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Author Topic: Y10 boot corner rust  (Read 860 times)
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frankxhv773t
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« on: 17 May, 2018, 10:14:55 AM »

Following six months of not being able to work on Lancias due to mental incapacity and other commitments it is time to get one of my Lancias back on the road. The Y10 is the most useful everyday car so it is up first. Y10s are prone to damp under the floor mat in the boot and consequent condensation internal misting up. Over the years theories have been bandied about ranging from leaking rear washer unions to condensation caused by the exhaust heating the floor. I'm pretty sure in virtually every case it will be the dreaded rot even if you can't see anything amiss. This is what is left of the rear corners of my apparently tidy Y10. A rebuild is underway involving extensive use of CAD technology (Cardboard Aided Design).


* IMG_2033 (Small).JPG (76.11 KB, 720x480 - viewed 174 times.)

* IMG_2036 (Small).JPG (73.12 KB, 720x480 - viewed 172 times.)

* May 2018 beginning of repairs 3 (Small).jpg (1073.78 KB, 640x480 - viewed 204 times.)

* May 2018 beginning of repairs 4 (Small).jpg (1066.83 KB, 640x480 - viewed 202 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #1 on: 17 May, 2018, 01:10:25 PM »


Whatever the cause the solution is the same...

Keep the photos coming - and hope you can hear me cheering you on.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
DavidLaver
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« Reply #2 on: 17 May, 2018, 01:11:33 PM »


"Every half hour done is a half hour less to do".

Fingers crossed for long warm evenings and clear dry weekends when you need them...
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #3 on: 18 May, 2018, 05:29:06 PM »

Chopping out has begun. It's a devilishly complicated conjunction of panels.


* IMG_2041 (Small).JPG (84.63 KB, 720x480 - viewed 155 times.)

* IMG_2046 (Small).JPG (76.59 KB, 720x480 - viewed 157 times.)
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lancianut666
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Slow but rough


« Reply #4 on: 19 May, 2018, 09:57:22 AM »

Lovely!!!
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Fulvia Coupe S2 Flavia Coupe 1967 1.8 Kugelfischer Prisma 1.6 carb Y10 Fila Y10 Touring Dedra 1.8 Dedra 2.0 Turbo Appia S1
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #5 on: 21 May, 2018, 05:29:53 PM »

Over the weekend cardboard aided design continued, some patches were cut and today I started to dial in my welding. The seam at the bottom is where I ended up which I think will do. The challenge is to repeat it consistently.


* Cardboard aided design (Small).JPG (110.31 KB, 720x480 - viewed 138 times.)

* Getting the knack of welding again (Small).JPG (96.09 KB, 720x480 - viewed 140 times.)
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lancialulu
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« Reply #6 on: 21 May, 2018, 06:14:56 PM »

I wish I could weld like that!
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #7 on: 22 May, 2018, 08:04:25 AM »


Some funky curves.  What are you using to cut?
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #8 on: 22 May, 2018, 07:32:43 PM »

I'm using an electric jig-saw with a metal cutting blade for those bits David. I decided the lower part of the inner reinforcing moulding needed to come out to allow access to attach new metal behind. I now have patch 1 and patch 2 in place. Next that reinforcing moulding has to go back in.


* IMG_2041 (Small).JPG (84.63 KB, 720x480 - viewed 124 times.)

* a bit more cut out (Small).JPG (96.62 KB, 720x480 - viewed 122 times.)

* patch 1 (Small).JPG (88.19 KB, 720x480 - viewed 123 times.)

* patch 2 (Small).JPG (77.69 KB, 720x480 - viewed 122 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #9 on: 22 May, 2018, 10:18:22 PM »


Complicated...I expect very gratifying.

Looking good.  The sort of job that can only be done for the love of it.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #10 on: 23 May, 2018, 07:25:53 PM »

Here is a picture of the jig-saw and another of all the tools that are in service for this job. It takes rather a lot of clobber!

Today's work has seen the boot inner panel and the inner wing patched. It would be much more satisfying if I could get the knack of running consistent, even welds but hopefully practice makes perfect.


* 1 jigsaw (Small).JPG (117.1 KB, 720x480 - viewed 109 times.)

* 2 all the tools (Small).JPG (168.53 KB, 720x480 - viewed 111 times.)

* 3 closed off boor inner panel (Small).JPG (71.75 KB, 720x480 - viewed 108 times.)

* 4 closed off inner wing (Small).JPG (81.68 KB, 720x480 - viewed 108 times.)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #11 on: 23 May, 2018, 10:22:36 PM »


The thing with ugly welds is that you can always grind them back to something pretty...and if its still ugly add a bit more...(etc, etc, etc...)
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #12 on: 24 May, 2018, 08:17:23 AM »

Rain has stopped play this morning but I need to shop for more consumables.

I am trying to preserve the paint finish outside what will be covered by the rear lights. It occurs to me that there is so much steel in the back corner with all the different layers of panels coming together that the outer panel isn't really structural. That has made me think of gluing a cosmetic repair patch in place. Has anyone any thoughts on this?
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #13 on: 24 May, 2018, 10:23:41 AM »


I'd trust your instinct.  Go for it...

(if outside the MOT "must be seam welded" zone)

Saw Landrover Velars being built over the Easter holidays and its all that holds them together.  The surprise was that they've VERY similar to a Jaguar F-Pace, which is built in Solihull on the same line. 

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/welding-for-mot-whats-required.904/

There's a link to the regs in there, and discussion of seams and spots etc and what items you need to be 30cm away from.  Eg seat belt mounts.
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David Laver, Lewisham.
frankxhv773t
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« Reply #14 on: 24 May, 2018, 07:24:03 PM »

Thanks David, that makes things much clearer. Patches must be seam welded to restore continuous metal in the panel and spot welds (or substitute plug welds) used at original panel joints to preserve the same panel deformation characteristics and ensure proper performance of crumple zones.

I did do some work today by doing most of the work on a new bumper mounting bracket.



* CAD bumper support plate (Small).jpg (1122.7 KB, 640x480 - viewed 105 times.)
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