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Author Topic: Augusta special  (Read 30957 times)
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #90 on: 26 July, 2009, 10:24:19 PM »


Photos of the derusting process.  Have now got the dash top, scuttle top, and top half of the firewall done.   That's just about enough to get the zinc paint out for but am tempted to do the front flanks, engine bay, and nose piece first.

The supplier said to be sure I degreased properly, hence the tooth and washing up brushes.  I also rinse with water and a dish cloth before the rust killer goes on and on the final wipe down with kitchen paper the paper stays clean.   Could argue not really necessary, and tests on "fluffy" bits of the chassis have shown that just slapping it on the end result is all but the same but I do want it to last and the extra steps don't add all that much time.

Had a "daylight look at the early rad shell and it really doesn't want to fit.

David


* Tools.jpg (65.41 KB, 800x600 - viewed 207 times.)

* WireBrushing.jpg (40.82 KB, 800x600 - viewed 204 times.)

* Degrease.jpg (28.66 KB, 400x533 - viewed 237 times.)

* RustKiller.jpg (38.02 KB, 400x533 - viewed 233 times.)

* After.jpg (64.22 KB, 800x600 - viewed 228 times.)
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David Laver, Lewisham.
DavidLaver
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« Reply #91 on: 30 July, 2009, 08:35:30 PM »


Clutch peddle and brake master cylinder came off tonight.  The clutch peddle was a job of moments, the brake master a fiddle even without afloor or engine in the way.

The peddle shaft is well siezed: the clamp bolt on the bracket came out easily, the split pin came out easily from the collar that locates the brake peddle, but a big wallop didn't move the saft sideways at all.  Its dripping in WD40 and at least with the brake peddle moving on the shaft now and the clutch peddle removed its got a better chance to soak in.  The brake peddle will float a little left right so able to soak down both sides of that as well as in from the brake peddle end of the shaft.  WD40 and time hasn't failed me yet...

David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
donw
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« Reply #92 on: 30 July, 2009, 10:25:27 PM »

David

The best freeing agent I have found to be Coka Cola, 24 hours imersion derusts and frees almost anything.  Makes you wonder why anyone would drink the stuff!

Don.
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Don Williamson
Member 111 joined 26th July 1964
1917 Theta 2str
1926 Lambda torpedo
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1933 Belna coupe
fay66
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« Reply #93 on: 31 July, 2009, 12:11:39 AM »

Don,
Is that the original or does diet work as well Huh?

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
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rogerelias
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MY 1600HF IN HEARTBEAT GARAGE


« Reply #94 on: 31 July, 2009, 07:35:54 AM »

Diet coke is more suited to thin parts Roll Eyes
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #95 on: 31 July, 2009, 08:53:58 AM »


I looked at the picture of the handbrake - its just a button and a spring in the top.  Its still stuck so the next step is a dunking in cola.  I've got "derust bath concentrate" and also a small ultrasonic tank so they are the back up if the cola doesn't do it.  After that its snip the rod, hammer or drill out the button, and remake the parts.

The brake crossshaft needs a week of soaking before "special treatment".  Its only just occured to me that I could make a bath round it with gaffer tape and bits of milk carton for a coke soak.   Again, if it comes to it, a peddle cross shaft is just a shaft so no big deal to remake if I need to get brutal.

David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
fay66
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« Reply #96 on: 31 July, 2009, 10:52:48 AM »

Diet coke is more suited to thin parts Roll Eyes

Ha B----y Ha Grin

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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donw
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« Reply #97 on: 31 July, 2009, 11:59:56 AM »

Havnt tried Diet Coke but generally use out of date cans.

David if all else fails with the handbrake I have a "spare".

Don
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Don Williamson
Member 111 joined 26th July 1964
1917 Theta 2str
1926 Lambda torpedo
1930 Artena berlina
1933 Belna coupe
DavidLaver
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« Reply #98 on: 11 August, 2009, 09:28:49 AM »


Turned a corner - all the "front" metal has been brushed, cleaned, and two coats of rust killer.  Might get some zinc primer on it today.  The "back" being the conventional rails and cross members needs a noisy session with the angle grinder to clean up remains of welds and some jagged edges of floor pans etc before I start on that.   Its trickier shapes, harder to reach in, but from the small bits I've tried it shouldn't take all that long. 

