Today I have painted the rear panel black (I thought I had some satin but only had gloss which will do for now) and started fitting up the rear end. One of the headlights was misted up but I find a few minutes sucking air through it with a hoover dries it out nicely. Another headlamp issue on Y10s is that the trim between the bottom of the headlight and the bumper doesn't stay in place and disappears under the light. To keep it in place I add a small self tapping screw through its' inner end.


* black rear panel and fitting up.jpg (132.25 KB, 868x651 - viewed 20 times.)

* demisting headlamp.jpg (96.07 KB, 868x651 - viewed 16 times.)

* headlamp lower trim retainer.jpg (93.22 KB, 868x651 - viewed 21 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #44 on: 01 August, 2018, 09:40:57 PM »


Interesting to see (I assume) "wires" printed on the inside of the rear lights.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
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