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I am not sure where to put this. I normally put anything in the non members vehicles for sale section.

If wrong place, let me know and I'll repost.

Hope they are of interest and I  have no interest in the sleeps or the auction house.

https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic-auctions/2640-20-Apr-2024/5162~39-cmc,-1955,-lancia-d50

https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic-auctions/2640-20-Apr-2024/5162~42-autoart-millenium,-lancia,-1965,-fulvia,-16hf,-fanalone

https://angliacarauctions.co.uk/classic-auctions/2640-20-Apr-2024/5162~48-guy-allen,-3-x-limited-edition-prints- “safari”,-“fulvia”,-“abarth-595”,

Hello learned Lancia fans, my 1600HF has developed a slow LH and almost permanently on RH indicator flash. I suspect due to poor earthing in the circuit or flasher unit may need replacement.
Would anyone know where the relevant earths are to check in the circuit with a multimeter at hand.
Thanks in anticipation

Graham Thrower

Looks like the plug for SPAX in our newsletter has allowed me to get an order together for the replacement dampers...watch this space.
Clarkey

About this time a year ago my Fulvia arrived from Italy. I chose to buy a really good example that had been restored to a good standard so that I could concentrate on using it rather than fixing it. Due to delays at DVLA and life in general, it wasn't used until the end of August. Despite that I've clocked up 4500 miles since.

I knew I'd have to sort a few minor bits out as the car hadn't been used much, if at all, since its restoration. The test drive in Italy highlighting poor brakes and super heavy steering.

For those interested, I thought I'd list the bits and pieces I've done to the car/ had done. In imperfect order:

1.New battery with rubber mat under. Was supposed to have been done before delivery from Italy....
2. New spark plugs (2023) and leads. Lots if interference on the radio, so thought suppressed leads may help.
3. Fix interior light. Earth path blocked with paint. Took ages to sort this.
4. Dinitrol all cavities/ doors/ sills/ outriggers/ enclosed areas and under body. Schutz in wheel arches. Big messy job.
5. Replace N/S outer cv boot. Omicron did this during a day trip.
6. Brake servo (looks new) had a huge split in the rubber diaphragm. Omicron replaced this for me.
7. Steering idler was almost solid. The bushes had been replaced previously but were way too tight. Omicron fixed this the same time as the servo.
8. Whilst looking for the cause of the stiff steering the centre tie rod was replaced due to a stiff ball joint.
9. N/S track rod had two left hand threaded ball joints......so no adjustment was possible. Two new rod ends and another track rod adjuster sorted this. Then a trip to my local tyre place for alignment.
10. Soon after arrival from Italy, I changed the oil and filter. Also the coolant.
11. Replace all lamps with led types and led type flasher units as required. Classiccarleds.co.uk supplied.
12 Replace the door edge lamp holders to overcome a previous bodge.
13. Replace door speakers.
14. Fit bluetooth car stereo to enable music, phone and navigation instructions.
15. Replace tyres all round. Fitted Falkens. The high profile copes admirably with the potholed roads around here.
16. Fit retractable seat belts. Wasn't happy at all with the static belts.
17. Full service just completed ready for 2024. Oil, filter, air filter, gearbox oil, coolant, plugs etc.
18. New rear shocks fitted in Italy before delivery.
19. Recent job to remove the gearchange remote mechanism from the car and refurb it, reason being that the gear shift buzzes/ resonates at 3500 to 4000 revs. New bushes, grease seals, external return spring, plastic wedge in lower pivot fork, ring around ball. Very difficult, dirty job working on my back under the car in my drive. 80% sucessful as there is still a buzzing, albeit lesser and a bit different.
20. Fit hazard light circuit. New switch/ relay/ panel.
21. Clean fuse box/ Replace fuses.
22. General tidy of wiring, not that it was bad at all.
23. Have fitted 123 electronic ignition at Omicron.
24. Fit centre rear brake light.
25. Remove rear screen to attempt repair to heated screen....no luck. Filaments seem to have corroded/ burnt out adjacent to the aluminium border strip. Still looking for ideas as to how this can be repaired.
26. Replace charging regulator with a solid state type.
27. Improve door glass weather seal with much adjustment and fiddling. Add some neoprene rod inside the door seals to fill them out.

Have thoroughly enjoyed working on the car, almost as much as I love driving it!

Thanks to this community for much help and advice, Norm, Tim, Colin and Omicron imparticular.

Looking forward to another year of messing about.

Good job I bought a good one, eh?