How good will it be to look at a stripped and painted chassis?   Then the repairs...but isolated repairs...to an otherwise clean and good chassis that I've been over inch by inch.

David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
DavidLaver
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« Reply #99 on: 13 August, 2009, 01:11:29 PM »


Front "half" of the car is now painted in the zinc rich primer.

I'm not as cheery as I expected to be as the paint was so thick I wondered if a trowel might be more appropriate than a brush.  It was a pig to put on, a real slap-slap-slap race to keep anything of a wet edge and it couldn't be brushed out or tipped off or anything like so the surface is like a ploughed field. 

It also NOW turns out, in the cruel way it so often does, that putting the zinc paint over the rusteater was somewhat futile as the rust eating "Hydrate 80" electrically insulates the steel from the "Electrox" zinc rich primer.  I went looking for application tips on the web and stumbled on a forum response from Bilt Hamber than contradicted (my understanding of) their advice to me by phone some months prior.  For the Electrox to work you need bright metal with craters less than 5mm.  The Hydrate 80 will go onto rust or a brown/black surface but then may as well apply then apply over it a conventional (smooth flowing flat drying easy rubbing...) primer.

SO - the plan NOW for the chassis rails is to get some bright to show and apply Electrox.  The consolation is that the front is 99pct "top sides" that won't get regular damage and require the same rust "prevention" of the chassis.  "Containment" should be sufficient.

At least the Electrox is classed as a top coat which has me sleeping better - for all I prefered looking at the thin coat of satin black it had before.   I wonder if I'll be able to resist rubbing down and top coating what I've done at the front before attacking the chassis rails?   It would be quiet evening work, and would lift the spirits and recover it to (my) acceptable standard.

Photos to follow.

David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
DavidLaver
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« Reply #100 on: 13 August, 2009, 01:15:14 PM »


Common sense says to ignor the surface quality until after the welding is done and the new engine mounts and so on are fitted and THEN make a nice job of it with the dulux primer and top coat.  But what does "common sense" have to do with any of this?

David
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David Laver, Lewisham.
fay66
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« Reply #101 on: 13 August, 2009, 01:53:55 PM »

David,
What does "Common Sense" have to do with owning any Lancia!

Brian
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Own 1966 Fulvia 2C Berlina since 1997, back on road 11-1999.Known as "Fay"
1999 Suzuki Wagon R+ GL, now my daughters
2006 Renault Megane 1 5 Dci Sports Tourer
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DavidLaver
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« Reply #102 on: 02 September, 2009, 08:27:46 PM »


Am getting used to the front end in grey, helped by the paint looking a lot better for a second coat.   

I was able to resist the black gloss and instead have focused on the back end.   Several noisy hours with the angle grinder shifted the last of the twisted tin, stray bolts, clips for the loom etc. 

The castings where the handbrake cable terminates put up less of a fight than anticipated - one side unscrewed having ground the backs off (they are posh self tappers), the other side I punched out from the rear then hammered back the distortion.

One side rail exterior is now zinc grey applied to bright metal.  Much of the rest has had a quick once over with the rust eater almost as a holding coat as no idea when will get time to wire brush, sand, and paint.   Am also thinking that rust eater in the pits is better than rust.

A side effect of the work is that the less protrusions and the cleaner the finish the easier it is to imagine the rest of it.

David 
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David Laver, Lewisham.
DavidLaver
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« Reply #103 on: 02 October, 2009, 07:37:48 PM »


Nearly done with the derust and prime.  The "inside" of the chassis to finish, and yet to do anything in the footwells and under the dash but into the home straight now.

Also a lovely Bosch horn in the post and it sounds as good as it looks.  It reminded me of Road Runner being chased by Wile-E-Coyote.  It now has pride of place alongside the instruments in a display cabinet.

David


* GreyerAndGreyer.jpg (46 KB, 600x450 - viewed 222 times.)

* BackAxle.jpg (35.64 KB, 600x450 - viewed 220 times.)
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David Laver, Lewisham.
chugga boom
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« Reply #104 on: 03 October, 2009, 07:48:17 AM »

yep, definatly an improvement  Smiley looking good keep up the hard work
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1935 belna saloon
1935 augusta lusso
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1958 appia s2
1963 appia s3 
195? appia camioncino
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