There is a groove around the plug, I used the back edge of an old 6” steel rule to carefully lift the plugs. There was some corrosion which cleaned off easily with a small tube/thread brush.

As a reminder to all members , Rule 10 says :

10.   All forum members must show their real name within their profile.  Where usernames are pseudonyms and the user does not add their real name to their signature, their profile will have their name added to the Personal Text so that it shows up in the Profile summary to the left of their forum posts.

Same happened to me a few years ago with my Beta. Some cotton braided hose fitted in 2017 was shot by 2021. All replaced with Gates injection spec hose which will hopefully last much longer.

How do you withdraw the brass components with the O rings?

  Richard

The only plus to all this wet weather is that I’ve had plenty of time to work in the garage refurbishing some late PHH E3 Solex carburettors to replace the overly complicated solenoid equipped E2’s on our 1975 Coupe.

This is the first pair of Solex carbs I’ve rebuilt and I wanted to understand how they worked and setup as accurately as possible before installing.

I spent quite a bit of time tweaking floats and checking fuel levels and finally arrived at something I was happy with. Setting floats/fuel levels has been well covered in previous posts but I thought it might be helpful to share some ideas for checking accelerator pump operation as I didn’t find much info on the subject.

The original accelerator pumps were not fitted to carbs when I got them so I didn’t have any base settings to work from. That, plus my curiosity is my excuse for spending another wet day devising a way to measure the pumps output.

If you have replaced the diaphragm or rebuilt the carburettor this is a good way of checking the complete circuit and the exact quality of fuel delivered to each accelerator jet. If you decide not to go to the trouble of measuring the pump output, I think its still important to fill the float bowl with fuel and operate the accelerator pump several times, check for good output from each jet and check the brass plugs for leaks, three of the four plugs on my carbs leaked.

The pictures are fairly self explanatory, you simply replace the accelerator jet with the home made measuring device, two are required so that you can check delivery to both carb barrels at the same time.

They are made using 10ml syringe bodies, 4mm ID silicon vacuum hose (40mm long), bleed nipples (M6x1 x27mm long). 7mm lengths of the same silicon hose is pushed over the thread of the bleed nipples to form a seal against the top of the carburettor body.  A seal is also required under the bleed nipple to ensure fuel is diverted up into the syringe body.  I cut 2mm lengths from an imperial O Ring (3.53mm section) and dropped these into the accelerator jet locations before screwing in the bleed nipples. Care is needed positioning the O Ring material so it sits vertically in the location, one end seals the hole at the bottom where the accelerator jet would normally pass through into the carburettor barrel and the point of the bleed nipple bears against the other end.  I tried to gluing the O ring material to a flat ground on the bleed nipple but it would not remain attached when unscrewed. I abandoned that idea and opted to simply fish the short bits of O Ring material out later, they generally dropped out easily enough or could be fished out with a pin.

The bleed nipples don’t need to be much more than finger tight, perhaps a fraction of a turn with a small spanner but be very careful not to over tighten and damage thread or the body where the jet passes through!

The accelerator pump should deliver equal quantities of fuel to each barrel, if there is blockage in one circuit or accelerator jet, you will likely get twice the quantity of fuel delivered to the other.

The pump only operates over the first 30 degrees of throttle opening, the technical spec for the E3 carb has a value of 7-9cc for 20 strokes, so a max of 4.5cc per barrel.

Set the carburettor up in a vice or prop up level with the top cover and float removed. Fill the float bowl to the normal operating level and operate the throttle lever a few times to prime the syringe bodies. Make sure there is no fuel leaking into the barrels or where the bleed nipples screw into the carb body. A spare syringe with a length of hose is useful for sucking out and zeroing the syringes after priming. 20 consecutive partial operation of the throttle lever should nearly half fill each syringe body with fuel. 40 and you should still not have filled each syringe body.  Adjust the stroke of the accelerator pump arm to increase or decrease the quantity delivered. When I had finished checking both carbs, the lever movement was the same (4.5mm) although differing amounts of thread were showing on the lost-travel operating rod.

Leave the syringes full for perhaps 30 minutes and see if the level has changed to check the weighted ball valves are working correctly,  i.e. fuel is not draining back,  and to check the brass plugs for leaks. I replaced the plug seals on mine with some BS006 O Rings which did the job in the absence of the proper ‘D’ shaped seals. I had trouble with one ball valve, which was resolved with a careful clean with a small soft dremel brush twisted by hand.


Sorry, much longer rambling than intended, hopefully some useful info.

Looks nice Kevin.
Clarkey